BAER Brake Install

scot w.

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Feb 19, 2005
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In this "In-Car" video of our quickest pass we went from 0 - 74mph and back to 0mph in only 9.70 seconds. This was with a terrible track due to all the street tires as seen in the launch I had to ease it off the line and when I stomped on it the car still spun.. I know with a better track I could better that time....

 

TurboDave

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Nice run Scot!!! I can't figure out why they use that left lane though, with that huge "ditch" right at the finish line!! The right lane has that ditch filled in and there wouldn't be such a huge jolt to the suspension right at the line!!
 

scot w.

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Nice run Scot!!! I can't figure out why they use that left lane though, with that huge "ditch" right at the finish line!! The right lane has that ditch filled in and there wouldn't be such a huge jolt to the suspension right at the line!!
Thanks! I totally agree and the track owner even recommended the right lane to Bill but he still chose the left like last year. I think the reason is because if something were to happen it's further away from the spectators that were lined up along the fence/guardrail on the right..At least that's all I can think of...

Your right that is one hell of a jar from inside the car!! It literally feels like the suspension is going to come out from under the car, that's just another testament on how well these suspension components hold up!! ;)



Scot W.
 

TurboDave

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I didn't see Bill making a run. Maybe next year somebody needs to take him for a full boogy run down that lane and jamb on the brakes at the finish line and show him what's going on.
 

scot w.

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He made several passes but they were more like kamikaze passes!! LOL
I just got word that all three of my passes were inside the 40' box each time and that my top speed was 74mph and I know I could have done better had I more seat time and a better track surface.. Each pass improved greatly but I am still happy the car went 0-74-0 in 9.70 seconds!! :)


SW.
 

Big Mike

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Great Write up!!

I am in the process of doing the same to my car but I am having problems on finding out if there is a kit that will work with my rear c-clip eliminators and larger axels.

Thanks for your write up again!
 

butch2000

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Very nice , I wish to do the same , what are the measurements for the rear flange on the housing , I have looked at bear , and willwood , and they want to know that info before ordering ? I don't want to take it all apart to measure it ?
 

rmar

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Very nice , I wish to do the same , what are the measurements for the rear flange on the housing , I have looked at bear , and willwood , and they want to know that info before ordering ? I don't want to take it all apart to measure it ?

If you order thru GNS Baer should already know exactly what you need for a stock set-up. I just received mine yesterday. By the way, they look incredible and I know they will work even better.
So Baer has the info.




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scot w.

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Feb 19, 2005
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Very nice , I wish to do the same , what are the measurements for the rear flange on the housing , I have looked at bear , and willwood , and they want to know that info before ordering ? I don't want to take it all apart to measure it ?
There is no need to measure your rear flange, BAER does not need that info if your using the stock axle but willwood always does.... All BAER needs to know is what axle your using so they know how to make the kit so it adapts to that axle. If you order through us you TB.com members receive FREE SHIPPING on all BAER brake set ups!!


.
 

Roger

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I put 12" Baer front only (wanted to keep stock original 15" TType wheels - did have to use 84/85 GN wheels with paint removed) on the TType years ago. Didn't even have to do a complete bleed of the system. Took less than an hour for each side.

Very happy with the 12" Baer conversion, have never experienced brake fade even with hard street driving & have pulled a trailer. Did upgrade to 84/85 hydro-boost.
 

scot w.

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Feb 19, 2005
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Great Write up!!

I am in the process of doing the same to my car but I am having problems on finding out if there is a kit that will work with my rear c-clip eliminators and larger axels.

Thanks for your write up again!
Thanks Mike!
There definitely is a kit that eliminates the C-clips in our stock rear ends and still works with the BAER brakes. Just sold a kit to a customer last week...
 

Howling Mad

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Read through this thread and didn't see it mentioned, but did you change your studs when installing these?
 

Howling Mad

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How much of the stud is sticking out? I ask be cause I bought my wheels with the plan on going to disk in the future and don't want to buy and change studs twice lol. Thanks for the info Scot
 

scot w.

GNSperformance.com
Feb 19, 2005
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How much of the stud is sticking out? I ask be cause I bought my wheels with the plan on going to disk in the future and don't want to buy and change studs twice lol. Thanks for the info Scot
Well, when you order BAER brakes through me they will come with a new modified stock spindle which has new studs already on it so your go to go there and in the rear your simply removing your axles to install the rear disc's and the rear rotor where the studs stick through are not any thicker than the stock drum so your original studs should still work fine, they did on my car!
 

camvet67

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Jul 25, 2013
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Well, when you order BAER brakes through me they will come with a new modified stock spindle which has new studs already on it so your go to go there and in the rear your simply removing your axles to install the rear disc's and the rear rotor where the studs stick through are not any thicker than the stock drum so your original studs should still work fine, they did on my car!

Cheers from Down Under Australia,

Thank you very much Scott for your Baer brake install tutorial and photos!!! Awesome!!!
Hoping you can help me with a query. If you are kind enough to help, that will be super! I'm a bit of a novice but love to learn and do what I can myself. I have a 69 chevelle with T4 Fronts and SS4 REARS.
I recently purchaced ( from USA ) the rear backing plates with actuators and e brakes assembly as all the emergency brake componets are not on my current backing plates. I'd like to install and get the E brake working with minimal fuss and work and would prefer not to drop the rear c clips and remove axles.

My question is: can I remove the actuator and bits from new backing plates, drop the calipers, remove rotors and install all the brake components on existing backing plates without droping axles???? or am I best to replace the whole assembly and plates the long process?? Sorry for the lame question
Jim.