Advise on passing needed. Emission #'s inside

Tori

Active Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2013
Hi guys, gotta get the FL car reg'd and smogged here in CA now. I had a pretest done on it today to give me a baseline and so i had something to come here with.

Currently at GP levels, and here are the #'s
HC @ idle = 492 (120 allowed) HC @2500 = 26 (140 allowed)
CO% @idle = 4.17 (1.0 allowed) CO% @2500 = .59 (1.0 allowed)

The car has no CAT, so i know i need that. That will help with HC, but the CO is way out. Smells rich.

Mods are pretty light, but i don't yet know what impact each one has on my results.
MODS: blue injectors, TT Chip, 3" Down Pipe, MAF, Translator, & K/N Cold Air Intake.

The only thing the tech asked about was the solid pipe running from the MAF to the Throttle Body. Easy enough to change i guess. I'll just get the flexible tubing it once had. I'm okay with the K&N, so i can leave that.

EGR works, but he was unable to get a vacuum source reading in the stall. We gently power braked it, but saw no vacuum created.

Thoughts on where to go from this point ?
 
Many of the TT chips disable the EGR and run open loop idle. Above, the idle is likely lean and the high HC's are from a slight misfire. Eric does sell 'emissions' chips. Also, I read here that the Turbo Buick's have higher allowed emissions standards then the standard Regal's in Cali, so make sure that the vehicle is entered correctly into the smog machine.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Thanks for that info. I watched him enter the "Grand National" choice so i know it was set for those parameters.

Would it help to put the stock MAF back in, and unplug the Translator ?
 
The EGR is designed to work with the rear wheels in motion. It uses input from the speed sensor as well as the neutral safety switch to indicate its in drive assuming a correct chip. In your area it appears that they don't test it on a dyno which actually makes it harder to pass if that's the case. Which would explain the difference in standards. You need a healthy CAT plus the engine has to be at least 180 degrees when testing. Make sure your Ign system, wires, coil pack, plugs are in good order. A proper functioning 02 sensor & fuel pressure not turned up excessively also.
 
Thanks Lou, motor was at operating temp, in fact the machine made us do a 3 minute warm up. Anyway, how can i check my fuel pressure ? Is this attained thru the Scanmaster, or the standard way with a FP gauge ? Thanks for the tip on the "in motion" test for egr. We would have never figured that out. And yes, we are not an enhanced area, so no dyno for us. All the ignition components are new, and the car seems to run properly, (no misifre) so i'm gonna assume for now those are fine.
 
Be sure you have a 180 stat not a 160, you will need a new cat and an emissions chip. Fuel pressure @38psi. Most likely you have 160 stat 43-45 fuel pressure, no cat, open loop idle, TT chips are open loop idle and EGR is turned off.
 
Thanks Lou, motor was at operating temp, in fact the machine made us do a 3 minute warm up. Anyway, how can i check my fuel pressure ? Is this attained thru the Scanmaster, or the standard way with a FP gauge ? Thanks for the tip on the "in motion" test for egr. We would have never figured that out. And yes, we are not an enhanced area, so no dyno for us. All the ignition components are new, and the car seems to run properly, (no misifre) so i'm gonna assume for now those are fine.
In that case I would Install the correct CAT & that maybe all you have to do.
 
Got a cat for it today, will get it installed tomorrow. Also just ordered up an emissions chip. My breather with nipple should be here tomorrow as well, so that'll satisfy the crankcase vent. Just need to find the flexible, corrugated hose for the air intake and i'll try again for real. Thanks for the tips fellas.
 
Darndest thing happened to me one time when I had to pass the IM240 in Colorado, a cable tie from cleaning up my engine bay wiring somehow got looped and stuck on my throttle linkage so it would only open 20%. Passed with flying colors.
 
Alright, getting closer but still no pass. We are good at 2500 rpm, but idle i still too high on the HC's
Here are my results.
Changes i've made: We now have a CAT, and emissions chip reflecting the 30# injectors. Fuel pressure regulator is stock.
photo(6).JPG
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Also, what's the purpose of someone removing the PCV valve and putting in what looks like a brass barbed fitting instead ?
I'll be changing this out tomorrow for the correct PCV valve

photo(9).JPG
 
So i did some research on this PCV valve. Looks like its not a very popular item So i swapped it with a normal one, but this had no effect on the HC's at idle.
I cannot find a vacuum leak, and have pulled the EGR to inspect it and make sure it's closing, which it is.

My next question, is will a LT1 MAF and Translator interfere with my #'s ? Should i swap to a stock MAF ?
 
With the HC that high at idle there is something definitely wrong. A misfire will do it and fry the cat-con at the same time. How do the plugs look after idling for say, 15 minutes?

Maybe an injector is leaking causing lots of fuel to pass through the engine.

Check that the ECM is in closed loop during idle. And if so what is the BLM value.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Regarding the pcv, I think that is the rjc one, which I've read very mixed reviews on. I'm using the stock style pcv, but with a check valve in line as the pcv will let boost into the case.
Regarding the egr, I replaced mine though in hindsight it probably was fine (I unwittingly bought a car with a gutted cat). There is a design change with new egrs - they technically fit fine, but they don't have the same sort of "guides" to locate it.
Regarding the MAF, I had a stock one, and I thought it was fine. Grasping at straws (still didn't know cat was gutted), I installed the lt1/translator and numbers cleaned up quite a bit - in fact, I passed at 25mph and just barely failed 15mph with effectively no cat! Using the stock air cleaner setup and an lt1 maf requires some work. There's also some wording on the translator cover that may not make your tech too happy. I mounted mine vertically on the core support. If you don't mind splicing, you could mount it in the glove box.
 
I've located my Translator out of sight and nobody has picked up on the LT1 yet. I just pulled a plug, and it looks pretty damn good. I stuck with my current EGR as it is a GM one, and proper for the car. Any aftermarket one is less IMO and mine is working and sealing. I'd rather have a good used OEM one than a new aftermarket one. What's your opinion on this R44TS plug ? Car is supposed to have a 43 right ?
photo(10).JPG
 
43 sounds right. Forgot what I gapped at, but was on the smallish side I think. I'd check all 6, stuck injector would be more apparent at lower rpm and kill your HC count at idle. IAC and tps also verified on scanmaster?
 
Put the plug back in, started car. Let it run long enough for the idle to come down to about 950.
Before i started engine, AF was 03, at 950 RPM was at 08.
L8 = 44-46
BL = 140 (sounds lean right ?)
tps. =.42
IAC = 62
cc = 139
MAL = 44 (this might be there because i accidentally started the engine with the MAF unplugged)

As a recap: 30# injectors, Emissions chip, relatively new 2 way CAT, LT1, Translator.

Thanks for your input guys. I'm learning alot.

Should i swap in this stock MAF i just bought ?
 
I'd hold off on the MAF. Double check the Translator dials are correct for your MAF (I ASSumed it was set correctly and that wasted a ton of time tracking down problems that didn't exist). One of the settings will lean it out at idle, you might try that setting. IAC should be between 10 and 20 warmed up (in park? I forget). 950 seems a high idle, again, read up on IAC and play around with that. You're legally supposed to have a 3 way CAT, but your NOx is so low it won't matter to the sniffer. Don't tell your tech its a 2 way!
 
We don't test for NOX here. So a 3 way CAT isn't needed, and it wouldn't help my situation anyway. (that's my understanding anyway)

Here is where my Translator dip switches are set:
photo 1.JPG
photo 2.JPG
 
So, looks like 10% rich a idle? I'd back it down to '3', or even '5'. I'd also suggest still checking IAC and all 6 plugs.
 
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