3.8 stock block rebuild

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Mr URL

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May 24, 2001
Hi guys!! Long time no see!!!

After many years I'm working on getting my '86 T-Type refresh and rebuild from being in storage for years. We are going to go through the entire car from front to back. Poor thing has sat for 7 years. Time to get it back and going!! I have a list a mile long to go through. Friend is going to help me get it going who has owned a Grand National and has always helped me work on the car.

The engine lost most but not all oil pressure (oil pressure rev above 2K is good below is zero!) all because dumb me didn't realize when I put on used/refreshed PT&E iron heads it had roller cam springs in it (300+ lb!) instead of about 100lb for flat 206/206 cam. Broke rockers, push rods, and punched holes in the lifters!! No holes in the block and not blown up per say. I heard it squeak on low oil pressure which tells me the hard parts and bearings touched a time or 2.

I plan on getting the engine redone by Anderson Performance. I think they will do a great job. I don't trust the local Chevy guys to do it right!

The car has best ran a 11.0 with 91 octane gas and alchy injection @ 24 psi boost and no knock on 10" slicks. 1.51 60 ft. TE-63-E turbo, 62mm ported stock throttle body and ported upper, stock unported intake, 3" TH DP, 3" single shot exhaust, 50lb injectors, Red Armstrong double pumper, CAS stock location V4R intercooler changed to street height (1 of 1), 206/206 flat tappet cam, PT&E ported iron heads, Bob Baileys alchy chip (23 degrees timing), LS1 MAF, etc and basic upgrades.

This car expects to live mostly on the street but can handle a 9 sec quarter if turned up. Converting to E85 after break-in. Plan on turning the car down to high 10's for the street. I need to upgrade the turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, and more to get to E85.

Any recommendation for a 3.8 stock block build to handle 9's if needed but normally turned down? 4.1 forged stroker with steel caps and girdle or ? Compression ratio? Looking to ARP the entire thing. I already have stud kit on the heads. It has the wire locks on it. Sounds like that isn't the thing anymore? I'm sure Anderson will get me in the right direction but thought I'd start this tread just for discussion sake.

I'm excited to get the car back on the road this year.


smallT-Type.jpg
 
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Anderson has been around since 1. Haven't met him but his reputation is impeccable. Follow what he says and you'll be just fine. Keep us updated!
 
3.8 or 4.1 block with as little overbore as possible
11 to 1 CR
3.625 stroke
Girdle it
H beam rods
Port and polish the heads and intake
218/212 hyd roller cam (you have some options here)
64/66 or better
160 pph injectors
-8 feed and -6 return
Minimum of 352 lph pump to make 700 hp at the wheels
 
If you're taking it to Billy, describe your goals and he'll help you get things straight. Enjoy!
 
Hi guys!! Long time no see!!!

After many years I'm working on getting my '86 T-Type refresh and rebuild from being in storage for years. We are going to go through the entire car from front to back. Poor thing has sat for 7 years. Time to get it back and going!! I have a list a mile long to go through. Friend is going to help me get it going who has owned a Grand National and has always helped me work on the car.

The engine lost most but not all oil pressure (oil pressure rev above 2K is good below is zero!) all because dumb me didn't realize when I put on used/refreshed PT&E iron heads it had roller cam springs in it (300+ lb!) instead of about 100lb for flat 206/206 cam. Broke rockers, push rods, and punched holes in the lifters!! No holes in the block and not blown up per say. I heard it squeak on low oil pressure which tells me the hard parts and bearings touched a time or 2.

I plan on getting the engine redone by Anderson Performance. I think they will do a great job. I don't trust the local Chevy guys to do it right!

The car has best ran a 11.0 with 91 octane gas and alchy injection @ 24 psi boost and no knock on 10" slicks. 1.51 60 ft. TE-63-E turbo, 62mm ported stock throttle body and ported upper, stock unported intake, 3" TH DP, 3" single shot exhaust, 50lb injectors, Red Armstrong double pumper, CAS stock location V4R intercooler changed to street height (1 of 1), 206/206 flat tappet cam, PT&E ported iron heads, Bob Baileys alchy chip (23 degrees timing), LS1 MAF, etc and basic upgrades.

