6466 Turbo Talk.

I wonder if that is why HPT lists this on their sales stuff:

2. Stronger shaft wheel weld joint for durability
It wont matter when you exceed the design with massive back pressure.
You can only make so much with certain size shafts and components.
I've broken large shaft stuff too.
The large frame stuff even has turbo a blanket for this reason.
 
Mr Spool,
I talked to Mike Licht about some of the same questions you have about the new turbo- his reply concerning the issues you brought up was- they are working on a 6766, 6768, or a 6770 turbo design as well which should be release soon. Concerning the compressor/turbine wheel- they are a totally different design from any of the past wheels used on Buick turbos according to Mike Licht. Hopefully we will see some significant improvement as for as reliability and performance.

Haulz A
Id like to see some of the turbine designs, blades, what they weigh and what materials they will be using, if they dipped in to the Gamma-Ti light weight metals or sticking with nickel based Inconel
They should skip over the 6768 it really doesnt fit between the 6766-6770
 
Id like to see some of the turbine designs, blades, what they weigh and what materials they will be using, if they dipped in to the Gamma-Ti light weight metals or sticking with nickel based Inconel
They should skip over the 6768 it really doesnt fit between the 6766-6770
The lightest stuff if seen so far is the comp ctr stuff combined with triple bbb and extended tip compressor wheels and new turbine wheels it's the lightest turbo I've seen
The 3 bolt ex housing seems to be heavier than the whole turbo lol.
 
Lots of great info here. Far away from a 6466 on a stock rod, stock crank combo the OP spoke about, but he asked.........
 
Lots of great info here. Far away from a 6466 on a stock rod, stock crank combo the OP spoke about, but he asked.........
It will run as well as it would with steel crank and billet rods, may not last as long but it'll run!

If this turbo makes as much low end power and TQ as it is advertised and people are saying, it will be hell on the stock rods.

I never understood the fascination Buick guys have with building 50+ year old stock engine parts to see how much power they will make before blowing up! A stock LC2 engine crank rods pistons and block were built to endure a 240hp engine and Buick went out on a limb with the GNX and stretched that to a whopping 276hp and OP wants to know how those same parts will work with a 900hp turbo?

But that is JMO. Looking at the OP build and question, if his goals are to be solidly in the 9s I would buy a bigger turbo. A "super fast spooling turbo" is going to reach peak TQ at a MUCH lower RPM which is what bends rods breaks cranks etc.
 
It will run as well as it would with steel crank and billet rods, may not last as long but it'll run!

If this turbo makes as much low end power and TQ as it is advertised and people are saying, it will be hell on the stock rods.

I never understood the fascination Buick guys have with building 50+ year old stock engine parts to see how much power they will make before blowing up! A stock LC2 engine crank rods pistons and block were built to endure a 240hp engine and Buick went out on a limb with the GNX and stretched that to a whopping 276hp and OP wants to know how those same parts will work with a 900hp turbo?

But that is JMO. Looking at the OP build and question, if his goals are to be solidly in the 9s I would buy a bigger turbo. A "super fast spooling turbo" is going to reach peak TQ at a MUCH lower RPM which is what bends rods breaks cranks etc.
🤔
I've put together several builds with 64 billet bb turbos it's an easy 9 second turbo even on a full weight buick
Its a real boost maker on a stock stroke or stroker 109😁
Actually think it's the nicest set of wheels out there for a mild or strong 109 up to 900hp.
The torque can get the car right up on the suspension early
And its fantastic off the footbrake and off the roll.
you can go high or low compression on the motor
Works with most cams out there and still it lights up and rolls up top.
Works with any head as well and you dont have to nail the converter to get it to work.
 
🤔
I've put together several builds with 64 billet bb turbos it's an easy 9 second turbo even on a full weight buick
Its a real boost maker on a stock stroke or stroker 109😁
Actually think it's the nicest set of wheels out there for a mild or strong 109 up to 900hp.
The torque can get the car right up on the suspension early
And its fantastic off the footbrake and off the roll.
you can go high or low compression on the motor
Works with most cams out there and still it lights up and rolls up top.
Works with any head as well and you dont have to nail the converter to get it to work.
I dont disagree with any of that but I dont think you are talking about a 9sec combo with stock rods and a crank. And if you are I think that is dangerous and a waste of money but again JMO.
 
