ball joint... lowers too?

[ez at nova]

I have some pull to the left when I brake, and when teh car is jacked up, I can "wobble" the front wheels a bit and it makes a noise. So, I'm guessing it's the upper ball joints, since my car has 165,000 miles and they are the original ones. What are the chances I need to fool with the lowers too?

 

[salvageV6]

I would simply check the lower ball joint wear indicator to see if replacement might be necessary.

Those things actually work.

Assuming stock original ball joints.

 

[Glen]

If you have a 'pull' during braking, I would check your brakes. Any slop in the suspension or steering will cause problems 'always'. When checking steering linkage you can support one wheel, from under lower control arm, of car. Grap tire front and rear, 9 & 3 position, and shake/push left and right just slightly, without moving center link. Check for up and down movement of Idler arm, most noticeable at drag link end, tie rods can also be checked by compressing joint with large pair of Channel Lock pliers. Sqeeze at joint by grease fitting, if they compress, replace them. Any movement other than the direction you are moving wheel is slop. For checking ball joints, support one wheel from under lower control arm, beneath spring pocket is good, as close to lower ball joint as possible. Turn leading edge of wheel in or out, using long pry bar, place under center of wheel and lift up. Bad joint will show as movement between lower ball and spindle. You will see spindle lift up from lower control arm. For the upper ball joint, grasp tire at the 12 & 6 clock position and push in and out, a bad joint you can feel and see as excessive movement in and out. Don't confuse loose wheel bearings for bad joints. Loose bearings will feel loose in all directions. Bad joints will be detectable in the up and down movement only. Check ball joints in both in and out position relative to the front of tire. Sometimes they will only show loose in one direction and not the other. Lowers rarely fail unless you like to hit bumps and potholes at speed, alot.

 

[ez at nova]

Thanks Glen. Now I'm really confused!
When I had the car on jackstands, I was holding the wheel at about 3 and 9 and moving it back and forth, left and right that way and it was a bit sloppy. I don't know if I did any sort of up and down movement.
Argh, I wish I could take it somewhere where I could say "check out what's wrong with any joints, bushings, bearings, etc." I just don't think I trust any local places to do that correctly and honestly.
Oh, what else might I check as far as brakes? Rotors look clean, pads have plenty left, equal brake dust, no shimmying.

 

[Glen]

For the pull during braking, check caliper and hoses. For what these parts cost if they haven't been repalced in a long time, and they probably haven't, if ever, replace them. Now is a good time to upgrade the pads and hoses. For pads, I like Performance Friction's 'Z Rated' pads, ask for them by name. They can be gotten at Auto Zone. Russell makes braided hoses to fit, it helps firm up the pedal due to no balloning of the hoses. Calipers are dirt cheap, like $15- 20. If you are not an aggressive driver than you could probably just use the stock stuff. Go here to find a private garage for repairs you can't handle. Top right corner, enter your zip code hit go. A list of independent AC Delco Service Centers will come up http://www.acdelco.com/html/index.htm#

 

[machinegun]

This will help you with your bakes system.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/brakecalipers.htm

 

[machinegun]

Get a friend to help but put hands at 12 and 6. Move back and forth. Any excessive play can usually be seen. This will help check wheel bearing and upper lower ball joint. Once this is done then use a pry bar between the upper CA and spindle and Lower CA and spindle. Move up and down and side to side. If any play there then these need replacing. Grab wheel at 3 and 9. Now have friend look for loose inner and outer tie rod ends pittman arm and drag link joints. If any of these are dry or the dust sheilds are gone, you will probably have a problem. Look close as it does not take much to give issues. However the pulling on the brakes follow my first post here.