This car expects to live mostly on the street but can handle a 9 sec quarter if turned up. Converting to E85 after break-in. Plan on turning the car down to high 10's for the street. I need to upgrade the turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, and more to get to E85.

Any recommendation for a 3.8 stock block build to handle 9's if needed but normally turned down? 4.1 forged stroker with steel caps and girdle or ? Compression ratio? Looking to ARP the entire thing. I already have stud kit on the heads. It has the wire locks on it. Sounds like that isn't the thing anymore? I'm sure Anderson will get me in the right direction but thought I'd start this tread just for discussion sake.

I'm excited to get the car back on the road this year.


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Why do all that for a 10sec car?
Leave your fuel system if it tests good and run 2 nozzles on the alky kit.
50s and twin nozzle will get you into the 10s.
Small cam a little compression caps keep it on the small $ end.
Tune it ,tune it,and pay attention to the suspension.
63 turbo will go 10s but an upgrade here to a new billet bb turbo will lite up fast and be much more enjoyable to drive and race off the footbrake.
 
I use duel nozzels. :) Wide open.
 

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Why do all that for a 10sec car?
Leave your fuel system if it tests good and run 2 nozzles on the alky kit.
50s and twin nozzle will get you into the 10s.
Small cam a little compression caps keep it on the small $ end.
Tune it ,tune it,and pay attention to the suspension.
63 turbo will go 10s but an upgrade here to a new billet bb turbo will lite up fast and be much more enjoyable to drive and race off the footbrake.
High five my friend!! :) Double pumper fuel and duel nozzle. I'm only using about 60% fuel ability between the 2.
 
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The car is low option. Manual windows, manual locks, manual seats. Only options are digital dash, concert sound, and power trunk. It should be easy to go fast. My fully optioned GN was 3900 lb with gas and me. This car should be 3400 with me.
 
Has anyone tried duel nozzle denatured with E-85? I'd like to try it.
If you mean using an alky injection system in addition to running e85, yes. I went as high as 34-35psi with no knock that way. e85 in the alky system will kill the alky pump.
 
No, it would be a full E85 fuel system with the alchy kit using denatured sprayed on top of it. :) So, Like Mike S said. Thanks for the info! 34-35 psi is where I would max it out at. Good to know it can be done!
 
What do people think about the TA Performance aluminum blocks for street/strip use?
Also can you use a regular non-turbo 109 block and hold the same power as a turbo block? What I read is only difference is the oil return hole? If so, might be better option than chance hurting the numbers matching block to the car.
 
! 34-35 psi is where I would max it out at. Good to know it can be done!
At 35psi there is no need to spray alky if you are running E85 , my car has been higher than that . You just have to make sure your complete fuel system is up to snuff .
 
I want the engine to hold 1000 hp. What parts do I need?

Think I may need the transmission to hold it too! What you guys think about

This a good convertor choice?

My current built trans and 9/11 convertor is getting over powered by my current combo. More I turn it up the more it slips and won't shift below 6K rpm.
 
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Mr.Spool, you know the Superman cape you wear doesn't always fit other heroes on the team right? LOL

If you want to make 1k, take your time, find quality experienced builders etc and make sure you have $30k minimum laying in a duffle bag in your closet. Then you'll need to find the other closet with the other bag later on. Hahaha

IMO, the TA block would be a good start if you're starting the long journey of eventually being a 1k car on this platform. I'm sure there's nothing but regret seeing a 7th cylinder hole in your big $ 109 engine. I capped my 109 hp limit too if curious. I realized I like driving the car more than working on it dead in my garage.
 
As far as transmissions go and if you want to run a 200-4R behind a high HP motor , Dave Husek is the way to go . I know Mr Spool has & is using Daves trans for years and is not easy on it , but I'm sure he will chime in .
 
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