2-3 shift flare "fix" revisited...

YGETV8

I think, therefore I am??
Joined
May 24, 2001
Okay... my Jimmy's "full race" trans, now with about 16-1700 miles on it, has developed a 2-3 flare or "slide shift". Hopefully due to making a little more power in this car! ;) The 1-2 (which I took to Jimmy to fix once already) shifts very nice and the fluid still smells fresh.

So... having read the "fixes" for this problem from other threads, my questions are: is the drum upgrade I would need the billet "forward" drum? It's about $400, isn't it? If I get the drum and take the tranny to a local tranny shop or builder (Jimmy's is 200 miles one way) specifying the remedy suggested here is this something that they should be able to handle? I would tell them to touch nothing other than what I am asking them to, 'cept maybe check the clutches for wear.

Thanks for helping the "transmissionally challenged" such as myself!
 
Jay

The drum you speak of, (the one I am supposed to try to sell you) is NOT your problem. You have a timing or apply issue , neither of which is effected by, or will enhance performance in any way, billet forward drum. The only way that drum could AT ALL contribute to the problem you are having is that the feed holes for oil to direct clutch for apply and release lube have not been opened up. And that is 90% NOT likely that the small holes is the cause.
So, with that in mind, lets move on.
Four things are "possible" .
1) direct clutches are wearing prematurely and the excessive clearence is not allowing the clutch to apply as the band releases faster than the clutch can apply.
2) The band is worn and it is releasing too early and the clutches are late. I know that 1 & 2 sound the same but they are in fact different. One is the band has too much clearence and the other is the clutch has too much clearence.
3) And this one I doubt but valve body plate holes could be wrong. The fact that it worked for as long as it has, as well as it has, points to the fact that something wore and not control, however, control could have caused the wear. I know it sounds like I am talking in circles but in fact they are all different situations.
4) Put a pressure gauge on it. See if at top of second gear pressure starts to fall off. If so, add a sump kit and more capacity pan and see if it stablizes. Very common. Ck out this thread..
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88173

Now if I had to bet, I would say that cast iron rings were used on the center support and all it took was the miles you put on to "hang" a ring and groove it into the drum sealing surface, causing a leak on apply. We provide extra lube to this point, micro polish and use a teflon ring to prevent this. Also #4 on the list would be a good place to start.
If a "stock configure band" was used I would point and start there. It also has a "tendency" to hurt the high clutch, because it has to stop the drum after it has had a chance to gain speed, that is the "flair" that you feel. I hope you understand. Typically a flair is actually second gear going back to first gear then to third gear if you can follow me .

Bruce
WE4
 
Thanks, Bruce! I wish I spoke Greek, then I could understand you! ;)

I had read in previous threads about a pressure/timing mod in which several of you experts had said that a stock drum wouldn't be able to handle the increase in force. As in, you guys had "learned the hard way!" That is why I brought up the drum. Not only that, but I am running a multi disc l/u PI 9.5", and figure the billet drum would give me a little more peace of mind.

So... I am really not wanting to drive this puppy 400 miles round trip again, nor have to ship it somewhere ($$$ is tight!), but... I've been the "local" guy route before and don't know if I should gamble.

There is a tranny shop a few miles from here that "says" they can set up TR trannies and there are a few that are living, but I should be capable of more power than the couple I've heard of with their work. Maybe if I tell them to only look for the ideas presented here, and don't change the setup of the rest of the tranny I would be okay... ? I don't want to piss someone off, either, you know?! "Oh, you're saying my setup isn't good enough for you, eh Mr. Jackson? Hrumphhh!"

Thanks, Jay
 
Originally posted by YGETV8
? I don't want to piss someone off, either, you know?! "Oh, you're saying my setup isn't good enough for you, eh Mr. Jackson? Hrumphhh!"

Thanks, Jay

To this I would reply, "Yes that is correct sir, you may need to educate yourself some more sir. " Better to find this out now, then AFTER you pay your bill. I would never hesistate to confront. An understanding, honest guy would be pleased and impressed that you asked. If you get any other response, turn around and walk out. Remember, it is your hard earned money. I would most DEFINITLY confront and discuss before they ever saw or touched my car.
Now.........As far as interpreting Greek...............................
Chris ?
You out there?
This gentlemen would like a Greek interpretation....ROFLMAO!
:D
:p

Bruce
WE4
 
can you say malaka?i agrre with you bruce buton the east coast we have a belief that if you dual feed the hi drum and open up the third accumulator hole in the plate and you will be going in the right direction.we reccomend the billet drum because the 2/3 is so quick it causes that weak stock drum to roll over and die.
 
Thought I'd update this while I was here: I haven't driven my WE4 at WOT much for various reasons since I posted this, but I did overfill the tranny about 3/4-1 quart and it seemed to help. My theory was that since it didn't seem to slip/flare every time, maybe it was a matter of simple fluid starvation, as mentioned above. Thanks to all the replies!
 
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