64 Riviera Hybrid

CTX-SLPR

Active Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2004
Yes that's right, I have a Turbo6 in my '64 Riviera. This is not a "should I build" or "what does it take"; nope I've done it. I'll admit its not running yet but the hardware part is done, its just the wiring and a bit of plumbing for the oil cooler that's left.

What's all involved:
Car: '64 Buick Riviera, White on White. Originally a 425 and ST400 car with almost all the options to include power windows, power vent windows, 3.23 posi, AC, and a deluxe interior. Currently keeping it's stock brake system and suspension till I figure out the drivetrain then it'll get some more custom stuff.
Engine
Short Block: 484 4.1L block out of an Electra, Billet front 3 mains, Eagle 3.4in crank (an early one, I had to get the flywheel area remachined), K1 stock length rods (will be upgrading to 6.0in rods if she comes apart), custom forged Diamond pistons that unfortunately are 0.029in in the whole for a sickly 7.9:1 compression. Held in the frame by custom HRPartsnStuff mounts.
Top End: Champion Irons wearing 1.65:1 T&D roller rockers, Comp 212/212 roller with custom TA pushrods, stock (will replace with a ported sometime) intake and plenum.
Exhaust: Poston headers cut for an external gate, custom crossover, custom 3in downpipe
Oiling: Stage II/Series II hybrid gerotor pump. Cut down and custom baffled '64 LeSabre 300 V8 pan, stock GM pickup reworked for sump clearance. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/fa...-long-promised-series-ii-oil-pump-thread.html for details.
Turbo: stock with an upgrade exhaust housing for now, it was cheap and will get me by till I go for the full on ball bearing unit. However I might build my own headers before that so time will tell.
Transmission
'67 Wildcat BT code Switch Pitch 400 with stock converter. Sitting on a custom trans crossmember made out of plate and a junkyard crossmember of unknown origins. All controlled by a custom TPS based box that triggers the kickdown and switch pitch functions by Caspers.
Fuel System
Stock rails holding L67 injectors, 3/8in stock hardline feed and 1/4in stock return (will be replace with 1/2 and 3/8 stainless units later), '96 Impala SS tank pump, and filter. Not bolt in at all for the tank, had to make a custom crossmember to hold the rear of the straps, build stands for the front, cut a hole in the trunk floor to clear the pump/sender unit and lines (not a bad thing since it gives me access to the pump without dropping the tank) and notch the frame to clear the front of the tank.
Cooling
Summit universal fit radiator of whatever size fit, cut off the upper fill hose and had an AN-20 bung welded on and a petcock installed. Cut down billet water neck with another AN-20 bung on it in the intake. Ford Taurus 3.8L fan that amazingly fits in perfectly!
The Biggie!! EFI System
Well it's an L67 computer with a slightly stripped and spliced harness out of a 98 Regal GS, LQ4 MAF, custom cam sensor by Caspers using an LC2 cap with an L67 pigtail. I also put the L67 rings on the Stage II Indy Lites balancer. I'm using all the sensor from the L67 with the exception of going down to a single Knock Sensor and turning the other off. I'll know how well this works when I get the last dozen or so wires connecting the car's existing wiring system to the new wiring system. I specifically kept the 2 seperate so not to load up the old system with the new electronics. If it doesn't work I'll just ditch it and canabalize it for wire to put in a Megasquirt 3X system in it.

I do have pictures but it'll take me a while to load them up so I'll hit the highlights and ask questions or make requests as to what you want to see.

Thanks,
 
Engine under Assembly:
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Tight clearance behind the AC compressor even with the ear taken off of the bracket:
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In the Engine bay for the first time:
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First attempt at a down pipe:
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Overall shot of the engine with harness in place, downpipe without external gate, and most of the vacuum lines in place:
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Hole for the Pump/Sender in the trunk:
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Downpipe under construction with the wastegate tube on it:
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Completed wastegate tubing and mounts:
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Engine fully assembled and ready for partial disassembly and installation in around 3-4wks:
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Engine from the rear, notice the Type II coil pack and wire routing:
IMG_0675.jpg
 
Looks like you've put a lot of thought and work into this thing. I love the downpipe and fuel feed line setup. Keep postin and updating we love that kind of thing. :cool:
 
Wish you would have posted those pics a while back!! In the pics you have the pistons in upside down!!:eek::eek::eek: Not joking either!! Please tell us that you fixed that before completing the engine?? Mike:(
 
Unfortunately not.... I can see that ridge between the valve notches through the spark plug hole!
Think the headgaskets will be fine (Felpro 1000's) pulling the heads off and getting that straightened out?
Crap... another intake and maybe headgasket set awaits me it looks like. At least the engine is on the stand and not in the car.
 
Unfortunately not.... I can see that ridge between the valve notches through the spark plug hole!
Think the headgaskets will be fine (Felpro 1000's) pulling the heads off and getting that straightened out?
Crap... another intake and maybe headgasket set awaits me it looks like. At least the engine is on the stand and not in the car.

Most likely the head gaskets could be used again , I have reused the felpros on 600Hp NA motors many times with no problems. Glad its not in the car yet , but you most likely will ruin the intake gaskets. If it comes apart fairly nicely you can silcone any tears in the intake gasket to reuse them. Sorry for the bad news, but better to catch this right now than later!! While you have it apart make sure the rods are attached in the proper direction also!! If in doubt look down the bore at the crank journals for each cylinder , the off-set in the rod is there to put the center of the beam into the center of the bore!!
OK off my box now!! Good luck Mike:cool:
 
Rods are on right and the F's in the pistons are to the front, just got them upside down. Not that it matter though since I've got to switch everything around now. Still using a stock valley pan style intake gasket so it should come out alright, it's just the RTV I used around the water ports and the end seals that I'm worried about. We'll see when I tear it down on Thursday.
 
