Anyone wanna check out my logs?

m3x1c0

Bad luck Buick
Joined
Jun 16, 2014
No not the brown kind :D...

Tuning with my Maft Pro and extender pro chip. Ecm is in full time open loop, maft is closed with an lc1 wideband. Still struggling to understand the thing. I tuned the mainscale to lowest average correction factor at cruise. This is tough to do in the hills of virginia. Seems the loads probably change when going up hill vs. down. Main issue I have is that I feel like I'm pulling too much fuel. Mainscale for these logs were set to -10. Before I was seeing almost no correction at parking lot speeds and driving out of my subdivision. Once I got on the highway and in town above 40 I was seeing the computer pull tons of fuel on the maft-pro screen. Now according to these logs it looks pretty good but while idling I'll see it slowly creep up to adding 10 percent fuel. Added 25 to lo load at low rpms and it still seems to want more fuel according to the maft screen. beginning to think it is not as accurate as the PL.

Either way. as you see I never saw WOT since I saw 12's at around 10-12 psi and she is overboosting still. (have the solenoid set for 17 psi. will shoot to 20 in a blink and turbo has seen up to 30 on this car) Any other suggestions?

(the file from the 15th is just a couple burnouts getting rid of old tires but you see how my idle has creeped up a ton. this is adding 25percent to lower loads.)
 

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Picture the Tpro as a box of carburetor jets. Maybe that's easier to understand.

The ability to read sensors and give feedback is your eyeballs.

Tune mainscale for the lowest correction but keep it on the rich side. Make sure low tune is 0'd out when doing so. After that use low tune page to fine tune idle and cruise. Use high tune for wot. The car will feel better a little rich. Let the Tpro pull a little fuel instead of add.

When load changes so will the fuel correction. More load needs more fuel. Don't drive yourself crazy trying to keep correction on 0. Let it do it's job. As long as it's within 10% give or take, it's all good. Again the car will feel better on the rich side.

Also keep in mind that if the Tro goes into lean cruise, correction will swing hard to pull the fuel. Mine pulls like 10% when in lean cruise. Perfectly normal. Watch the air fuel target in the sensor monitor. When the target changes so will the correction.

As far as the boost goes, hook the boost line direct to the actuator. Set the rod length so that you bareilly have to pull it to get it on the arm. See what boost does like that. Then we will move on to making it work with the tpro.
 
Okay. Read and read and read the maft manual again to refresh myself. Zeroed out the lo load and mid load pages. left hi load for now since im not ready to mess with that. my main issues are with cruise/ around town driving. Here are some results,

Lean cruise: The extender chip allows for lean cruise by setting Parameter 12 to 6 (or 2 I think.) However, since I am using a wideband to tune in combination with the maft-pro; I have this parameter set to 8 to enable full-time open loop in the ecm. It is my understanding that this would disable the chips default lean cruise and defer to whatever the maft tells it. Is this correct?

As far as the maft-pro setting goes: in the Part Throttle Tracking page there is an option called "Lean" which enables a second AFR target. This setting is enabled after a set number of seconds after Cruise tracking has been enabled and allows a customizable "lean cruise" option. Rick, as you mentioned, once the car enters lean cruise the CF numbers should dip. However, are you referencing the option that is in the maft-pro as well? I'd assume not since the car will be targeting that number and the CF numbers should reflect that correct? Either way, I have the Lean target set to 14.7 for the moment which is only.2 leaner than the 14.5 cruise target AFR I have set.

Main-scale: This by far has been my biggest struggle with using the MAFT-Pro. If this number approaches numbers greater than -10 I can see up to -25% CF on the highway. If I set it to around -15 The CF is pretty stable while cruising but Idle quality and low speed drivability suffers. Of course I can add fuel to the lo-load settings and I did but it never seemed to drive very good that way. You will see this reflected in the first 2 logs I posted. In the first I had zeroed out the lo and mid load fuel pages. In the second I added a good bit of fuel in the lo-load pages. You will see that at Idle my CF jumps considerably once warm up occurs and targeting begins. Before that happens, the car runs very lean and wants to peter out.

