Redid the A/C on my Turbo Buick with new AC Delco compressor, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube. It works great and is nice and cool. When I shut off the A/C with it running and the clutch disengages it makes a metal on metal sound grinding rotating sound. There are also shavings on the face of the compressor. If I turn it back on it is nice and quiet. I'm thinking this new compressor came with a defective clutch bearing/assembly? Can I just replace that bearing and if so how bad of a job is it or do I need to replace the whole compressor again?
A/C compressor noise when A/C off
- Thread starter MRP78
- Start date
GN87Mike
Active Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Sounds like you don't have any clutch air gap when the AC is off causing the clutch to drag. The only external bearing on the R4 compressor is the pulley bearing. The clutch is attached to the compressor shaft and the shaft bearings are inside the compressor behind the shaft seal so it probably isn't the shaft bearing. With the belt off does the clutch drag when you spin the pulley - does the pulley feel like the pulley bearing is bad?
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
You would need to get the clutch removal tool. Pull the clutch out a bit and shoot for .030 gap between pulley and clutch.
If bearing is bad, it's still fixable but it's a royal PITA to swap. Almost easier to get a new pulley.
If bearing is bad, it's still fixable but it's a royal PITA to swap. Almost easier to get a new pulley.
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
This is a new compressor? Don't you have warranty?
If not, and the a/c is still cold, you probably just have a bad bearing.
It's easier to work on out of the car.
You rent a puller and do this:
There's also a bearing video- none of the ones I've pulled look like it but it give you an idea.
Video will not cooperate with me but it's there if you look.
Good Luck.
If not, and the a/c is still cold, you probably just have a bad bearing.
It's easier to work on out of the car.
You rent a puller and do this:
There's also a bearing video- none of the ones I've pulled look like it but it give you an idea.
Video will not cooperate with me but it's there if you look.
Good Luck.
It is a new compressor and it does have a warranty but I think dealing with that may be harder than fixing this one or buying another. At most the gap between the clutch and pulley is 0.02 meaning I cannot get a 0.021 or larger feeler gauge in the gap. Could that be the issue? There is no bearing play yet. I'm wondering if I should try and adjust this one or since the clutch assembly on the old compressor did fine should I try switching that one to this one?
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
Get a puller and slowly pull it to .030 and see how it works.
It's not as hard as it seems. Hardest part is getting correct puller.
It's not as hard as it seems. Hardest part is getting correct puller.
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
I would undo the nut to be on the safe side- want to make sure you're not fighting a loosing battle. It's a royal PITA as it will want to spin.... I've broken them loose by having them on my bench vice...
Not sure how to do this while it's on the car.
Not sure how to do this while it's on the car.
There is very little if any air gap. I can separate it enough if I force it to get 0.20" gauge in between the clutch and the pulley.
GN87Mike
Active Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
ok, I understand - air gap is the "clearance" with minimal drag on the feeler gage. If you force it the plate flexes and it isn't the true air gap. It sounds like you have much less than .020". When you find a puller you don't need to remove the clutch driver - just move it enough to get a clear .025 - .030" meaning the feeler just rubs.
