anyone using a garage car lift for their TR?
- Thread starter LeeRemmos
- Start date
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
I have a Bend Pak 4 post 12000 lb. lift with a rolling 9000 lb. jack between the ramps. My shop has a 15ft. ceiling so there is no issue with
clearance. I went with a 4 post for safety reasons plus I prefer to pick the car up by the wheels rather than the frame. I use the rolling jack
when I need to pick the car up to do suspension work.
clearance. I went with a 4 post for safety reasons plus I prefer to pick the car up by the wheels rather than the frame. I use the rolling jack
when I need to pick the car up to do suspension work.
Ross Lowery
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2013
I have two four post lifts. Don't know how I survived without them. Just do your homework. I bought my first through a company called Superlifts ( although the lift was made by Gemini) and it was a great experience. Superlifts though went OOB. The second I bought direct from Gemini and the experience hasn't been positive. The lift itself is good, Just get EVERYTHING( options) in writing.
Ross
Ross
LeeRemmos
Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2015
Thx for the feedback. Height is currently an issue so I need to raise a 'cutout' the size of a car roof into the ceiling by 11" in order to fit both cars. One is a buick and the other is a mustang, but i am going an additional 3" than necessary in case I want to load both buicks (i have two TRs and a fox body SSP mustang) some day. I am told that can be done without issue by bracing the trusses.
After that, i want a four post.....For safety as well. Just need to find a reputable installer and figure out exactly how much a reasonable price is. Any help on the estimating cost front?
After that, i want a four post.....For safety as well. Just need to find a reputable installer and figure out exactly how much a reasonable price is. Any help on the estimating cost front?
LeeRemmos
Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2015
Looks exactly like what I want. Did you get professional install? You mind tellng me how much you paid?I have a Bendpak and my 11' ceiling is JUST barely enough.
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Im in the same boat.
I was told by many to only go with a quality 2point. I like the 4 point because of the safety...plus 90% of the work i do under the car doesn't need the suspension unloaded.
I was told by many to only go with a quality 2point. I like the 4 point because of the safety...plus 90% of the work i do under the car doesn't need the suspension unloaded.
0-60n4
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2003
It was just under $2,000 delivered. I debated about installing it myself but the distributor referred to a local guy that took delivery for me and brought it to my garage and installed it for $200. I was happy with that. I'm trying to think of the distributor I bought it from. He's in TN. I can think of the name at the moment.. I you are vaulting your ceiling and can get a little more than 11' do so. 11'-4" would be perfect.
TurboTdr3.8
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
0-60n4
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2003
Here is where I got it. They were real good to work with., Then one in TN. Recommendations: Get the aluminum ramps for sure. For air supply, I mounted a small compressed air tank on the lift and just fill it from my compressor every so often. I think I got a 3 or 5 gallon size compressed air tank and it last for several lifts and lowers. The air is needed to release the safety latches.
http://www.workshopdepot.com/
http://www.workshopdepot.com/
0-60n4
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2003
87Limitedwo2
Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2010
I have a pole-style building with trusses. I put in an Asymmetrical Rotary lift and had to cut out 2 trusses. They sistered 2x12's onto the trusses prior to removing the lower part that interfered with the lift. It can be done and mine has been fine 8 years later.
Justin
Justin
most, (not all) of the lifts are made in china, (including bendpak)
they are all patterned after each other, would I spend double on an amercian made lift? that would be up to you.
my chinese made lift is going on 16 yrs old , with not one issue ,ever!
I chose a 4 post as it is mobile, and can be moved out side for dirty work, again, thats up to you.
I have had 2 and 4 post lifts, and chose the 4 post for my use.
they are fairly easy to install, I did mine in about 1 day, by myself, and a cherry picker.
you will be so glad after you use it!
I ordered extra long, extra tall to accommodate my truck,
they are all patterned after each other, would I spend double on an amercian made lift? that would be up to you.
my chinese made lift is going on 16 yrs old , with not one issue ,ever!
I chose a 4 post as it is mobile, and can be moved out side for dirty work, again, thats up to you.
I have had 2 and 4 post lifts, and chose the 4 post for my use.
they are fairly easy to install, I did mine in about 1 day, by myself, and a cherry picker.
you will be so glad after you use it!
I ordered extra long, extra tall to accommodate my truck,
1KWIKSIX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2007
Go with a high lift garage door kit & Chamberlain side lift opener. You won't have any worries about clearance issues then. I just did this in my garage. Would recommend having this installed by a professional though.
SpeedRacerX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
I've been looking at 4-post lifts for my garage. Focusing on Direct Lift and Greg Smith Equipment. I want a high lift so I can stand up under it and work on my cars and I'm 6'1" so I don't want to be hunched over. Parking a second car under it is a plus. Anyway, the height is not the issue for me. Most of the 4-post makers have the extra height units. I have high ceilings in the garage and I can modify the beams further if needed to get the car way up.
My issue is the door. I'm just not seeing how this works. My current garage door is the typical house garage door that is a little over 7 foot tall. Yes, there is the high lift modification. But when I think about the high lift door, it should end up higher than the hood or trunk of the top car, GN, and not interfere or hit either front or rear glass when the door is up and a car is parked underneath. But... that's not working under the car height if I'm under the GN. I'd have to raise the top car higher. Then the door would hit the bumpers or trunk of the GN.
Is my only option to make certain that door does not get opened if the GN is raised anything higher than stored height?? Basically, if I'm underneath the GN working on it, I cannot open the door.
Any other options besides a roll up door that won't look good on my house next to the 2nd garage door??
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My issue is the door. I'm just not seeing how this works. My current garage door is the typical house garage door that is a little over 7 foot tall. Yes, there is the high lift modification. But when I think about the high lift door, it should end up higher than the hood or trunk of the top car, GN, and not interfere or hit either front or rear glass when the door is up and a car is parked underneath. But... that's not working under the car height if I'm under the GN. I'd have to raise the top car higher. Then the door would hit the bumpers or trunk of the GN.
Is my only option to make certain that door does not get opened if the GN is raised anything higher than stored height?? Basically, if I'm underneath the GN working on it, I cannot open the door.
Any other options besides a roll up door that won't look good on my house next to the 2nd garage door??
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
