C
coach
Guest
I'm riding/ racing on Bilsteins now and my buddies are telling me its not transferring well. What are some nice shocks?
Thanks
Coach
Thanks
Coach
C
coach
Guest
I was thinking the singles. Is there a big difference in the doubles?
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
I agree 100% with your buddies, they are too stiff for the track, and for me too stiff even on the street.
Depending on tires and suspension, I would give you 2 choices.
With sticky drag tires, a 50/50 shock would be my choice, and that is what I have used for years with great success. They are not bad on the street either.
A little more street friendly would be a gas shock like a KYB. These type have worked well on many GN's I have done.
My opinion on QA1 shocks, I can, and have, killed GN's off the line with them. I have sold both the single and double action QA1's after I tried them, as my Summit Competition 50/50 cheap shocks work better.
Another area where owners figure "if I pay more or buy the expensive part, it will work better"!
C
coach
Guest
I agree 100% with your buddies, they are too stiff for the track, and for me too stiff even on the street.
Depending on tires and suspension, I would give you 2 choices.
With sticky drag tires, a 50/50 shock would be my choice, and that is what I have used for years with great success. They are not bad on the street either.
A little more street friendly would be a gas shock like a KYB. These type have worked well on many GN's I have done.
My opinion on QA1 shocks, I can, and have, killed GN's off the line with them. I have sold both the single and double action QA1's after I tried them, as my Summit Competition 50/50 cheap shocks work better.
Another area where owners figure "if I pay more or buy the expensive part, it will work better"!
Thanks Nick,
Right now my car has 2 inch drop spindles in the front and Bilsteins all around. It has a pretty good rake. The spindles are now for sale and the Bilsteins soon. I put them on when the car was pretty much stock, as upgrades. Now Im getting it moving faster and they are not cutting it.
I run all tubular chromoly trailing arms, HR bar, and MT ET's 275's. Im not going as fast as you, but I want it to leave better. With a good tail wind...a down hill track and a lotta luck, it might go 11.7's...
Thanks
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Sounds like you are on the right track!
Best thing to kill launch and 60' times are the drop spindles.
You can remove the front sway bar since you have a HR rear bar, and still have good street manners while improving your launch traction a lot.
Best thing to kill launch and 60' times are the drop spindles.
You can remove the front sway bar since you have a HR rear bar, and still have good street manners while improving your launch traction a lot.
Nick Micale said:Sounds like you are on the right track!
Best thing to kill launch and 60' times are the drop spindles.
You can remove the front sway bar since you have a HR rear bar, and still have good street manners while improving your launch traction a lot.
I was thinking that the drop would hurt the transfer, so, isn't it reasonable to say that the transfer could improve by changing the spindles back to stock as well?!? Just asking as I thought I'd read that the Bilsteins were a good choice for a mainly street car that occasionally visits the track??
C
coach
Guest
I just had a nice talk with my buddy Paul at HR Parts. He gave me a few tips and also said loose the spindles and remove the front sway bar. Im going back to the stock spindles and if anything...changing the front shocks for now. He also said that a huge killer is the stock rubber bushings in the upper housing ears. I swapped all the others but these...looks like its their turn to go.
Coach do yourself a favor and purchace the tool Paul sells to remove and install the upper rear end housing bushings, it takes about 10 minutes per bushing and you don't have to worry about breaking anything.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Actually I think the upper arm rubber bushings work better than poly?
In my case, and other track cars I do, those rubber bushings get replaced with a spherical joint.
Paul now offers upper arms with HD rod ends which also eliminates any bind in the factory 4 link set up.
C
coach
Guest
Im going with the spherical joint, in the upper housing ears too. Paul told me today since I am running his Extreme Duty bushings in the 3 other locations, that the 1 solid would be no big deal.
C
coach
Guest
One of you guys got a link to those bushings? I've found the joints for the arms but haven't found them for the ears yet.
I just called Paul and ordered them and the tool. If you buy them Charlie...dont get the tool. I'll send you mine.
One of you guys got a link to those bushings? I've found the joints for the arms but haven't found them for the ears yet.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=193
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
Wish I had seen this thread earlier, I could have saved you the cost of the tool. I have rented my tool to several members for cheap...The tool works great!!
Bryan
Good to know, I'll be contacting you when it's time for my tubuler installation.
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