Anyone still using conventional oil?

[earlbrown]

How about an oils ability to cling to surfaces during extended periods of non-operation? I've often heard that conventional oil has more "cling-ability" than synthetic.

I guess that's one facet....


...except i can't think of one engine failure from not having enough 'cling-ability'.


I know on my engine I have pump that puts oil where it needs to be. So, in my case, I'm more worried about flow (and doing it with as little parasitic loss as possible).

 

[Gary Durden]

This is just another "whats the best oil" just worded differently. The original post doesn't stop at "anyone still run conventional oil "and stops there and then several come on and post I do. Then it ads aren't synthetics better which opens the door. It would have been easier to search "oil" on this forum and he would see all the other threads about oil. There is never a general consensus or agreement on any forum about oil. To me it is more confusing than just using what you like and trust. I still remember the ZDDP thread. Talk about controversy. Not trying to bash the OP just sharing my opinion.

 

[hensleyt]

I came in on this post because I use VR1 but it’s hard to get.
HPS from Royal purple I have never seen.
But Mobil 1 is everywhere
Looks like most use conventional but a good number use synthetic and Mobil 1 the most.
I think cam chose is what motivated most choices of oil for our TR.and personal experience.
I have never used synthetic in my performance stuff but in my DD I have used both with good results,
All the new performance cars all make 100+ hp per liter and use 5/30 synthetic
I have a new build from Az GN,I wish I had ask what rod and main bearings is used.do we think it maters

 

[Boost231]

Vr1 is super easy to get. Order it from summit

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[hensleyt]

In Hawaii you can’t ship it
I grab it when Napa has it but thay bring in the 20/50 and I use the 10/30

 

[Boost231]

If you have anew build from nick/Zimmerman you should be running 20w50

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[V6sleeper]

Dino in every vehicle I have owned.

VR1 in the GN

Whetever API certified 55 gal drum of correct viscosity / spec dino oil dad has in stock at the shop is what I use

379k miles on my 2003 duramax
165k 2007 Lexus
305k previous silverado 5.7
220k previous 2001 Aurora
225k precious 2000 Monte Carlo

All sold with zero oil related engine problems. The aurora I wholesaled had developed blown HGs and didnt want to change them on that northstar. Monte was totaled by an idiot rear ending my wife.

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You do a lot of driving

 

[achalmersman]

You do a lot of driving

I do, but I also buy all my vehicles used. For instance my current truck with 379k I bought with like 192 on the clock.

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[V6sleeper]

The better thread would be what thickness and why instead of what brand

 

[SFI Cutlass]

I did a lot of research before making a decision on oil and I made my choice based off what I read on mobile1 website. So I went with 15w50 made for racing and flat tappet applications and has the highest zinc that is still for street use. At start up I get around 60psi and when fully warm I’m around 25-30psi.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

 

[Steve V]

I have a new build from Az GN,I wish I had ask what rod and main bearings is used.do we think it maters

You probably want 20w50 oil Zimmerman likes em loose got one here now they did. It had race bearings in it throughout.

 

[earlbrown]

I did a lot of research before making a decision on oil and I made my choice based off what I read on mobile1 website. So I went with 15w50 made for racing and flat tappet applications and has the highest zinc that is still for street use. At start up I get around 60psi and when fully warm I’m around 25-30psi.

In that case, you should do some more reading and get read of that gear dope in your oil pan. All your doing is introducing reduced flow, limited efficiency, and MUCH extra unnessarry load on the many important engine components.


The first number is the most important. You want it to be ''0'' since that's actually to thick but that's as low as anyone sells. The second number is whatever will give you slightly less than 10PSI per 1000RPM across the spectrum.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

0-20 syn, in my 14 Chevy truck.
10 -30 in the LS turbo engine. May do the 0-30, etc.
Want to get some miles on it, before I decide.

 

[hensleyt]

You probably want 20w50 oil Zimmerman likes em loose got one here now they did. It had race bearings in it throughout.

How loose is loose?.0015-.002 or .0025

 

[Steve V]

How loose is loose?.0015-.002 or .0025

Try .0025-.0034

 

[joesguitar]

I read somewhere that Richard Clark uses Dino oil with ZDDP in his GN's. Besides being cheaper, what is the logic to this? Maybe less leaks? I would think that a true synthetic like Amsoil signature or Redline would be better for a turbo. I run synthetic and have a small rear main seal leak. Been wondering if Dino oil would stop it.

I’ve only ever run Mobil 1 in mine, and I too have the same leak. So any suggestions out there would be great.


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[1986 Buick GX1]

I’ve only ever run Mobil 1 in mine, and I too have the same leak. So any suggestions out there would be great.
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Replace the rope rear main seal with a rubber lip type.
Oil leak solved.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

No. I haven't run conventional oil since 1987.
I prefer the 5w30 Mobil 1 variety.

 

[hensleyt]

I hit the search
What’s the normal oil temperature ,without a oil cooler?Our cars water temperature is just 160 to 170