I have one in the shop right now and doing the mock up on it. I was keeping it for another project. Should be a fun Spring if every thing works out right.
Good luck, I almost bought a Typhoon but a couple people told me they were more expensive to upgrade than a GN. With the money I've spent on my GN, I could've bought both.I have one in the shop right now and doing the mock up on it. I was keeping it for another project. Should be a fun Spring if every thing works out right.
Hopefully you know someone with a bowtie, I think they're very few left.
I've seen this episode. My answer to this is that I wanted a GN with the turbo v6. I looked around and saw some turbo V8 swaps, not necessarily in GNs, but they were out there and I hand the cash on hand to pick up a nice 80's Cutlass, SS Monte or Malibu.This is why a lot of guys go V8 and never look back, less fuel per cylinder to make the same usable power and less stress on the block. There's a pretty good video that was put out by Engine Masters asking a similar question as to how much boost can a stock production chevy block take/make, and they even use the stock cast bottom end for the bowtie engine. Not related to the Typhoon vortec block of course, but still pretty interesting nonetheless to see them throw down some pretty impressive numbers with a stock/junk short block....
Ouch! Did/does it have a stock crank? Is there an aftermarket forged crank for the block? From my understanding, the block can be drilled such that it will support 4 bolt mains.
Interesting, I was talking about putting a girdle on my 3.8L block and one of the vendors on here said you'd be better off with a forged crank. At least for the 3.8L and 4.1L block, the forged cranks have came down in price quite a bit.
What turbo are you running? Do you have the stock intercooler setup or an aftermarket air to air IC?
Have you considered a chevy bowtie or are they too expensive or are your goals something else? As in getting the most out of the stock block?[/QUOTE
Our (RPS) crankshaft distributor is currently working on developing and producing a forged crankshaft for the 4.3 Sy/Ty blocks. There are a few things in the air at the moment, but the cost will be anywhere from $550-$1,200 I think.
Considering that other aftermarket Sy/Ty crankshafts START at $2,500 or so, do you think there would be much interest for a Sy/Ty forged crankshaft that costs up to $1,200? (Of course assuming that the design was good and it was a strong piece...)
What vendor told you that a crank is better than a girdle?
My buddy has Bison tune his car to about 520rwhp , and ran 10.3's with it. It was a 109 block, girdled (although I would say billet mains instead), stock crank, stock rods, and JE pistons I believe. My point is that with billet mains or a girdle it will help hold the crank in and help stop the flex. Although the forged crank is still much stronger, the center mains are still not very strong. I am saying all this in reference to an engine not making more than 650-700fwhp. This has been the experience of our local club member's engines with girdles vs caps vs aftermarket cranks.
Stock crank, good crank alot of money. All billet main caps. Stock/modded intercooler have an air to air not sure if I want to install it. 64/66 Gen 2 PTE Turbo with a buick flange and downpipe/external gate. Thinking about using turbo on my Buick and detune truck as it is a real PITA to work on.
My crank distributor recently told me that he is looking into having some Sy/Ty cranks made. Apparently there are a few things in the air at the moment which drastically affect the price, so he was telling me that they would be anywhere from $550-$1,200 a crank.
Just a heads up.
I hear you about time. I work too many hours through the week and I'm just too damn tired to do much on the weekends.Got one on the engine stand right now. Can't seem to find time to work on it due to work and travel. When I do get it it back together should be a fun summer.
I guess then, the answer to the Op's question is, 28#.Don,t know what kind of power they will take as I have yet to find out. But I will tell you at over 30 lbs of boost the crank will flex and tighten up the mains and knock out billet main caps out of the block. I am still waiting to put motor back toghter for round two,