Another lift post

Sal Lubrano

Active Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
It is about time in my life to purchase a lift for my home garage. My garage dimensions are 20' wide, 27' deep, 11' ceilings. Currently there are two 8' wide doors which i am thinking of changing to one large door. Thinking a two post is the way to go. Only time a vehicle will be on the lift overnight is when there is a repair in progress or snowing. Here is where I need some advice. The range of vehicles will be the GN, Suburban, Grand Cherokee and Saturn. So, this is a very broad range from a small front wheel drive to a long heavy all wheel drive. Which lift to get Symmetrical, Asymmetrical or Versymmetric. Which lift would work for all these different type of vehicles? The Challenger Versymmetric looks pretty interesting but not so sure it is the right tool for the job. Also, which direct do most install their lifts? Pulling the vehicle in forward or backing it in so the motor is at the garage door? Thinking backing it in is better so there is plenty of room to pull a motor.
 
Never thought about a lift facing front or back, all the one ive ever seen, garages,home garages, tire stores ect look to me like you can drive in frontwards or backwards, interesrting question. Don't forget the suburban pretty heavy.
 
Existing floor? If so, was it poured for added loading, like a lift being bolted to it? If not, it's saw, sledge, shovel time to put columns in.
I don't have a lift. However, my personal preference is a 4 post. The shop I work at has a 2 post....A pain in the ass.
We just put a 4 post in my bud's shop. A 8-9K Stinger. It has removable casters, so they can be installed, and the lift moved, if necessary.
In the FWIW dept: The shop owner, where I work, has had a 2 post fail, and total a new Vette. Luckily, no one was hurt.

Just sayin........
 
Most 2 post clear span ( connected at the top ) lifts need a 12' ceiling , unless you put the top bar above the rafters , which I have seen done ! Also you might want to raise the garage door tracks as high as possible so you can lift a vehicle with the door open . I did this with mine and it's nice to have the door open in the summer . Make sure you have plenty of lighting on the side closest to the wall . When the car is lifted it blocks a lot of overhead light to the short side and makes it tough to see when doing brakes . I'm redoing my lighting right now just for this reason , all in LED's .
 
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I have a asymmetrical, but I planned years ahead of putting one in 12'1" ceiling 6" under lift radiant heat in floor. Looked for many year and got an opportunity to buy 4 9000# rotary lifts for 600 dollars apiece 2 regular and 2 asymmetrical I keep an asymmetrical so I can park in that bay and get out of the car easily. Sold the other 3 to my buddy's. now I am looking for a 4 post because my 67 impala long term project is taking up to much floor space
 
now I am looking for a 4 post because my 67 impala long term project is taking up to much floor space

Another reason I vote for the 4 post. My bud uses the available floor space for the other car.. A 65 Impala.:D
 
Not to hijack, but is there a reason you can't put a car under a 2 post? I know it's easier to drive the car on and now you have 4 locks on each column holding the car in place, but other than extra vehicle storage I fail to see the value of a 4 post. I used to be a mechanic and preferred 2 posts for all the things I would use a 2 post for at home....suspension, brakes, tire rotation, exhaust work, oil changes, transmission work.
 
I got a 4 post in 2000. Best thing I ever did. Only have 11'6" ceilings. Works fine with a car.. Trucks not so much.
Shelby lift.jpg
 
they both have there pro's and con's i will get a 4 post and use it for storage
 
It is about time in my life to purchase a lift for my home garage. My garage dimensions are 20' wide, 27' deep, 11' ceilings. Currently there are two 8' wide doors which i am thinking of changing to one large door. Thinking a two post is the way to go. Only time a vehicle will be on the lift overnight is when there is a repair in progress or snowing. Here is where I need some advice. The range of vehicles will be the GN, Suburban, Grand Cherokee and Saturn. So, this is a very broad range from a small front wheel drive to a long heavy all wheel drive. Which lift to get Symmetrical, Asymmetrical or Versymmetric. Which lift would work for all these different type of vehicles? The Challenger Versymmetric looks pretty interesting but not so sure it is the right tool for the job. Also, which direct do most install their lifts? Pulling the vehicle in forward or backing it in so the motor is at the garage door? Thinking backing it in is better so there is plenty of room to pull a motor.

