6265 Turbo timeslips

mzunino

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Hey Guys
I am looking for some real world numbers on what people are getting out of these turbos. I see the HP numbers but not a ton of track times to support it. Not saying they don't, but I would like to see some times and supporting mods. I am in the process of a build and want to make sure the turbo matches the expectations.
 
With a proper built combo and tune it will support 9 sec power. You're not going to get there with a 2800 stall and less than 25psi
 
What are you building? Post the rest of the combo to see what you can get. I have yet to hear of a 9 second pass on a 6265 or 6765. Not saying it isn't possible and Bowling Green is only a few months away.:cool:
 
How about a 6262? See sig. for time/combo.

The thread is about the 6265. The 6262 has been mid 10's on an unopened engine and will run very low 10's with the right parts. Very few have the balls to turn it up to get there though.
 
The thread is about the 6265. The 6262 has been mid 10's on an unopened engine and will run very low 10's with the right parts. Very few have the balls to turn it up to get there though.

What would you consider "the right parts"? ported GN1s, front mount, roller cam....??
Also, how much of a performance difference is there between the 6265 and the 6262?
 
Also, how much of a performance difference is there between the 6265 and the 6262?

I think the 65 wheel will flow about 30-40 more hp than the 62. And from the way it was explained to me, the 65 would be more efficent for a street/strip stroker car.

As far as picking between the 2, it all boils down to your goals, engine, trans and prefrences.
 
What would you consider "the right parts"? ported GN1s, front mount, roller cam....??
Also, how much of a performance difference is there between the 6265 and the 6262?
9.5:1 CR, good heads, up to .550 lift if they are race ported gn1 or TA, any aftermarket intercooler that will get the charge air down to within 30* of ambient at 30psi boost and not pressure drop more than 2 psi at 5700 rpm, an engine that can handle 750hp, and someone to tune it. The 6262 would need to be run at higher boost/lower rpm to get the most out of it. I'd pull rear gear and have the converter flash to around 5000-5100@ 33-35psi if I was looking for the best performance with the 6262. So id be running a 16 blade PTC 9.5". You can probably get about 300 more strong usable rpm out of the 6265 at a couple psi less boost vs the 6262 if you were running the compressor as hard as possible from the reduction in backpressure. Anyone who thinks there is a difference at low boost like sub 25psi on these small roller cam engines with low CR can think again. You need a lot of boost and the engine hovering around peak power to go really fast. If you read the 60-1 thread I have I will say that if I did nothing but switch to a 6262 and adjusted the fuel and ran 35psi the car likely would have went 10.15-10.20 with no problem other than the fact that it would be a grenade with the pin pulled. It would have needed 3.23 gears with the 29" slick to really take advantage of the torque.
 
My best time is 10.94 @123 on 24#'s of boost. First trip to track after the 9.5 PTC NL was out in 2 days prior. Soft launch with a wish and prayer tune.

Subsequent trips to the track were non productive as we blew off hoses, blew hoses in half and "electronic corruption" caused the PL to overfuel the car. Also got cancelled one night at the track when only 7 of us showed up at the track and we hadn't looked at the weather channel which is not the smartest thing to do when it's tornado season in Oklahoma.:eek:

Been way too hot for me to go to the track since late May.

My car is undercammed (may even be flat) and the valve springs are already toast after about 3000 miles so I am still losing power in the 54-5600 RPM range. That and a boost control matter will be resolved before Noble Shootout.

I'm pleased with my 6265 JB.

Phil Engle
 
So Far
GN1 Aluminum Heads-Roller Rockers
Aluminum Girdle
Ported Intake
Steel Stock stroke rods and crank
Speed Pro .30 8 to 1
Roller 212-218 cam
Convertor restalled to 3200-3300
70mm Throttle Body/Precision doghouse
50 Msds
Walbro Pump
Precision SLIC
My hope is to be able to go high 10's with out pushing it past 22lbs of boost. Realistic? Again I hear about HP #'s but not about what people are actually doing at the track.
 
So Far
GN1 Aluminum Heads-Roller Rockers
Aluminum Girdle
Ported Intake
Steel Stock stroke rods and crank
Speed Pro .30 8 to 1
Roller 212-218 cam
Convertor restalled to 3200-3300
70mm Throttle Body/Precision doghouse
50 Msds
Walbro Pump
Precision SLIC
My hope is to be able to go high 10's with out pushing it past 22lbs of boost. Realistic? Again I hear about HP #'s but not about what people are actually doing at the track.
50's will be cutting it close. The converter will have to work down low and couple up top to run the number at 22psi. Its more than doable.
 
What stall do you run on the 9.5?

Using the "Dusty bounch test", the boost needle originally moved at 2800 but now moves at 2950. It was a little tight at 2800 but replacing half the tranny fluid with Royal Purple raised it as well making the tranny shift smoother.

Playing with PL SD chip and it spools very quickly and there is virtually no slippage at the top of 2nd gear.
 
So Far
GN1 Aluminum Heads-Roller Rockers
Aluminum Girdle
Ported Intake
Steel Stock stroke rods and crank
Speed Pro .30 8 to 1
Roller 212-218 cam
Convertor restalled to 3200-3300
70mm Throttle Body/Precision doghouse
50 Msds
Walbro Pump
Precision SLIC
My hope is to be able to go high 10's with out pushing it past 22lbs of boost. Realistic? Again I hear about HP #'s but not about what people are actually doing at the track.

I think you will be able to do it but on more than 22 psi. 25-26 and a hard launch. It take a certain amount of horsepower to run the MPH the get into the high tens. Doing it at 22 or 28psi makes no difference to the engine as long as you don't detonate it. If you want to make power at low boost numbers, do like Bison says and build a 9.3-9.5:1 compression motor. I thinks your current numbers are impressive for a 49 and a Turbo change with more boost would get you to you goal. To sum it all up....boost is just a number!
 
See notes above, I am just putting this setup together. Trying to get the turbo right for my goals. I am building the bottom end to hold up, hoping I can break the tens with this combo without having to push it super hard to get it there.
 
I think you will be able to do it but on more than 22 psi. 25-26 and a hard launch. It take a certain amount of horsepower to run the MPH the get into the high tens. Doing it at 22 or 28psi makes no difference to the engine as long as you don't detonate it. If you want to make power at low boost numbers, do like Bison says and build a 9.3-9.5:1 compression motor. I thinks your current numbers are impressive for a 49 and a Turbo change with more boost would get you to you goal. To sum it all up....boost is just a number!

Man, I make a ton of errors before the coffee kicks in...:p

What is your combination?
Most people don't need a 6265.

When do you need a certain size in your opinion? Should he max out the 49 first on the new combo? I've seen the people on here max out a turbo but I can count them on one hand. I have a turbo that is not optimal for my combo. However, I am growing into it steps at a time. It meets my goals as I raise the boost.
 
I'ld up those 50s to 60s and add alky. From there I guess it's just a matter of matching a turbo to a converter and coin.
 
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