1st time head replacement

NorCalTurbos

Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
Joined
Nov 9, 2013
Coolant coming out the exhaust not mixing with oil though. I’m sure this has been beat to death but I’m getting ready to replace my heads, I’m thinking the ported irons are good enough for my build, hopefully I’m not opening a can of worms and the block & bottom end is all good.
What I’m looking for is:
What gaskets? What Heads? Removal and install steps with torque sequences and specs all info is greatly appreciated. I really don’t wanna do this twice.
 
Getting ready to do this again also, but this time I am going to pull the engine instead of working over the fenders (not fun).

How much boost are go going with ?

What power level ?
 
If your gonna port them dont skimp, thats where all the power is. Get someone who does alot of gn heads,or i think gn1 sells them ported. I got the ones i already had done, 1500.00. They make a big difference in the over all preformance of your engine.
 
First timer label all parts ,bolts,nuts . Take pictures in case project takes longer than expected. Use a calibrated torque wrench ,remove oil pan,clean out area,use wet/dry vac to remove water antifreeze from piston top area. Felpro of Victor gaskets. Just a few suggestions
 
Also I don't know if you are working outside or in a garage but do yourself a favor and spray some WD-40 (or another protectant) in the bores to protect the machined surfaces from rust. Some projects have a habit of changing courses or taking seasons to complete. I went to change head gaskets and then I noticed my flat tappet lifter was concave and my cam lobe profile has started to get rounded on one side. Now I needed to add that to my list of needed items. Now I have to take the front cover off. Now I need the water pump gasket and now I can change that black plastic chain guide that everyone talks about and I have to get a new timing chain. You get the picture, everyone on the board has done it a least once. Cleanliness and torque sequence.
 
Don't depend upon WD-40 alone. It will evaporate & allow rust to form.

I bought a gallon container of WD-40 & a plastic spray bottle with adjustable nozzle like you would use to mist plants. Mix the WD-40 50/50 with clean motor oil or assembly lube & pour into the bottle. Now you have a preservative with enough body to it that will last.
 
Thanks everyone for all the advice, and tips. I was gonna wait until the new heads and gaskets show up before I remove the existing heads but it sounds like I need to start in on it now to inspect other parts in the engine. I’m working on it in my garage so I’ll probably pull the engine and trans and put the motor on a stand. Just sucks I bought this set up from a member here for $3500 everything was suppose to be in great condition.
After I got it started the turbo blew oil straight through the center section at that point I figured the motor had been ran hard and neglected also. Lucky Me. I really would like to enjoy my car, scared of being ripped off again buying a complete, I will just work with what I have.
 
Also I don't know if you are working outside or in a garage but do yourself a favor and spray some WD-40 (or another protectant) in the bores to protect the machined surfaces from rust. Some projects have a habit of changing courses or taking seasons to complete. I went to change head gaskets and then I noticed my flat tappet lifter was concave and my cam lobe profile has started to get rounded on one side. Now I needed to add that to my list of needed items. Now I have to take the front cover off. Now I need the water pump gasket and now I can change that black plastic chain guide that everyone talks about and I have to get a new timing chain. You get the picture, everyone on the board has done it a least once. Cleanliness and torque sequence.
I’m doing it in my garage.
 
Don't depend upon WD-40 alone. It will evaporate & allow rust to form.

I bought a gallon container of WD-40 & a plastic spray bottle with adjustable nozzle like you would use to mist plants. Mix the WD-40 50/50 with clean motor oil or assembly lube & pour into the bottle. Now you have a preservative with enough body to it that will last.
After having a career as a 'Tree Surgeon' for way too long(at least I am 'temporarily semi-retired' at this point LOL), I found that just about any 'SAE 30 Bar 'n Chain' lube for chainsaws works FANTAStIC making a Hi-tack universal lube when mixed about 50/50 with WD40 or similar. It 'hold on' ALOT better than regular motor oil and it is pretty thick(but still squirtable thru any old spray bottle). Good at the drill press, etc. or any place 'lube' is needed.
 
Thanks everyone for all the advice, and tips. I was gonna wait until the new heads and gaskets show up before I remove the existing heads but it sounds like I need to start in on it now to inspect other parts in the engine. I’m working on it in my garage so I’ll probably pull the engine and trans and put the motor on a stand. Just sucks I bought this set up from a member here for $3500 everything was supposed to be in great condition.
After I got it started the turbo blew oil straight through the center section at that point I figured the motor had been ran hard and neglected also. Lucky Me. I really would like to enjoy my car, scared of being ripped off again buying a complete, I will just work with what I have.
You are certainly not the only one that has been 'forced' to do your own work, for whatever the reason may be. It sucks when you're not into it and sometimes it seems you can run into more and more problems as the layers are peeled off. I am somewhat in the same situation to maybe a little lesser degree right now but I can see a total rebuild on the horizon for me just the same. The up side is the experience is priceless, you will have an exact understanding of the 'heart' of your beloved ride, and as goofy as it sounds, you may just enjoy the process(or certain parts of it) quite a bit. Plus, when you're pulling mid-10s at the track with your own build the feeling like no other. Hang in there and don't hold the negative energy about the $3500. It'll only eat at you and perpetuate from my experience- look forward to hearing about the build, try and keep us updated
 
