Best/ worst experiences with valve spring swap?

Has anyone made a video from start to finish of doing a valve job with the heads on Including the tools and each procedures of the work?
 
Has anyone made a video from start to finish of doing a valve job with the heads on Including the tools and each procedures of the work?
For valve springs::
Here is one:
And another from good ol'e Tom's Turbo Garage(@6m5s)

A "Valve Job" Is commonly referred as resurfacing the mating surfaces of the valve and valve seat which require to pull the heads off and remove the valves entirely.
 
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Has anyone made a video from start to finish of doing a valve job with the heads on Including the tools and each procedures of the work?
A valve job? You can't do a valve job with the heads on the car . But if you want to change springs there is several written instructions on the good ol internet . Here is one http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/valves.html
 
Went to do some springs on the car and had difficulty getting the first ones off. 212/212 flat tappet cam and ported irons billet 5858 turbo. So I pulled the heads and did them at the machine shop with new seals. Upon removal I discovered this....
20170709_082831.jpg

This car also got a TT alky chip, Intrepid Fans, and a FMIC all done at the same time. Can you imagine what the first strong 25psi pull could have resulted in. For this reason... I will deal with pulling the heads.
 
For valve springs::
Here is one:
And another from good ol'e Tom's Turbo Garage(@6m5s)

A "Valve Job" Is commonly referred as resurfacing the mating surfaces of the valve and valve seat which require to pull the heads off and remove the valves entirely.
The bottom video is porting the intake. He removed the egr port too.
 
For valve springs::
Here is one:
And another from good ol'e Tom's Turbo Garage(@6m5s)

A "Valve Job" Is commonly referred as resurfacing the mating surfaces of the valve and valve seat which require to pull the heads off and remove the valves entirely.

This video was informative, but do you still need a Valve Spring Height Micrometer to do a valve job since this video didn't shown that?
 
Seat/open pressure is an important performance aspect of spring installation. You simply have to take the writing on the box for granted, or you *may* end up doing it again, or worst . . . . .

To correctly install springs, you will need to know exactly how much the spring needs to be compressed to get the pressures you are shooting for on both sides of the operating conditions. I am sure there are Youtube videos explaining this, but still need springs that is tested. Of course, you can always perform testing after it's installed on the car, which will require add/remove shims each time . . . . . if you have the correct measuring equipment. Sounds like a PITA to me. :mad:

If I was doing this in the car, I would purchase a measured spring set from Bison. That will ensure you are making informed decisions on shims that will be needed based on installed height. (Not going to mention "engine oil for FT cam" and turn this thread into a 15 page what oil to use B*** session. :D )

Can you tell me more about a "measured spring set"?
 
Is this just a situation were some folks shim/ measure and others simply throw them in?



There's three different ways to do it....

One is to open the box and slap them in the car. With that method you have no idea what you have.

Second is to measure the spring installed height, shim to a specific number then trust the spring is dead nuts accurate (it won't be)


And third is to know what poundage you want on the seat and over the nose. When you have those numbers coupled with the cam lift(s) you can compute the spring rate. THEN you put the spring in a spring tester and find out what installed height gets you the numbers you want. Once you have that number you verify that you don't run into coil bind from having a weak spring that's not spec'd out correctly. The you take the installed height that the specific spring wants and shim accordingly.



Then you wonder to yourself how much the springs 'took a set' after you put a couple miles on them.
 
the 3rd option is the only correct way to do it. yes it takes awhile to get all the measurements but in the long run its the only way to go.
 
There's three different ways to do it....

One is to open the box and slap them in the car. With that method you have no idea what you have.

Second is to measure the spring installed height, shim to a specific number then trust the spring is dead nuts accurate (it won't be)


And third is to know what poundage you want on the seat and over the nose. When you have those numbers coupled with the cam lift(s) you can compute the spring rate. THEN you put the spring in a spring tester and find out what installed height gets you the numbers you want. Once you have that number you verify that you don't run into coil bind from having a weak spring that's not spec'd out correctly. The you take the installed height that the specific spring wants and shim accordingly.



Then you wonder to yourself how much the springs 'took a set' after you put a couple miles on them.

I agree. But, how do I know what poundage I want on the seat and over the nose? I'm new to all of this, I just know that, if my springs are stock (which is likely) they are probably really holding me back. I figured a swap to a stiffer set might really be helpful on the top end. I have never done this, that's why I started the thread... and it's pretty obvious to me that the compressed air method is better, for whatever reason... that's the most common method around here. So, that's exactly what I'll do... I'm here for direction and advice, I'll take all I can get of each, thanks!
 
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It would be nice and very informative if the "How To's" had a video section from replacing timing chain, rear end seals, valve job, and etcs.
The valve spring replacement video displayed in this thread, and this web site was was given, http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/valves.html was okay, but it still didn't explain or shown using anything of how to use a Valve Spring Height Micrometer, and a spring tester.
Just a thought
 
It would be nice and very informative if the "How To's" had a video section from replacing timing chain, rear end seals, valve job, and etcs.
The valve spring replacement video displayed in this thread, and this web site was was given, http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/valves.html was okay, but it still didn't explain or shown using anything of how to use a Valve Spring Height Micrometer, and a spring tester.
Just a thought
Right, I'll let a machine shop handle valve jobs, but if it's something like shimming valvesprings correctly, and I can do it at home, I'd love to learn how. Problem is, all I know about my cam is what the p.o. told me, and that's not guaranteed, but he's been honest about everything else to this point, so I have no reason to doubt it.
 
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