Blowthrough build repeat.

[WarWagon]

This is the home thread for a 2019 version of my very budget blowthrough engine build/setup, this will supercede and replace the old (Slow blowthrough engine build) thread.
This will link up to the thread (Repeat procedure)

Starting with the finest over bored 109 block I could find within 100 miles on the east coast. I filled it up with my stock '79 turbo crankshaft and used but new to me TRW forged pistons on 2 dot rods with ARP bolts. Reused the 206 roller cam and 885 lifters again(still working great). I'm about to put the timing cover over this JPP timing set and install the oil pickup and oil pan to the block, both of those wear Cometic gaskets.
Next updates from me: the heads and valve train inatal along with some other nominal stuff.

 

[ek02]

Looks great. Should hold up well.

 

[WarWagon]

Thanks, this foundation has some of the best stuff I have.
I noticed that the deck has been cut some, I never measured it. Looks like Cometic head gaskets were last used. Deck was probably was cleaned up to run them.

 

[WarWagon]

I rebuilt these new to me rocker arms/shafts. That's probably not the right word as one just cleans everything and installs new button retainers. Cleaned up the oil hoses/fittings.
I bought a CAT brand aluminum/bronze distributor gear, it's nice and fits the shaft perfect but the supplied roll pin is undersized vs stock pin @ 3/16"
I'm going to pick up a new roll pin and drill the gear for 3/16" to fix that.
Installed my heads on RJC head gaskets and torqued with ARP studs. Added the entire valve train but stopped on valve covers when one of the gaskets is misplaced.
I'll have this finished up and ready to go back in my car this week.

 

[ek02]

Any way to adjust the preload on the 885 lifters? Mine seem to be the most quiet with zero lash with the engine hot.

 

[WarWagon]

Any way to adjust the preload on the 885 lifters? Mine seem to be the most quiet with zero lash with the engine hot.

I'm stuck with stock rockers still. Push rods are made for this block and rocker arm setup with valve springs package I have.

 

[WarWagon]

Got a little behind on progress this week but everything is close now.

 

[ShawnR]

 

[WarWagon]

That is a home made catch can out of a mini keg. The lifter valley and valve cover breathe into it.
Not long after the chain was removed tonight this engine came to life for 2019

 

[b4black]

I'm following this. I plan to go blow thru on my second car (once I just the first car back on the road).

Can you share the alternator bracket setup? That one part I'm not sure of.

 

[WarWagon]

Sure Rich, It's a stock steel '84 AIR pump/PS pump bracket with the top cut off. I made the alternator mount/pivot bracket on top of that out of two solid steel bushings. It has a random bolt and nut that fit the bushings and alternator case, has a slightly shortened Buick 455 slot adjuster on the back side by the head to lock in the adjustment.
I made it so you can still service the distributor/cap without removing anything around it.
I can get pictures on this for you when I get back home.

 

[WarWagon]

Friend stopped over and took a cold start video.

 

[WarWagon]

I've got some miles on the new engine and drained out the break-in oil/refilled crankcase. It is doing very well I'm happy with it(the engine). I can finish testing the FTS 9.5 torque converter that I put in about two years ago I only have limited data on it while having old engine problems.

Now I'm having the same kind of boost control problems as last year. Currently it's creeping boost, waste gate spring is 15 psi and boost hangs there for a bit then heads to 25psi and I lift. The current plumbing has the waste gate dump tube back into the down pipe and I believe venting it to atmosphere is going to solve this issue. I've done everything else you can do to correct this issue: new waste gate, new diaphragm, new vacuum block, rerouted all vacuum lines. This boost problem started after my original waste gate diaphragm ruptured.

 

[ShawnR]

I thought you couldn't go more than 10psi or so while blowing thru a carb without a box around it. I could have saved a whole bunch of $$ if that was the case.

Is the wastegate open but just not bleeding off enough boost, or is it not staying open/opening enough? I am considering an electronic boost controller so I can set it thru the MS3. I am hoping to be able to set up a switch for "normal mode" and "performance mode" with a higher boost level and map.

 

[WarWagon]

That (10-12psi) is nearly all a blown through Q-jet can handle. Not on my combo, this setup produces over 30psi of boost when the controller/waste gate work properly. This combo worked greatly for 5 years before my old waste gate diaphragm rupture.
I'm certain I have a flow problem through the waste gate, I have repaired exhaust crossover leaks and a lot more exhaust energy is going through everything now.
This waste gate is the same size as before when things worked properly.

 

[WarWagon]

This pix is the new(2018) waste gate body, I have just xxx street miles on it working out the boost issues. With this much heat discoloration I'm saying there is a plug down stream someplace.

 

[WarWagon]

Boost is back under control with a waste gate swap and relocation along with a dump tube. Currently set on 24lbs and doing very well.

 

[3.8na]

I'm stuck with stock rockers still. Push rods are made for this block and rocker arm setup with valve springs package I have.

Question regarding the adjustment of the lifter assembly. The stock girdle assembly requires no adjustment whatsoever to the valve lash? I.E. self adjusting? I've worked on some motors in the past like for crotch rockets that required a feeler gauge adjustment.

I once setup some sbc heads with oversized valve springs, pushrod guide plates, chrome molly pushrods and increased ratio true roller rockers. It was amazing how fast and far it would rev up.

Your car looks and sounds amazing .

 

[WarWagon]

Thanks sir. Production engines valve train is hydraulic, correct lash(preload)"in our case" is attained by proper length push rods contacting the rocker arms on the shafts when they are torqued down. Now one could get adjustable push rods and tailor the length as needed to achieve the preload you want.
Since I'm using non adjustable stock rocker arms the only adjustment I can make is in the length of the push rods. Now if I used adjustable roller rockers on this setup as the only change. I could gain or loose some preload by adjusting the cup on the rocker arms while the shafts are torqued and keep the same push rod.

 

[3.8na]

Awesome. Thank you.

Say, my wife just recently found a 1979 turbo buick complete car listed for 2k$.
Is this a deal, or pass?