Actual A/F classic fast stupid question

TEST MY 6

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2001
been a long time since messin with fast and the car but got a pig rich issue outta nowhere

Question is is the actual A/F supposed to display even before going into closed loop? Like all of the time?

Mine is stuck at 9.19 car wont idle unless i ive it throttle and is Dumping huge loads of fuel

Map signal good
FP regulator good 40
TPS reads fine

Any info would be great
 
Yes the Actual A/F will always read. Does your ATS, & CTS sensors read correctly?
 
If all your sensors are reading correctly and your tune hasn't changed then I would look at something mechanical like a stuck injector or bad ecu
 
Its running so rich I pulled the wbo2 10 mins after keeping it running and is was wet as was inside the downpipe , Its even puffing white smoke and the car stinks of fuel I can smell it 30ft away from running it earlier. I already had the ecu fixed once if its the prob again im done with classic pos , It only has about 4k miles on it if that. If the o2 went bad would it have these symptoms ? Is the XFI unit a plug n play or does it have to be wired in? I have the adapter box now which is plug n play with the classic.

Thanks for your help, Benny
 
Map sensor good? Reading right?

A bad o2 will not cause this. It's something else like Cal said.


RL
 
Is the XFI unit a plug n play or does it have to be wired in? I have the adapter box now which is plug n play with the classic.

Thanks for your help, Benny

The XFI can use a plug and play adaptor much like the Classic does.
 
Yes map reading 104 before start then 45-55 while trying to keep it running at about 1400 rpm. I just noticed during cranking a/f was reading 10.xx so the o2 is working , I suppose when it pegs to 9.19 a/f this is the lowest fast will show and Or the ECU is fried as mentioned :(
 
If you are currently using a Caspers 108113 adaptor harness, then we can save you some money. If not, you will need another adaptor harness. It is included in our XFI package, along with a 3 bar MAP and O2 bung. Since you won't need those, we can discount the package even further. Feel free to give me a call and we can discuss whether you need a long or short lead harness and internal logging.
 
Thanks, I will trouble shoot the classic as best as I can if its shot I have no choice but to go with the XFI
 
The car sat for about 10 months but I drove it for a few miles and have been moving it around with no problems until all of a sudden it started dumping fuel.

93 Octane and after it started doing it I put 2 gallons of fresh fuel in it

83lb's

Thanks
 
Have you tried to reload the saved configuration file from your computer to the FAST ECM? Do you have an old file you could try? I had a similar issue once and reloaded the firmware and it was ok.
 
He has an XFI now. I have been helping him work through several minor wiring issues, some of which, weren't his fault :(
 
Have you tried to reload the saved configuration file from your computer to the FAST ECM? Do you have an old file you could try? I had a similar issue once and reloaded the firmware and it was ok.

Yes this was one of the first things I tried as I have had weird issues as such in the past but it did not help.

As Cal mentioned I did go with an XFI and although it was a rocky start getting everything dialed in and some wiring issues sorted out I couldn't be happier with the XFI from better idling quality (more stable A/F) to excellent throttle response it feels like a new car again and I cant wait to put some more miles on it now :) The learning feature alone sold me on this and after driving it for a few miles it's how I wish the Classic box worked but never did... Even better than the hardware is Cal's support that comes with it, Glad I made the move and Thank You Cal for all the support!

-Benny
 
Yes the Actual A/F will always read. Does your ATS, & CTS sensors read correctly?
Hello Cal, I found your question about cts and ats working correctly. In mine, the sensors seem to have the raw voltage but it does not register on the graphs. They are either full cold or full hot (whichever way I tilt the line). I have changed the bias from 0 to 10 and that doesn't help. Called Fast and they said to delete and reload the 2.05 program, I did this twice with no change. Any thoughts on this issue?
 
Hello Cal, I found your question about cts and ats working correctly. In mine, the sensors seem to have the raw voltage but it does not register on the graphs. They are either full cold or full hot (whichever way I tilt the line). I have changed the bias from 0 to 10 and that doesn't help. Called Fast and they said to delete and reload the 2.05 program, I did this twice with no change. Any thoughts on this issue?
Are you saying the Raw voltage isn't reading correct? Or your just not seeing it in the correct place on the graph?

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
 
Im seeing raw voltage but it has no effect on the cts graph, and the ats is the same. Please correct me if I'm wrong but even without the engine running, I should still see a voltage indication on the cts or ats graphs. The voltage on the cts graph is set 4.61 max to .20 min., raw voltage is 2.81 but the x & y axis (indicator point) stays all the way to the right. If I reverse the graph line, my fan comes on. I believe the voltage at ambient should be somewhere between the highest and lowest voltage. Thank you for help to all of us here!
 
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