Brake dash light???

HYBRIDT

New Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2001
The brake light in the dash isn't connected to the ECM in any way is it?? I just installed the SSBC big front disk kit and rear conversion kit. I got every thing installed and gravity bled the system. I forgot to do the rear e-brake adjustment before testing the brakes. I figured I'd need to pump the brakes a time or two to get the pistons against the pads. I pumped the brakes a few times and the light comes on in the dash. I remembered the e-brake procedure and you adjust the piston out by setting and releasing the e-brake. I did that a few times and soon the e-brake tightened up. The pedal firmed up nicely, but the brake light doesn't ever shut off. I put in a center console e-brake a while back and thought maybe my handle wasn't releasing all the way so I unhooked the wire in the drivers kick for the e-brake, but that doesn't shut it off either. WTF ???????? :confused:


Any help would be great,
Adam
 
The brake light is also actuated by a hydraulic switch in the proportioning valve. Are you still running a powermaster or have you switched to vacuum? If you have unequal pressures in the brake system front to rear the switch will trip, it's also wired into the powermaster if you have a low pressure condition present.
 
Brake Light

I just got done rebuilding the Master Cylinder and when I was bleeding the brakes I did it without clamping the proportioning valve. I now have the brake light coming on when pressing the brake pedal for a 1-3 seconds and then shutting off. Can this be a contributing cause for the light or do I need to look in another area.

Thank you.
 
Yeah, I went vacuum a while back. So the combination valve is the only thing in line that can trigger the light except the e-brake right? Should I re- bleed the brakes? would that help?

Adam
 
I'd try bleeding the brakes again (not gravity bleed). It's possible the prop valve got stuck and needs a light tap to free it up, get the brakes bled properly first and report back. Gravity bleeding gets a good bit of the air out, but not all. Have a helper in the car, and have them hold the pedal while you open the bleeders. Order to bleed them should be RR, LR, RF, LF for the best results. Let us know what happens.
 
Foot bleeding the whole system was the key. I bled the whole system with a air assisted vacuum style bleeder and that didn't do it either. Just came down to asking for help. Damn it I hate doing that ;) .

Adam

P.s. I bled them in the order you suggested, but in my repair manual it says RR,LF,LR and RF????
 
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