After fiddling with the lo load values a bit I decided to take the mainscale up to -11. Though the car runs a bit richer, it seems a good bit happier at those low speed ranges. However, I do see quite a lot of fuel being pulled occasionally. This file is labeled "final." You will see at the beginning that like Rick suggested, the Idle is pulling fuel and doing its job rather than adding fuel and tending towards lean. One time you will see it pulls about 20% for a few frames I belive right before a shift. Not sure how to fix that. I am sure that there a few bits of the lo load that still need some fuel. Also, I dont like seeing 12afrs at 10 psi of boost. Is that normal or am I being paranoid? It seems pretty safe and rich at high boost still so thats good.

Still have tons to learn and really need to drive on this tune for a good while and keep refining.

On the wastegate, havent had a chance to test the WG with the hose attached direct. Will get to that this weekend and report results. Logs are below. File labeled "final" is my current tune. Plan on adding a bit to certain load points that you will see in the log tmw morning. Thanks for the help!!
 

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Lean cruise: The extender chip allows for lean cruise by setting Parameter 12 to 6 (or 2 I think.) However, since I am using a wideband to tune in combination with the maft-pro; I have this parameter set to 8 to enable full-time open loop in the ecm. It is my understanding that this would disable the chips default lean cruise and defer to whatever the maft tells it. Is this correct?

That is correct. Once the ECM is put into full time open loop it will not do any fuel correction.
BLM and INT are locked at 128.


As far as the maft-pro setting goes: in the Part Throttle Tracking page there is an option called "Lean" which enables a second AFR target. This setting is enabled after a set number of seconds after Cruise tracking has been enabled and allows a customizable "lean cruise" option. Rick, as you mentioned, once the car enters lean cruise the CF numbers should dip. However, are you referencing the option that is in the maft-pro as well? I'd assume not since the car will be targeting that number and the CF numbers should reflect that correct? Either way, I have the Lean target set to 14.7 for the moment which is only.2 leaner than the 14.5 cruise target AFR I have set.

Yes we are talking Tpro correction factor. The ECM is in open loop and the Tpro is in closed loop. In this configuration, the Tpro is doing all the fuel correction.


Main-scale: This by far has been my biggest struggle with using the MAFT-Pro. If this number approaches numbers greater than -10 I can see up to -25% CF on the highway. If I set it to around -15 The CF is pretty stable while cruising but Idle quality and low speed drivability suffers. Of course I can add fuel to the lo-load settings and I did but it never seemed to drive very good that way. You will see this reflected in the first 2 logs I posted. In the first I had zeroed out the lo and mid load fuel pages. In the second I added a good bit of fuel in the lo-load pages. You will see that at Idle my CF jumps considerably once warm up occurs and targeting begins. Before that happens, the car runs very lean and wants to peter out.

After fiddling with the lo load values a bit I decided to take the mainscale up to -11. Though the car runs a bit richer, it seems a good bit happier at those low speed ranges. However, I do see quite a lot of fuel being pulled occasionally. This file is labeled "final." You will see at the beginning that like Rick suggested, the Idle is pulling fuel and doing its job rather than adding fuel and tending towards lean. One time you will see it pulls about 20% for a few frames I belive right before a shift. Not sure how to fix that. I am sure that there a few bits of the lo load that still need some fuel. Also, I dont like seeing 12afrs at 10 psi of boost. Is that normal or am I being paranoid? It seems pretty safe and rich at high boost still so thats good.

The car will be more responsive a little rich. There is nothing wrong with 12.0 afr at 10psi. Some may say that's lean. My AFR targets are 13.5 Idle 14.5 Cruise and 15.0 lean cruise. Gain is on 5.


