Blown head gasket questions

26 timing is more than you prolly want but does not sound like the root cause to me. When it’s always blows the same cylinder, it’s fueling. Alky is fading. It always gets 1 and 2 cylinder first.
The alky TANK is huge problem.
That’s why so many cars IMO do fine on a dyno, then blow a head gasket on the track. The alky gets pulled away from the pick up on the track. The faster the car, the worse it is.
Need a different tank with the pick up in the rear.

Rick
the targeted afr and timing that was used cannot survive regardless of the fuel being used.the alky was not the issue
 
It always gets 1 and 2 cylinder first.
The alky TANK is huge problem.
That’s why so many cars IMO do fine on a dyno, then blow a head gasket on the track. The alky gets pulled away from the pick up on the track. The faster the car, the worse it is.
Need a different tank with the pick up in the rear.
ive been over 119mph in the 1/8 with my nt car and it has a stock tank,and has never hurt the number 1 cylinder,or leaned out ever.the dyno and real world are different.someone tuning a car on the edge on the dyno then trying to take that tune and appy it to the track or street is a major error in judgment trust me its not the alkys fault.
 
ive been over 119mph in the 1/8 with my nt car and it has a stock tank,and has never hurt the number 1 cylinder,or leaned out ever.the dyno and real world are different.someone tuning a car on the edge on the dyno then trying to take that tune and appy it to the track or street is a major error in judgment trust me its not the alkys fault.
Apply G force to a tank that is shaped opposite of what it should be and has the pick up on the wrong side and there is your difference between a dyno pull and a pull on the track. It’s very obvious but you gonna defend it. Not to mention it’s always the front cylinders..
Take a gas tank with a sump, flip it around and see how that works.
You seem like a smart guy, don’t be so narrow minded. Look at facts and use logic. It’s not random cylinders. It’s always the fronts. Those the only 2 getting high timing and lean AFR?
No
I’m not going to argue. Do want you want. It makes me no difference.
I’m out...

Rick
 
The alky tank must be totally full for each run! I know someone that has a dedicated tank filler. :) Something else to consider is hard launches and leaking out the cap.
 
These motors can handle 32° through 1st/2nd with very high quality Race Gas... Once it hits third better decrease it to 19/20*

Hi timing equals high cylinder pressures...

you want high timing down low as your building cylinder pressures but you want to drop off up top when the most load is on the motor.
 
These motors can handle 32° through 1st/2nd with very high quality Race Gas... Once it hits third better decrease it to 19/20*

Hi timing equals high cylinder pressures...

you want high timing down low as your building cylinder pressures but you want to drop off up top when the most load is on the motor.
[/QUOTE]

Agreed. It was nothing for me to run 28-32 degrees low gear timing with Erics 112 race chip and VP 112 race gas.
 
The alky tank must be totally full for each run! I know someone that has a dedicated tank filler. :) Something else to consider is hard launches and leaking out the cap.

Absolutely. Top the alky tank off after every run.
 
Look at facts and use logic.
He did. He saw that too much timing was being commanded in the program and too little fuel was being commanded.Which cylinders do you think needed 34 degrees of timing with 93 and alky?

don’t be so narrow minded.
I’m not going to argue.
Yah,you're not going to argue.

I’m out...
Of course you are. You declare something to be the absolute truth,dismiss the obvious evidence,call names,and declare the conversation to be over/settled science.
You argue like a Democrat.
 
I agree that the tank sucks. I only drive on the street but when I have less than 3/4 tank of alky and I get on it the low level light will come on.
Maybe if there was a way to baffle it it would help.
 
Apply G force to a tank that is shaped opposite of what it should be and has the pick up on the wrong side and there is your difference between a dyno pull and a pull on the track. It’s very obvious but you gonna defend it.
i have applied anywhere from 1.80 to 2.0+ Gs to the tank everytime the car leaves,thats wheels up and no problems with the tank.i log pressure on the pump.i have a few tricks to make it all work;) 1. is my pump is on the driver side and i extended the line coming off the tank several feet to hold more alky= no issues with pressure.i have a few more but just the line change will make a huge difference.i will put it this way i have scattered rear ends on the hit and never lost alky pressure
 
I kind of wish Metco still made the spare tire well tanks. I think they would be a good solution to the alky tank issues and the line was so long there was plenty of alky. Check valves in the line are also handy to keep alky from draining back or getting sucked out or pushed out until needed.
 
You seem like a smart guy, don’t be so narrow minded. Look at facts and use logic. It’s not random cylinders. It’s always the fronts.
thanks i think.rick i actually go based off the facts and consider myself a logic seeker.i have made 90+lbs/min and have not lost the number 1@2 and have sprayed over 50gph through the up pipe.if guys cant get there 15 to 25 gph into the motor without hurting it they need to do there homework.
 
I agree that the tank sucks. I only drive on the street but when I have less than 3/4 tank of alky and I get on it the low level light will come on.
Maybe if there was a way to baffle it it would help.
post 54 will solve your issue,i dont even use the low light indicator
 
That light is like the oil idiot light. It's way too late when it lights up.
 
would fuel cell foam in the tank help?
I have always wonder this too...I wonder if anyone has ever used/tried the foam baffle blocks summit sells for all types of fuel...in an aftermarket tank...rick's fuel tanks are very nice as well...
 
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