Any torque converter info?

TIMINATOR

Active Member
Warm up the engine and trans to operating temp. In a safe area, hold the brakes really hard, and slowly Rev up the engine. See what rpm you get when the brakes finally can't hold it and the tires start turning. That is the static stall speed. Lousy brakes, having rear disc's, or hard street tires will give you a low reading. Next take it away from folks, hold the brakes, then stomp the gas while watching the tach. Get someone to help and do both tests a few times. During the "stomp it" test, the tach will climb fast, then hesitate a bit before climbing again just as the car starts to move. That hesitation point is the flash stall. This assumes that you can't blow away the tires doing the test. Give that info to Eric and let him do his thing. P.S. Borrow slicks or stickier street tires if you need to. The better info you can provide, the better results you will get from your chip!
TIMINATOR
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
P.S. that convertor looks like it came over on the Mayflower! Let us know what your stall RPM s are. There is no sense having a chip burned for a stock V-6 converter that you need to replace/update!
TIMINATOR
 
Thanks for the tip. The car is in pieces right now undergoing a rebuild. I will definitely keep this in mind when the car is ready. This is also good because when i put in #80 injectors i definitely want to give as much info and impactful parts installed as possible. Maybe get a new converter with a proper stall before i upgrade injectors.
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
I knew the thread was old, but I figured the noobs could benefit from the info.
Also the no boost stall in relation to the stall rising under boost to whatever level it does is also good info to relate when ordering parts too.
TIMINATOR
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
We all were noobs before spending the last 53 YEARS! Playing with cars, bikes, boats, and airplanes. My old man said get a job, even if you hate it, it may allow you to eventually have an extra few bucks to play on. I went the other way, I got a well paying job with Allis Chalmers welding crawler tractor roll bars, and spent my extra time buying engine machining equipment, and learning to use it. So I have spent the last 40 years+ machining and porting my and others motors, doing chassis/ roll bar work, and basically learning electrical, hydraulics, computers (automotive), and bodywork/painting.
My inflated ego stems from that!
If you beat me, you beat ME.
If I beat you, I have beaten your motor and head guy, chassis guy, tuner, wiring, and painter guys too! AND YOUR CHECKBOOK!
Always study, learn and listen.
Start by listening to the fast guys, they may not tell you much, but watch and listen. You will be surprised at what you will absorb. There are a lot of Buick and other books. Buy or borrow them, it will be over your head at first, but reread them from time to time. Much will sink in.
My Grandpa said: "if a man made it, another man can fix it, and make it better." Be that man and you will always have work."
Some call my work ethic "anal", like it is an insult. I tell them it's short for analyze.
Therein endeth the lesson.
TIMINATOR

P.S. I hung around shops and swept up, cleaned and watched, on the weekends, for free when I was younger, and learned a lot!
 

626gn

Well-Known Member
Maybe get a new converter with a proper stall before i upgrade injectors.
^^^On the right track there in my worthless opinion.

With the converter being such an important part of your overall build, it doesn't make much sense to me to put an unknown converter on a new build especially when the tech in newer converters these days is better than the old stuff. Not to say old tech no longer works, they do, but you have a converter that no one has positively identified in 2 years. Recommend getting in touch with Dave Husek 516-285-1103. He'll build you a kickass converter built for your specific combo. Good luck!
 
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