Very cool build, knew you were thinking about this swap a while back. Hate it about the pistons for ya. Found a solid '65 Riv on craigslist that only needed int for $6500, but couldn't even afford that:( One of these days I'll have a '65 GS with a stage II:cool:
 
Glad to see you posting some info again. Looks really nice and I hope you get her going soon. Subscribed!
 
Well the relator called and tonight is not the night for head pulling and piston swapping, it's a night for mulch laying, pressure washing and other get ready for pictures stuff. If I get lucky (doubt it) I'll undo the fasteners tonight. Otherwise tomorrow night is full tilt engine tear down and reassembly. Kinda a blessing in discuise too, I've been worried that I might have messed up the oil control rings so I'll get to check those. With any luck I'll not have to change any pistons on the rods (don't think I need to). If I had the time I'd tear it all the way down and machine the missing bolt hole for the Series II timing cover and rebalance the rotating assembly for 6.0 K1 rods since I really want that compression! But it's time to PCS in Aug so I need it together to at least get to C-Springs.
This thing has to go back into the bay on 1 May and I'm going to have to get on the final bits of wiring and plumbing. Got to order some more hose and fittings.
 
Well that was fun... not really.

When I assembled the engine the first time it was when the Riviera was still running so I cleared the whole garage for it. This time it's up on jackstands and the driveway is too steep to roll it out so I had to make do with what space I had and the cleanliness of the area after some sweeping and such.

The rods were in there correctly so that was a plus, however it wasn't just switching piston and rod assemblies side to side (if it was an on center motor that would have worked) I had to pull the pistons off of the rods and turn them over and then swap them side to side. The good part of that is I'm really good with pulling spirolocks with a pick.

So now it's bolted together but I'm worn out and will go back and torque/strech the rods tomorrow morning so I can get it buttoned back up.

Another plus of the whole thing, I did get my oil control rings in right the first time. This is probably because they are for a 4.0in bore SBC and with the 4.1 I'm running a 3.995in bore. I also get to swap my heads side to side to completely seal off the EGR vs just a block off plate. Once again I wish I didn't have to rush this and had a chance to do more work in there but I'm too short on time to be messing around with "maybe I should's" and head straight for minimum functionality. Got to hit the junkyard for an R4 compressor line pad to make into a blockoff plate to seal the compressor as I don't have time to plumb that system nor am I really planning on keeping an R4 compressor.
 
Man that is going to be an awesome car when you are done! Just keep in mind how much attention it will get when you get frustrated. I wish I had the fabbing know how to do a car such as that!;)
 
Today was much more relaxed and purposefull. I doubled checked my pistons and rods to make sure they were on right (check). Torqued the rod bolts down, undid them again and retorqued them and then rotated the engine back through to double check the torque on all of the bolts again.
Flipped the engine over and oiled the lifter bores, wiped the lifters down and inserted them with my homemade assembly lube then oiled the pushrod holes. Abit of deck cleanup and making sure the head gaskets were clean and dry and I dropped them on after double checking the studs were screwed all the way down.
The heads are fully assembled with rockers so I put the pushrods in the lifters with it laid horizontal then carefully slid everything together using the studs as a guide making sure the pushrods seated at both ends.
Then it was time to clean all the seats in the heads, washers, and nuts to get as much of the old sealant off and apply the new stuff. Ran the heads to 40ft-lbs, waited 30min, ran them to 65ft-lbs, waited another 30min then ran them to 65ft-lbs. Tomorrow I'll back them all off and redo them to 65 again.
The intake gasket held up very well so I just scrapped the RTV off of the heads and intake and reapplied it to the seal ends, around the water ports, and along the top of the rubber seals. Waited 2 min to get a slight skim then assembled the intake.

All in all I'm pretty happy that it went smoothly and the engine just needs to have the heads retorqued and the valve covers tightened down and she's ready to reinstall in 2 weeks. Now it's time to get back to installing the cable gas pedal, wiring up the fuel pump, Pos battery lead, VSS, and a bunch of connections under the dash for the starter, neutral safety switch, and switched 12V's. The list grows shorter which is good because the time is too!
 
Engine is back in and the oil cooler is installed and plumbed. I got busy this weekend and knocked out just about everything on the hardware list with the exception of the blockoff plate for the AC compressor, intake tube, and shifter mount. I'm planning on hitting some of the wiring tonight, hopefully I'll get the trunk finished so I can start sciencing out what to attach to what under the dash later. Lots of wire but it's getting closer.
 
She partly lives!!!

I had a real fun time with the wiring and I ran out of gas when trying to finish up the exhaust but I'm past all that. Turns out that all W-bodies use the same physical fuse boxes but they are pinned out differently so you can plug a GTP harness into a Regal box but it won't work. This had me chasing stuff like crazy for 2 weeks till with the help of Erik from Morad Parts I found out what I had and what wasn't matching. Turns out my main harness was 00 GTP not a 00 Regal GS like I though so I switch the fuse box out for a 00 GTP unit and everything turned on like it was supposed to.

Tonight I'm going to test the fuel system and then its off to the computer to finalize the initial tune before I try to crank it up on Saturday.
 
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