Still have tons to learn and really need to drive on this tune for a good while and keep refining.

Thats the way to learn.

On the wastegate, havent had a chance to test the WG with the hose attached direct. Will get to that this weekend and report results. Logs are below. File labeled "final" is my current tune. Plan on adding a bit to certain load points that you will see in the log tmw morning. Thanks for the help!!

Have you tried lowering boost duty cycle in the Tpro?
 
Okay Still working on the tune and kept hitting snags. Car would die after an hour of driving or so. Would randomly flash Code 51 calpack error and give the flashing SES light. Narrowed it down to my powerlogger. If I left it out on the floorboard I had no problems. Once installed behind the kick panel it would eventually give me problems and throw the tune out of wack completely. After asking SteveV he recommended I use zip ties to keep it secure against the ecm. Here is the result
:IMG_0109.JPG
Intersting to note that the USB port is inaccessible once the PL is fully seated. Will need to address that with some plastic carving.

As for boost I was getting ready to install the line direct to the wastegate when I noticed a cut in the line going to the turbo.
IMG_0138.JPG
Notice where the internal thread is poking out. I'm fairly certain this happened as a result of rubbing against the intake clamp right next to it:
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Before going direct to wastegate I decided to fix this first to see if that cleared up my overboost issue.
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Moved the clamp and cut a new section of unbroken house. Here is the PL results:
Screen Shot 2015-12-14 at 1.05.17 PM.png
Well, better than 25 psi but I have the controller set to 18. My boost settings are as follows:
Boost DC STart - 40.0
Psi Start - 10
TPS Start - 3.00
Gain - 18

Additionally I am concerned about the knock sensor. When tuning my alky I did see some tiny KR while I was dialing in. Today I tried rapping all around the knock sensor with a socket extension. I held the throttle open by hand to around 3k rpm while watching the SM. Never saw any KR. However, I did see knock counts go up. In fact after knocking around for a bit I saw 24 Knock counts and then drove her. I got into boost twice (as seen in the log above and attached below) and after that I saw that the counts went up to exactly 29. I'm guessing the ecm discounts these as false knock thus why I did not see any KR? Is there a better way to test the sensor? Below is the log. In the beginning you will see me start the car and as it warms up I am raising the rpm by hand while knocking with the extension. ITs too bad you cant see knock counts as a Graph but you can see my final knock count at 29. I also recorded doing some light driving in town and then going WOT twice.
Screen Shot 2015-12-14 at 1.15.33 PM.png

I have additional concerns about the wideband. Is it normal to see it fluctuate so much at cruise speeds? The 02 sensor is attached to the downpipe near where it bends below the floorboard. Is this too far from the turbo?

My tune may be pretty far off now after getting the Powerlogger to stay seated so I will be re-zeroing everything out and starting over. The Maft-pro seems to do a good job at keeping the car in check despite this. Thanks fellas, Rick you especially of course!
 

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The powerlogger slipping down on the ecm is pretty common but doesn't usually cause a problem. The leads are long and even though the powerlogger is not all the way on the ecm it should still maintain connection. May want to remove the powerlogger all together and clean the leads on the ecm. You can further trim the kick panel with a stanley knife for the plug.

Busted wastegate line will do it every time. I would still run it direct to find out the lowest boost. No matter how low you set the target boost it will only go as low as the baseline.

The lc-1's have a fast update rate. That's makes the afr # jump around. Use the smoothing featue in the powerlogger to help. Also keep in mind, If you run correction gain too high it will over correct and oscillate. My pt tracking is set 5 and i think wot tracking is like 8.

Try not to lightfoot and move the pedal when logging wot. If tps # drops below the correction and boost thresholds it will mess with things. Best speed to start a pull is between 45-50 with shifter in drive. Lay into it and hold the pedal down. Start with short blast. Go back and review log. If everything looks good do another blast and take it a little further but keep the pedal down. If you're spinning, put some better tires on it. LOL!
 
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