Thanks everyone for all the advice, and tips. I was gonna wait until the new heads and gaskets show up before I remove the existing heads but it sounds like I need to start in on it now to inspect other parts in the engine. I’m working on it in my garage so I’ll probably pull the engine and trans and put the motor on a stand. Just sucks I bought this set up from a member here for $3500 everything was suppose to be in great condition.
After I got it started the turbo blew oil straight through the center section at that point I figured the motor had been ran hard and neglected also. Lucky Me. I really would like to enjoy my car, scared of being ripped off again buying a complete, I will just work with what I have.

Hey man where in Norcal are you?

I am in the Bay Area myself, and I am actually about to pull off some heads for a customer's ride and we are going to send them down to Duttweiler to get them ported for about $500.

If you would like a helping hand, or someone to lend any guidance or drink beer while you do all the work- let me know and I'll be happy to come by and be of assistance!

Make sure to label everything you pull off. All the bolts, all the lines, even label where the sensor plugs go in case you aren't very familiar with the engine yet. It does take more time to do it this way, but when you are putting the motor back together it is far better to have your bolts labeled and know exactly where they go, then spend hours on the internet trying to figure out what bolt goes on the EGR solenoid that mounts to the valvecover, and what size nut is for the EGR itself...you get the picture..

Since you will be pulling the heads off, I'd also recommend getting them ported. You don't need to spend $1,500 and wait 8 months (ask around about the wait time for Champion Heads) for your heads to arrive. Find a good head porter (Dank GN above is a good dude, or Kenny Duttweiler is who I will be using for my customer) and have them do a simple 3 angle valve job and clean up the short turn radius. The heads don't need much work to gain a lot of flow. It shouldn't cost you more than $600-$800 for a valve job and working the short turn radius. I would even spend an extra $80-100 or so, and have them port-match your intake manifold to the manifold gasket you intend to use, and to your heads. This way you make sure the airflow going into your motor is completely uninhibited.

If you'd like any help or have any questions on where to get parts locally (if you are in the Bay) feel free to hit me up.

-Tyler
 
You are certainly not the only one that has been 'forced' to do your own work, for whatever the reason may be. It sucks when you're not into it and sometimes it seems you can run into more and more problems as the layers are peeled off. I am somewhat in the same situation to maybe a little lesser degree right now but I can see a total rebuild on the horizon for me just the same. The up side is the experience is priceless, you will have an exact understanding of the 'heart' of your beloved ride, and as goofy as it sounds, you may just enjoy the process(or certain parts of it) quite a bit. Plus, when you're pulling mid-10s at the track with your own build the feeling like no other. Hang in there and don't hold the negative energy about the $3500. It'll only eat at you and perpetuate from my experience- look forward to hearing about the build, try and keep us updated
Thanks. And I’ll will post updates and I’m sue I’m gonna have more questions.
 
Hey man where in Norcal are you?

I am in the Bay Area myself, and I am actually about to pull off some heads for a customer's ride and we are going to send them down to Duttweiler to get them ported for about $500.

If you would like a helping hand, or someone to lend any guidance or drink beer while you do all the work- let me know and I'll be happy to come by and be of assistance!

Make sure to label everything you pull off. All the bolts, all the lines, even label where the sensor plugs go in case you aren't very familiar with the engine yet. It does take more time to do it this way, but when you are putting the motor back together it is far better to have your bolts labeled and know exactly where they go, then spend hours on the internet trying to figure out what bolt goes on the EGR solenoid that mounts to the valvecover, and what size nut is for the EGR itself...you get the picture..

Since you will be pulling the heads off, I'd also recommend getting them ported. You don't need to spend $1,500 and wait 8 months (ask around about the wait time for Champion Heads) for your heads to arrive. Find a good head porter (Dank GN above is a good dude, or Kenny Duttweiler is who I will be using for my customer) and have them do a simple 3 angle valve job and clean up the short turn radius. The heads don't need much work to gain a lot of flow. It shouldn't cost you more than $600-$800 for a valve job and working the short turn radius. I would even spend an extra $80-100 or so, and have them port-match your intake manifold to the manifold gasket you intend to use, and to your heads. This way you make sure the airflow going into your motor is completely uninhibited.

If you'd like any help or have any questions on where to get parts locally (if you are in the Bay) feel free to hit me up.

-Tyler
I’m in colusa county in a small town called Williams. It’s about 2hrs NW of San Francisco. I’ll pm you in a second, but we should meet definitely, I have several buddies with GNs near solano county.
 
I had enough I’m getting started now F it either way it can’t and shouldn’t be drivin. I’m gonna start pulling her apart. Decided to do this with the engine in the car.
 
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