yes, good thing I opened it upJust noticed you have a stock cam chain tensioner on a double row timing chain...trouble waiting to happen...should only use that style tensioner on stock style chain...I learned the hard way....Enjoy
I actually have a TA performance 9-key silent single roller and will be using a new tensioner
My local machinist seems to be very knowledgeable and I also spoke with a couple GN owner from track that he has done work for and they all have had good results.Just ck with some people who Really KNOW what they are talking about....when I first started with these cars back in 95....the So Called specialists were far and In between ...take your time...learn the platform..
It's very finicky but a very good PowerPlant if you have the right machinist and support parts that work together(bigger is not always best...ie...stroker motor...sounds good but not necessary for the average power goals)...Be careful who you listen to
Plus I am also here to learn as much as possible to to double check things myself
verified clearances myself and yes very different then my Chevy engines, bearings just under .015"I had my first 109 block prepared by a Great Machinist on Fords, Chevys, and other brands....tolerance is totally different on these motors...mine blew up(knocking) before I really broke it in....just my .02...deal with a machinist knowledgeable in your Buick turbo motor
plus still keeping my fingers crossed lol
It didnt have the rope seal in the rear main, it had already been swapped.You can do away with the rope and use a washer to place over the rope seal openings and use Black High temp RTV until you see it start coming out the seams slightly and put your gasket and pan and won't get any more leaks...I have done it multiple times on engines I built for myself and others with stellar results
I am replacing it with the Rear main seal RJC sells and they highly recommend it, I have spoke to them quite a bit and is a big reason I have gone with so many parts from them.