I dont disagree with any of that but I dont think you are talking about a 9sec combo with stock rods and a crank. And if you are I think that is dangerous and a waste of money but again JMO.
Sure I am.
We can have different views on what's needed.
Ive setup many 109s on 64mm turbos and stock cranks and rods,they run great and have lots of passes with hard street miles on them to the point if something did happen it didnt owe you anything😉
 
I bet 434nova the OP has been to the track since the original post 2 1/2 years ago so lets wait and see his assessment on the 6466 over the 45a
im sure we all know the answer..:cool::coffee::coffee:
 
Again, JMO but also based on my experience in racing and building these engines for 30+ years.

Running 9s with stock rods is not smart and dangerous.
With respect a stock crank and rods can run 9s all day long on the right car with the right build and tune even without being a lightweight.
It's not new and Many do it and have done it.
So I'm not sure why you would give an opinion like that given that many including myself would really disagree.
As for your theory of the 64 killing the stock crank and rods due to torque
Again with respect unless you do it you cant know.
so far
We have done it over and over again no opinion or thought but real world let it fly do it situations.
Not once and not twice but many more on multiple builds.
I have seen a 64 make 40+psi below 4000 rpm with a stock crank and live through 1000s of hits and 26k street miles.
Never broke the stock crank and ran 5s in the 1/8 all day long.
We have another one that has a stock crank,rod,diamond pistons,girdle,iron head 530 lift cam, single spring with a stock ported throttle body and intake,basically a 64mm car that can run low 9s that has been together for years and hundreds of hits with no issues so far.
Literally less than 7k in the longblock.
Should I tell him he is stupid?
As others need a 20k build to run the same et or slower.
As far as danger
Breaking a motor is a happening thing when you race and push things
I'm around many that loose rods and window blocks,melt pistons,blow gaskets,break turbos,tweak chassis,blow transmissions,etc
That's racing.
There is no bulletproof it's just how much time you hopefully get before it has to be fixed lol
And why alot of guys have spare bullets and other parts.
The key is being in a good car with a good chassis and tune the engine and suspension properly.
You will have alot going for you if things go wrong with the proper safety equipment.
I have seen you post about your chassis upgrades and previous accomplishments and I would assume you are no rookie when it comes to safety and potential breakage.
Also I have seen several that have run stock shortblock with heads and cam with the right car and driver and run mid 9s.
I personally wont setup a 9 sec combo with a build like that but it has been done and accomplishments should be respected.
 
I bet 434nova the OP has been to the track since the original post 2 1/2 years ago so lets wait and see his assessment on the 6466 over the 45a
im sure we all know the answer..:cool::coffee::coffee:
I believe he has made more boost and used more fuel on the 64 vs the 45a and therefore will go faster as long as the power gets to the ground😉
 
What kind of boost you guys running to hit the 9 second mark? I just installed a 6466 on my car a few months ago. I know there are a lot of factors here but from what I can tell this turbo loves boost. Think I had mine around 26psi. I couldn't believe the difference going from 22 to 26psi. I plan to go further boost wise but I ran out of time before the local track closed for the year.
 
What kind of boost you guys running to hit the 9 second mark? I just installed a 6466 on my car a few months ago. I know there are a lot of factors here but from what I can tell this turbo loves boost. Think I had mine around 26psi. I couldn't believe the difference going from 22 to 26psi. I plan to go further boost wise but I ran out of time before the local track closed for the year.
Alot of factors here are some of them.
Depends on What kind of 64 billet turbo
on the motor compression, cam,how good the head is ported and chamber size valve size,
Ex housing size,shift rpm and the over all weight and weight distribution,converter slip and what tire is being used and how the suspension is setup.
I have seen a 64 be out of breath around 30 psi on a really good build and as shift rpm rose it would struggle to make boost.
On other builds that are not as motor efficient with a poor suspension setup and a soft 60ft it would take well over 30psi because you Have to poor the power in after the car is out.
A car setup to handle the power with weight reduction, proper distribution, working suspension,and hammers through the 330 will run into 9s with a good driver quite easily.
Look at back pressure
Turn yours up😉
Their is a point where they dont feel like small turbos😎
 
Alot of factors here are some of them.
Depends on What kind of 64 billet turbo
Turn yours up😉
Their is a point where they dont feel like small turbos😎
I'm running the Precision DBB with .85 Buick housing. S cover but it has the slots, not bullet holes. I do plan to turn it up more. And my trans is fixed so that will help. I do agree going from a 6262 to the 6466 was a huge improvement at least for me. And the 6466 pulls way harder, especially in that 26psi range. It spools so fast, just can't believe how hard it hits at the higher boost levels. I'd be happy with low 10s but something with a 9 has always been the goal:)
 
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