Data point, and some can laugh all they want.
I plasti-dipped my Probe. It came out fantastic. The prep is low compared to paint. You want to fix dents and rust, but the substrate doesn't have to be perfect. The dip hides scratches. Beyond that, you just have to have the car completely clean and dry and masked well.
I'm probably going to dip my Buick this winter, for a few reasons:
1) It'll protect my decent condition OEM paint a few more years. I'm at the point now where 30+ years of "love" has left me with very thin paint. I can't really polish it anymore without risking a burn-through, and I'm not ready to blow it apart for a real paint job just yet.
2) It's a good value. $700 for the kit, and that's including the spraying equipment. Once you have the equipment, a materials-only kit to change the color is ~$400
3) Assuming the paint under the dip is in decent shape, not peeling or cracked, you can just peel the dip off and respray if you don't like the color or screw it up.
4) You can do it in a well ventilated home garage. The material is naptha thinner based. The sprayer is literally a Wagner power-painter product with a remote fan unit to keep the motor away from the product so you don't blow yourself up.
5) it's a rubberized coating, sort of like the handles on a wrench. So it's resistant to impacts like rocks or dropped sockets. It also doesn't show fingerprints, either. Despite the texture, I had trouble getting stickers to stick, which means dirt doesn't stick, either. To clean you literally just hose it off.
You can't get a mirror finish gloss with this stuff. It's rubber
It probably isn't very UV resistant over the long term, so if you park outside where it sits in the sun a lot, this wouldn't be a good option.
For reference, I turned this:
into this, in a weekend:
There are a bunch of grays with various levels of pop available that would look great on your T-Type.
And no, they didn't pay me to say this. Not pushing, just adding a data point. I had a good experience. It's a legit option.
That's why i bought a low mile mint cond, in and out roller instead of the other way around, you can fuck up some serious $$ on body and int..Quality paint job on a TR, 12k minimum. That's if you do all of Chucks suggestions and some more.
Paint is NOT a place one skimps on, not if you want it done right. And the most expensive place isn't necessarily the right place. Do your research.
I'm jus' sayin'.
Here is an average removal after about 10 hours....... With whatever chemicals are available.Ah, yes, but when you decide to get it removed, that's where the cost savings becomes the cost prohibitive.
I don't think anyone would make a Plasti-Dip'd TR their first choice when looking to purchase, but.......
"There's an ass for every seat."
Here is an average removal after about 10 hours....... With whatever chemicals are available.
Remember, your doing the BODY on the car, with all the dips, crevices and things like the back side of the mirrors, etc.....
It's not a wheel you can remove and work on off the car.
And if it didn't get the jambs and undersides, what a shitty job was done and why do it at all? But if so, that guy is lucky, but if was done, good luck.
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The short answer: Anything that can be unscrewed, unbolted.I know it may not be a quick list but does anyone have any pointers on what to remove before paint?
Oof. Wow. Would love to do that but I doubt time will allow it. Plan on getting the outside done first. Any problem getting the engine/engine bay done at a later date?No, what he's saying is remove the doors, take the weather stripping off (you will need to replace it) and remove the hinges.
There's a WHOLE LOT involved in painting one of these things if you are going to do it right. Here's where I'm at with one today. It gets primed this weekend.
Admittedly, we're going overboard on this one, but there is a good reason for that.
Oof. Wow. Would love to do that but I doubt time will allow it. Plan on getting the outside done first. Any problem getting the engine/engine bay done at a later date?
Cool. I eventually want to really clean up the engine bay but was going to wait until I get the trans rebuilt and have it all pulled out thenNo, you can wait, when the engine is out is obviously the best time.
That can be done with rattle can paint if you want to match the OEM look. Just be careful of over spray. Mask everything off like your going to do surgery on the car.