Average repaint cost?

~JM~

Wrinkled Member
Saw this wrap over the week-end.

B-Dazzled.jpeg

Had a sign in the back window for a nail salon type of business.
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Quality paint job on a TR, 12k minimum. That's if you do all of Chucks suggestions and some more.

Paint is NOT a place one skimps on, not if you want it done right. And the most expensive place isn't necessarily the right place. Do your research.

I'm jus' sayin'.
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Data point, and some can laugh all they want.

I plasti-dipped my Probe. It came out fantastic. The prep is low compared to paint. You want to fix dents and rust, but the substrate doesn't have to be perfect. The dip hides scratches. Beyond that, you just have to have the car completely clean and dry and masked well.

I'm probably going to dip my Buick this winter, for a few reasons:

1) It'll protect my decent condition OEM paint a few more years. I'm at the point now where 30+ years of "love" has left me with very thin paint. I can't really polish it anymore without risking a burn-through, and I'm not ready to blow it apart for a real paint job just yet.
2) It's a good value. $700 for the kit, and that's including the spraying equipment. Once you have the equipment, a materials-only kit to change the color is ~$400
3) Assuming the paint under the dip is in decent shape, not peeling or cracked, you can just peel the dip off and respray if you don't like the color or screw it up.
4) You can do it in a well ventilated home garage. The material is naptha thinner based. The sprayer is literally a Wagner power-painter product with a remote fan unit to keep the motor away from the product so you don't blow yourself up.
5) it's a rubberized coating, sort of like the handles on a wrench. So it's resistant to impacts like rocks or dropped sockets. It also doesn't show fingerprints, either. Despite the texture, I had trouble getting stickers to stick, which means dirt doesn't stick, either. To clean you literally just hose it off.

Drawbacks?
You can't get a mirror finish gloss with this stuff. It's rubber
It probably isn't very UV resistant over the long term, so if you park outside where it sits in the sun a lot, this wouldn't be a good option.

For reference, I turned this:

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into this, in a weekend:

CiW2ZMKjJL-s0FgzHUGn6zVPFVkcOvb8PyRm4Feh3UIrxQRMCRmN0A6pTLV2ZI4evSI22LJSZajwi030PxuFofLBI97QrZHlsWWKTHlbjFgrTmz4SkGRQ_MyexhvWYTsedg1cDNqCjA=w2400


There are a bunch of grays with various levels of pop available that would look great on your T-Type.

And no, they didn't pay me to say this. Not pushing, just adding a data point. I had a good experience. It's a legit option.

Google Dipyourcar.com


Ah, yes, but when you decide to get it removed, that's where the cost savings becomes the cost prohibitive.

I don't think anyone would make a Plasti-Dip'd TR their first choice when looking to purchase, but.......
"There's an ass for every seat."
_P.T. Barnum
 
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TTA308

Well-Known Member
Quality paint job on a TR, 12k minimum. That's if you do all of Chucks suggestions and some more.

Paint is NOT a place one skimps on, not if you want it done right. And the most expensive place isn't necessarily the right place. Do your research.

I'm jus' sayin'.
That's why i bought a low mile mint cond, in and out roller instead of the other way around, you can fuck up some serious $$ on body and int..
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Ah, yes, but when you decide to get it removed, that's where the cost savings becomes the cost prohibitive.

I don't think anyone would make a Plasti-Dip'd TR their first choice when looking to purchase, but.......
"There's an ass for every seat."
_P.T. Barnum
Here is an average removal after about 10 hours....... With whatever chemicals are available.

Remember, your doing the BODY on the car, with all the dips, crevices and things like the back side of the mirrors, etc.....
It's not a wheel you can remove and work on off the car.

And if it didn't get the jambs and undersides, what a shitty job was done and why do it at all? But if so, that guy is lucky, but if was done, good luck.

1667526251260.png
 
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TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Here is an average removal after about 10 hours....... With whatever chemicals are available.

Remember, your doing the BODY on the car, with all the dips, crevices and things like the back side of the mirrors, etc.....
It's not a wheel you can remove and work on off the car.

And if it didn't get the jambs and undersides, what a shitty job was done and why do it at all? But if so, that guy is lucky, but if was done, good luck.

View attachment 389616


Not trying to be a Dick, but anyone looking to do a full plastidip, should consider this:

A: Be confident in the ability of, or have confidence in a very reputable installer. You don,t want to try this on your own, not on a whole car. Not on a wheel, if you want it to look right.

B. You should seriously consider the down side.

And there are many, many more.

The first being RESALE VALUE!

I may be on my own, but I'm right.

Our shop...
 

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Chuck Leeper

Toxic old bastard
Staff member
We use the old saying, "if it's straight enough for a black paint, it's really good for any other color.
A local custom shop adds about 50 hours labor for a black paint job done right.
One blocking with guide coat tells the tale.:eek:
Key wording>> Done right.
 

Creven405

Member
My car was painted in Florida around 15yrs ago with ppg for 5k here in Oklahoma I wouldn’t have a problem getting a nice window removed paint job for 10k hell I don’t plan on paying that much when I redo it in a next year or so... just my thoughts
 

Chuck Leeper

Toxic old bastard
Staff member
I know it may not be a quick list but does anyone have any pointers on what to remove before paint?
The short answer: Anything that can be unscrewed, unbolted.
The interior, trim, doors, hood, fenders, grille, filler panels, window fuzzies, mirrors, door and 1/4 glass, door and trunk locks, door handles, door hinges, weather stripping.
Most folks don't take a shower with their clothes on...Same for a paint job. ;)
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
No, what he's saying is remove the doors, take the weather stripping off (you will need to replace it) and remove the hinges.

There's a WHOLE LOT involved in painting one of these things if you are going to do it right. Here's where I'm at with one today. It gets primed this weekend.

Admittedly, we're going overboard on this one, but there is a good reason for that.
 

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erikelvis

Member
No, what he's saying is remove the doors, take the weather stripping off (you will need to replace it) and remove the hinges.

There's a WHOLE LOT involved in painting one of these things if you are going to do it right. Here's where I'm at with one today. It gets primed this weekend.

Admittedly, we're going overboard on this one, but there is a good reason for that.
Oof. Wow. Would love to do that but I doubt time will allow it. Plan on getting the outside done first. Any problem getting the engine/engine bay done at a later date?
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Oof. Wow. Would love to do that but I doubt time will allow it. Plan on getting the outside done first. Any problem getting the engine/engine bay done at a later date?

No, you can wait, when the engine is out is obviously the best time.

That can be done with rattle can paint if you want to match the OEM look. Just be careful of over spray. Mask everything off like your going to do surgery on the car. :)
 

erikelvis

Member
No, you can wait, when the engine is out is obviously the best time.

That can be done with rattle can paint if you want to match the OEM look. Just be careful of over spray. Mask everything off like your going to do surgery on the car. :)
Cool. I eventually want to really clean up the engine bay but was going to wait until I get the trans rebuilt and have it all pulled out then
 
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