Yes to mig. Tig would have been nicer but not within my capabilities. Welded it inside and out. Still had a few minute leaks that I fixed one at a time. After that I JB Welded the entire seam then sanded 95% of it back off. Kind of like bodyworking it for looks and to take care of any possible seepage. After that etching primer and wrinkle black paint.
Yeah, If you mount the original mounts on the crossmember, there would be about 8" between the engine and the firewall. The transmission kit came with a crossmember so I just bolted the motor/trans combo together then bolted in the trans crossmember, wherever the mounts ended up is what I went with.
Small update time. Had to overcome an obstacle with the linkage from the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder. Needed to do an offset, there was no way it would work otherwise. Good to go now. I also bolted up the TA Performance water pump. Shout out to Nick Micale (ArizonaGN) and TA Performance, the pump was a raffle prize from the Bates Nut Farm Buick Show earlier this summer. Thanks Nick and TA!!
A few updates to share. I go the Hydratech Hydro Boost installed with the trick Wilwood proportioning valve. I also removed the rear end and suspension and did some detailing including the bedliner on the underside. Finally, got some sweet rear brakes from Rick Elam (great guy), after working through some issues that included new Moser axles, it starting to look good. Next up is running the brake lines and then fuel system.
That's looking really good! That underbody coating will be great for noise deadening. It'll feel like a late model car.
Just curious; with the clutch M/C, is there any problem with side-loading due to the offset linkage?
It seems to go in and out really smooth but I know others have had issues so time will tell. If I hadn't done the offset then it definitely would not have lasted. I have a short video of the clutch operating but not sure how to post it ??