For the Suburban, you'll need a symmetrical 10k 2 post lift. Most 10k lifts with a clear floor need a 12'6" ceiling unless you go above the rafters or set the crossbar parallel with the rafters. The Mohawk lifts don't need the 12' ceiling but cost $$$$ and have special concrete requirements. With a symmetrical lift, it doesn't matter which way the vehicle faces vs an asymmetrical.

The four post lifts take up a lot of room compared to the 2 post. There is no problem with storing a car on a 2 post lift as long as you set the lift on the locks. My car spends the winter on the 2 post lift.

Yes, both have their pro and cons but a 2 post is more versatile for your vehicles lifted.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
I have a question for the 4-post guys.

How do you perform suspension & axle type of work? On the ground with a jack & stands?
 
Yes, if get the manufacturer specific jack. But usually the jacks need an air source.


If one wants to do general work to a vehicle, the 2 post can't be beaten. The 4 post runners are a PITA.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
For the Suburban, you'll need a symmetrical 10k 2 post lift. Most 10k lifts with a clear floor need a 12'6" ceiling unless you go above the rafters or set the crossbar parallel with the rafters. The Mohawk lifts don't need the 12' ceiling but cost $$$$ and have special concrete requirements. With a symmetrical lift, it doesn't matter which way the vehicle faces vs an asymmetrical.

The four post lifts take up a lot of room compared to the 2 post. There is no problem with storing a car on a 2 post lift as long as you set the lift on the locks. My car spends the winter on the 2 post lift.

Yes, both have their pro and cons but a 2 post is more versatile for your vehicles lifted.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Great advice!!! I'm personally going with a 2 post soon for the reason of I'm using it to work on my cars, not store them. Thanks for the reasoning on a symmetrical vs. asymmetrical lifts. This will help the OP as well as me. That point alone will have me leaning towards a 9k symmetrical as long as it clears my garage door.
 
Thank you to everyone for their help. To all the 4 posters I see the safety aspect but some projects seem way to difficult with the rails in the way. Reoving and installing Axles, transmissions/ transfer cases and front wheel drive motors/trans assemblies. Seen people put cars up on jack stands with 4 post lifts so there would be enough clearance below. With the 2 post lift from what I understand front heavy vehicles should be lifted asymmetric and long heavy balanced loads should be symmetric. That is why I am considering these multi-lifts. The companies which I have been looking at are bendpak, rotary, challenger and Atlas by gregsmithequipment. Any other manufacture suggestions to look at? Looking for a low profile lifting pad too for the hard to get under vehicles. Since my space is limited lengthwise, picking a location for the posts has me confused. What to be able to load the suburban symmetric but need enough room to put a long front wheel drive such as a Chrysler 300m asymmetric. As fort the height, most likely the post will be in the rafters a few inches. Feel like I am being way to picky but this will be mine and want it done right.
 
A symmetrical lift could lift any type of vehicle. Plus, it won't matter which way it faces.

An asymmetrical lift you're kinda stuck on the vehicle type and the way it faces. Large vehicles aren't meant for an asymmetrical lift. Could it be done..yes but it shouldn't. The advantage to an asymmetrical lift is that you can open the doors.

Another thing, please look into a certified lift. Look for the gold "ALI" sticker.

http://www.autolift.org

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
I've lifted up to 5600 lb trucks on my asymetrical, which is well under the 7500# limit, probably wouldn't do a suburban though, just have to realize where the bulk of the weight is and center the vehicle where the centerpoint is between the towers. On my 4 door truck, the front arms are straight out while the rear arms are at a big angle. Raise the vehicle just off the floor and push up and down on the corners, if its bouncing alot, then its off center. Be certain your concrete meets the psi rating needed for the lift.
That said, my asymeterical has 4.5 ft long pads under each tower bolted to the concrete, so it has a big footprint. I have seen some that just have a 1.5 ft square pad on the bottom of the tower, that would be a little more tricky to balance.
For the storage, some prefer the 4 post so you can easily place a drip pan under the raised car. There is a car up in the air on mine most all of the time just so I have more space.
For the low cars, like the vette, I have to drive it up on 4 2x6s in order to have enough clearance to get the lift arms under it, just needs that extra 1.5 inches.
 
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