Any members available in el paso area that can assist

Nascar83Fan

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Wondering if anyone in the el paso tx area has some time to offer some help. Have mal code 42 on scanmaster.
I checked all vacuum lines, installed new ecm, new coil & icm, all the grounds that were on passenger side head were moved to firewall by one of the previous owners. All underhood connections are fine, after 10 or so minutes of running the car it will then start to run rough, rpm's will dip from 700ish down to 500's and then rpm falls alittle lower which causes it to die out eventually. I haven't checked behind the glove box yet to see if something back there is the cause of it and Car never got above 165 on coolant temp and the stock electric fan was running the whole time after starting her up everytime. It tries to restart but acts like it lost track of proper timing or firing and stalls out even pumping on gas after a few seconds. It was doing this before replacing the coil, ign control module and the ecm just in the past 3 days.
It was running fine until this past sunday when it started actting up, after it cooled off a bit and changing a plug wire everything was good. After i shut it off for 10 minutes once i got back to the house from oreilly's and went back out again to go grab some food it had with-in 5 or so minutes started actting up bad again. I have her sitting at an oreilly's on dyer st and been troubleshooting the problem since monday afternoon in their parking lot. Starter is new also, can get her to run for 10 to 15 or so minutes in park and then something starts messing with the timing and makes it start actting up. Before the above time period is reached it can be brought upto 3000+ rpm with no issues from idle to mid and higher rpm range of knock etc.
I'm not leaving it rev'd up high, just was raising rpm to diff ranges to see if it was gonna try to show any signs of actting up. I didnt see anything wrong with the crank sensor area and i did the maf tap test while running which didnt change anything. I've noticed it runs better & longer with the new ecm over the old ecm, but once enough time elapses between 10 to 15 or so minutes) from a cold start up, the gremlin shows up again. I know this seems similar to an issue another couple members had, but outside of double checking fuses, looking under the cam position sensor cap, seeing if cam sensor is flaking and checking the ccci factory wiring coming from fuse panel that runs behind the glovebox, i'm running out of things to try to make the gremlin go away. The o2's and cc's are cycling on the scanmaster like they should be in the correct ranges, so i don't think it's o2 sensor related. Will double check fuel pressure, but pretty sure that it's not the issue since it's getting plenty of fuel.
I have a '87 Turbo Regal T with TT 5.6 chip that was burned for 91 octane, 15-17psi boost and 17-19 deg timing with what looks like 28 pound for the injectors on the label on the bottom of the chip, factory style airbox with k&n air filter, stock intercooler, stock turbo, no alky kit, hydroboost converted brakes. The previous owner claimed they had a mild cam and head porting work done along with having heavier duty valve springs installed. I'm alittle leary of trying the stock chip to see if it's chip related due to the differences in timing setup with the few mods that had been done by previous owner. I dont want to hurt anything internal, thanks.
Cell # ( 850 ) 567-0123 Carl




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Wasn't getting the 42 code until after the 10 to 15 minutes of running had elapsed with the new computer.


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No longer have an issue with any codes, now i have a crank but wont start issue. Getting plenty of fuel, but no spark, so looking like i may be looking at replacing the crank position sensor. Wished i had a spare cam position sensor just in case it isnt the crank position sensor.


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I wiggled wires behind the glove box that feed into the connector with foam around it to try to see if any were loose, also checked wires going into the harnesses that the ecm gets hooked up to. Until the other day i was getting ses coming on as soon as i turned the key to on. I know the bulb isn't blown, driving my crazy.


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Well new crank sensor didnt fix the crank but no start issue. Getting alittle frustrated, i've read lots of posts here & other turbo buick sites and coming up with nothing working to fix the issue. The fuel pump primes and i am getting fuel through the fuel rail and it squirts hard when i push the schrader valve. Wished i lived in an area where i was closer to other turbo buick owners and could swap a couple spare parts to find the culprit. Any thoughts?



