1st time track run

You need to hit the tires hard to get a good 60'. 2psi isn't going to cut it. You'll need to address your brakes if you want better times.
I am leaning towards upgrading to a tr6 and using the 2 step function.
I tried doing the s10 pistons and 2 large shoes many years ago but I did not like the way the brakes reacted with street driving.
 
I am leaning towards upgrading to a tr6 and using the 2 step function.
I tried doing the s10 pistons and 2 large shoes many years ago but I did not like the way the brakes reacted with street driving.
It won't be the end-all-be-all solution to that problem, but it'll help a little. Mine is vacuum converted and with a new master, new long shoes, s10 wheel cylinders, adjusted them out by hand instead of using the self adjusters to make sure, I could only hold about 2-3 psi. I had a converter too tight for the combo mostly, but the point is still relevant. With the tr6 and the 2 step set to 2800 (right at the limit of what I could hold) with 10 degrees of retard, it'd float up to around 6 psi. Got some 1.80 60's out of it. Still leaving a lot on the table but it is better than nothing. The spark cut high limit and other features of the tr6 make it worth it for more reasons than just the 2 step IMO
 
To the OP. What chip are you using...and how old are the valve springs?
Chip is 6.0 burned for Alky.
Motor was rebuilt last year. Stock heads. Btw I have another pl file with it in drive if you want to look. :)
It won't be the end-all-be-all solution to that problem, but it'll help a little. Mine is vacuum converted and with a new master, new long shoes, s10 wheel cylinders, adjusted them out by hand instead of using the self adjusters to make sure, I could only hold about 2-3 psi. I had a converter too tight for the combo mostly, but the point is still relevant. With the tr6 and the 2 step set to 2800 (right at the limit of what I could hold) with 10 degrees of retard, it'd float up to around 6 psi. Got some 1.80 60's out of it. Still leaving a lot on the table but it is better than nothing. The spark cut high limit and other features of the tr6 make it worth it for more reasons than just the 2 step IMO
Thanks for the info.
I will also investigate if there are brake upgrades or improvements that won't break the bank.
 
A few WOT blasts with the stock pressure springs will soften them up real quick. I always recommend 981's. Going to the S-10 rear wheel cylinders and all long pads fucks the brake bias up and can lock the rears in a panic stop on the street and the ass can come around on you. My car was strictly track the last few years so I got away with the rear wheel mods. Line lock releases the rear brakes on the burnout and allows the rear brakes to remain cool for maximum holding power for building RPM on the line. I have a vid for an easy line lock install where you don't have to cut/flare the brake lines. It's all plug and play. Low gear tuning is crucial.
 
Hi.
1st time at the track 30 years.
1nd run 11.9, 2rd run 11.6 @118mph. ~2.0 60ft time.

Here is a picture of the log.
Is the 02mV normal to drop somewhat?
Does the o2mv coincide with the wideband?
There is some boost creep and I see that fuel is being added but why does the 02mv start to drop?
I also attached the PL log file if anyone wants to comment or give thoughts.
Thanks,

View attachment 389460
Cant read the file
Can you list your combo?
 
His sig: Eastern Perf. frt. mnt. intercooler; 6262 Turbo; Stock heads, Burhead Headers;Hooker exhaust; Kenne-Bell intake; Accufab TB; 60lb. Injectors. Razor's Alky. TT chip running closed loop. PLX wideband. 3021 converter
 
I am leaning towards upgrading to a tr6 and using the 2 step function.
I tried doing the s10 pistons and 2 large shoes many years ago but I did not like the way the brakes reacted with street driving.
The rear brakes are what holds the car
They must be setup right to get the best launch and can be re adjusted if you dont like the extra holding power when driving the car normally.
There are a few ways to do this
But...............
What we used to do was use the ebrake to hold her back
Worked awesome! Used to hold 20psi of boost then drop the hammer and leave the line on 20psi💪
 
His sig: Eastern Perf. frt. mnt. intercooler; 6262 Turbo; Stock heads, Burhead Headers;Hooker exhaust; Kenne-Bell intake; Accufab TB; 60lb. Injectors. Razor's Alky. TT chip running closed loop. PLX wideband. 3021 converter
Thanks man
 
Hi.
1st time at the track 30 years.
1nd run 11.9, 2rd run 11.6 @118mph. ~2.0 60ft time.

Here is a picture of the log.
Is the 02mV normal to drop somewhat?
Does the o2mv coincide with the wideband?
There is some boost creep and I see that fuel is being added but why does the 02mv start to drop?
I also attached the PL log file if anyone wants to comment or give thoughts.
Thanks,

View attachment 389460
I dont like the 744 mv
Doesnt work with the 10.7 wideband afr.
There can be a few reasons for this.
I would get the new sensors in the car as scooby suggested for sure.
Also I know its work but I would live to see what the plugs are doing.
So I think you should make a hit and pull some plugs see what is the leanest cylinder and if they are uniform.
Do you have a powerplate?
 
File shows he was in OD...and it doesn't look like the NB and WB agree. RPM's seem to be struggling a tad in 3rd gear.
Wow
If this is a 3.42 gear car, 3rd gear would be the ticket then.
Mechanically Like you posted springs may be going away
Lean 1st down leave on boost and run it out the back door in 3rd it should fly👍
 
The NB O2 reading seems to be reading lower than it should if your WB is at 10.80. Usually the NB O2 is around 800+ with that WB reading., So either sensor could be reading off a little. .
 
Thanks for the reply all. I have alot of good info from you guys.
There are new sensors on order and I will go from there.
Mr Spool- yes I have a power plate and I will pull plugs when I get under the hood.
Thanks again,
 
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