Removing down to the intake manifold

GNbythebay

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
my engine bay has been looking very dirty and it’s time to take it apart to clean and replace all the cracked original vacuum lines and gaskets. As of now I have it all taken apart down the the intake manifold and that’s the furthest I’m going to go. My questions are What gaskets do I need to put everything back together correct? What do I torque the manifold back to? The hard vacuum lines running off of the top of the throttle body are all twisted so where can I buy a replacement part? Lastly while I have the engine apart is there anything that I should replace/upgrade before I put it all back together? Thank you for your help!
 
Kirbans has the vacuum lines and the right little vacuum hoses. The stock vacuum block should be replaced with billet piece. You should be running a RJC power plate for sure. The pp will come with the replacement upper plenum gaskets you need.
 
Kirbans has the vacuum lines and the right little vacuum hoses. The stock vacuum block should be replaced with billet piece. You should be running a RJC power plate for sure. The pp will come with the replacement upper plenum gaskets you need.
Ok thanks. I have the PP already just need a new gasket now.
 
32 ft/lb or 44 N-M ... start in the middle go back and fourth side to side while you tightn them ... some prefer to start at 25ft/lb and then go to 32 ... all in the same sequence.. you can get all the gaskets on rock auto or most of our vendors .. if you see a little heart nest to a part on rock auto that is usually good clue to get that one
 
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Ok thanks. I have the PP already just need a new gasket now.
Just a note on the PP. The instructions call for reuse of the original plenum bolts.
After they were all snug
the very first bolt that I torqued (15 lb/ft ?? - wasn't much) pulled the aluminum threads out of the intake. IMO, those factory bolts were not catching enough threads once the PP and additional gasket were installed. I ended up getting some longer stainless studs and factory-style flange nuts off of ebay to fix it.
 
I did a thread on that a couple of years ago with the new lenght bolts needed.
 
I did a thread on that a couple of years ago with the new lenght bolts needed.
Found it:


I ended up using M8 x 1.25 x 60 studs on everything like you mentioned. I looked on Ebay, but can only find them in 50 mm length now. The 60 mm bottomed out in the hole and helped me to avoid heli-coil on the one I pulled the threads on. The 50 in the link below would work fine if you haven't already messed them up.

 
I wouldn't recommend serrated nuts on an aluminum plenum. They will rip the crap out of the casting every time they get backed off.

you can get all the gaskets on rock auto or most of our vendors .. if you see a little heart nest to a part on rock auto that is usually good clue to get that one


Actually the good one isn't listed for our cars application. The older version doesn't have a hole in it to send EGR pressure into the intake. I can't recall the exact number off the top of my head but I keep a stack of them around for that very reason.
 
Was there 2 versions of stock P/ Plates? I seen one for sale today that has a square hole for EGR & doesn't look homemade, & if running a ported intake with EGR passage removed should plate be trimmed to match opening?
 
Was there 2 versions of stock P/ Plates? I seen one for sale today that has a square hole for EGR & doesn't look homemade, & if running a ported intake with EGR passage removed should plate be trimmed to match opening?
interesting the stock application one from rjc does not have the hole for egr passage.. at least the pics ive seen ..
 
You can drill it out but makes no sense if you run a TT chip b/c it eliminates the egr anyway.
Would it make sense to remove that area of the plate that covers the EGR passage if you are using an intake with the passage removed or would that change the characteristics of flow that the P/plate was designed for in the first place?
 
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