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Unfortunetly i don't have any way to get out to las cruces, i'm 50 some miles away from there (stay in el paso since i had been stationed here the last 5+ years and got medically separated earlier this year) and don't have another vehicle to get out that way with.
I don't know anyone who'd be able and willing to run me over there with me putting gas into their tank. I wished i lived over there in las cruces, i am sure i'd gotten to known a couple turbo buick people easier than here in el paso that had more free time.


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Maf in good condition?
If you haven't put a gauge on it, how do you know it is getting plenty of fuel? Regulator in good condition? Does it hold pressure for a bit after you turn off the key?
Coil pak and module good gm pieces? When you looked into them are you sure you didn't pinch a wire or not get the connectors seated well? Does the coil pak have good resistance between the posts?

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OK. As I see it, you have several options. Get the car to an electrical shop that can diagnose it for you. Big Bucks.
Or, reach out to the guys in NM, 30 minutes North of where you are. Or, get a copy of the Service Manual for the car and trouble shoot it the best you can. The other choice is the path you are on right now--use this board and the concentrated knowledge of its members to slog through this and get it sorted out. The store of experience here is a formidable resource. I hope this is of some help...
 
I did put a fuel pressure gauge on and it did hold pressure for awhile after i stopped cranking.


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No pinched wires and connections are snug on coil pack to ignition control module. Ohm test of coil pack terminals are 12,200+ ohms on each pair.


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Maf sensor was in good condition, think when i get a chance after i get her running i'm gonna get an updated version of the TT chip and invest in a basic maf translator.


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Is the maf an original gm or a remanufactured after market unit?
Are you getting spark?
Are you running the original timing set? If it hasn't been replaced the nylon top gear might have jumped time.
Have you looked under the cam sensor cap? Does it spin when you crank the engine over?
Have you pulled a valve cover and watched the rockers rock to see if you have wiped a cam lobe or three?
I'm kinda swinging in the dark here. Just going through all the things in my head.
Must have fuel, compression and spark at the correct time.

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The maf is an aftermarket piece, no spark and no injector pulse with noid light test. Don't believe it's the original timing set, i know the front cover gasket was replaced in the last 2 years when the oil pump was replaced.


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There is a wire that runs across the intake manifold near the egr valve. Egr valve is hot and some times that wire gets burned. Something to check.
No injector pulse, check out the crank sensor again. Is it clearanced correctly and sending a signal?
Are you getting power to the ecm?
Do you have a known good maf to swap in?

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I checked voltages on the connector for the crankshaft sensor and i am getting 4.99 on the 5v side & getting with-in 3/10ths of a volt of voltage battery has off the 12v side of it with the key on. The crankshaft sensor is properly clearanced as well. No burnt wires anywhere in the engine bay area.
 
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I'm unclear.

Are you getting your CES light when you turn the KEY ON?
Or - no?
This is mandatory. Go no further until you get this light ON.
 
Yeah i am getting the service engine soon light coming on with the key on, had posted earlier in the other thread that it was just the bulb came loose sorry for any confusion.


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Tried using a different good known working maf, didnt change anything.


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Lot going on here.
It's gone from ill behaved and ill running (which sounded alot like a MAF)
To now - a no start condition?
The complete lack of spark would lean me toward the crank sensor
But you also say you have no injector pulse. - Cam sensor
I don't believe in that many coincidences.

CES is on in KOEO - so we can assume the ECM is powered up.
FP runs since you get pressure.
Again - ECM is doing it's thing there. To me - that would "kind of" prove your ECM connection is OK.
Man - I would one by one - recheck those connections to the Ignition Module and ECM.
The thing started with a 42.
Leans me in the direction of the ignition module connector.
It won't run for crap with a bad or no MAF, but it will start - or at least try to fire. Not feeling the MAF for the no start problem.

A stupid, stupid question - but have you double checked your fuses?
 
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