1987 Original Long Block Engine with 27,000 Miles!

Legitly67

New Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
If I were to buy this engine what should I do first? Engine is still in the car. Car was totalled. Never been opened period! What should I do, open the engine or leave it closed and just install it? What would you guys do exactly please? What would you say is a good price for such a engine?
 
I will not be at ANY drag running this car. It will be a weekend driver only. I am sure on down the road I would like to add a few mods of course, but nothing to much!
 
How long has it sat there............unoiled..........not turned over...........condisating internially..........rusting internially.........unused? Just the way I see LOW MILEAGE older powerplants. Please let us know. This motor IS usable just need more info. Jon Hanson
 
How long has it sat there............unoiled..........not turned over...........condisating internially..........rusting internially.........unused? Just the way I see LOW MILEAGE older powerplants. Please let us know. This motor IS usable just need more info. Jon Hanson
I belive it hasn't really sat for any real time period! It was in the car when it was hit in the rear, Car was fixed but never finished.
It was started and moved around periodically and still runs to this day and can be heard running.

Completely stock!
Hasn't been started in a couple months and will fire right up, NO noise, NO smoke. actually real quiet!

Un-oiled = No
Not turned over = No, Turned over quite often, runs great!
Condensating internally = No
Rusting Internally = No
Unused? = Meaning street driven? It's ben started and moved around!
 
What this is, is a good running, solid engine, NO noise, NO smoke orriginal 27,000mi engine completly stock and un-opened.


Some of the best ones iv'e seen have been Un-Opened! What do you guy's think?

I know it's hard to find them Un-Opened these days!


This Engine is from Vacuum block to Oil pan complete long block (heard running).. ;)
 
Guy's 97 views? No responce?, This guy is new to the buick comunity and is asking for your oppinion on the engine explained in my prior posts.

Please read his orriginal thread and my posts and help him out please.

Thanks!
Scot W.
 
Not sure what its worth but I would jump on it, I personally would open it and replace ALL gaskets and seals, then fill it with Rotella and change it every 500 miles for 3 or 4 changes:cool:
 
If it runs good, has good compression, and all checks good it's worth at least $3k. Maybe more.

If it checks good I'd drop it in and let it eat. But that's just me.
 
I would offer between $1500-$2000.complete motor.more than that I would just do a rebuild.
 
From what I've read on here, GM did a great job putting the heads on and making them seal. I would not remove the heads at all! Just remember to get rid of the stock timing chain and get a double roller. $1500 sounds fair to me. RJC power plate, 60lb injectors, Alky and a Turbo Tweak chip would be my mods. Oh and a cold air kit, Rotella oil from now on, and new valve springs. It should make good power and still be reliable.
HTH
 
I would probably just replace gaskets and seals (if they are not leaking now they probably will once you start driving the car). If it HAS been started periodically and runs fine then pay what YOU think it is worth and put some miles on it! GOOD LUCK!
 
Thanks Guy's!!

He just bought his dream car (Grand National) He was told it was "ALL ORRIGINAL" and got it home last weekend and only got to put 20mi on the car and now a nasty rod or crank and while under the car he noticed a "jaspers" sticker on the block :eek: (so much for "all orriginal"). He don't really want to have the down time for a rebuild as he wants to enjoy the car (Don't blame him!). I personally know this 27,000mi engine and I plan on doing the engine swap for him after I return from reynolds so he can drive his car and enjoy it..

After the swap we will work on up-dating the fuel system first along with scanmaster & gauges and a good spring cleaning...

Scot W.
 
I wasn't trying to bash this deal I've just been on the short end on the stick. If this motor has been and still is started and running then sounds like you have a deal to make. I just try to let folks know how bad it CAN be but sounds like you may already know that. I wish you the best of luck on the motor swap. Let us know if you need anything. Oh.....Buy new motor mounts and do the tranny mount while your there. Jon Hanson
 
I would definetely do the motor mount swap while I was doing this.

Scot is a very knowledgeable guy and can handle the swap with no problem.

You will know pretty quick what ya got!

I would also get a scanmaster on it asap!!!
 
Sounds like a good swap to me! I wouldn't open any of the top end, although I might take the pan off to look around a little. I don't think I would pull any caps unless you see something odd.
Scot's good people if you're having him do the work. Always pays attention to the little details, etc.
 
From what I've read on here, GM did a great job putting the heads on and making them seal. I would not remove the heads at all! Just remember to get rid of the stock timing chain and get a double roller. $1500 sounds fair to me. RJC power plate, 60lb injectors, Alky and a Turbo Tweak chip would be my mods. Oh and a cold air kit, Rotella oil from now on, and new valve springs. It should make good power and still be reliable.
HTH

Yup- that 8 bolt machine is a wonder; unless you and 7 of your friends can torque as a team, it can't be beat!
 
Thanks for the props guy's! I think he will be really happy when this is done.

He's taking the right steps and buying the right parts to make a nice dependable quick street car..

I will be installing the 27,000mi engine and a known good turbo..
and this stuff will be done.

New:

Timing chain
water pump
160* T-stat
Rear main seal
External Oil cooler
42.5lb injectors - (cleaned & match flowed)
Razors alky kit
New fuel pump
Hot wire kit
scanmaster
gauges
Autolite 24 plugs
New plug wires
Turbo tweek chip


Next Possibles:

3" D/P
3" Dual exhaust
Dusty bradford converter
Trans up-grades


That should make for a fun & reliable street car... :smile:



Scot W.
 
Update on Bill's Swap!

Well I picked up his new engine and pulled his old one.

This is the progress so far in just two weeks worth of work.

1) Pulled the old engine
2) Got the new one on the stand
3) Replaced Rear Main seal
4) Replaced timing chain with a double roller.
5) Replaced water pump
6) Relaced all the valve springs
7) Replaced the intake valve stem seals
8) Replaced the injectors
9) Installed a RJC power plate
10) Stripped, Cleaned & Painted the Intercooler
11) Stripped, Cleaned & Painted the Block
12) Stripped, Cleaned & Painted the valve covers
13) Stripped, Cleaned & Painted the up-pipe
14) Cleaned & Painted the Intake & Dog house
15) Stripped & Painted the Fuel rail, and ALL brackets
16) Cleaned the T/B
17) Installed the new Oil & Water temp sensors for his new gauges
18) Removed the radiator/ Had it flushed & Cleaned, re-installed it
19) Installed new trans lines
20) Installed new (Autolite 24's) plugs
21) Installed all new vacuum lines
22) Installed new T-stat (160*)
23) Installed new PCV valve
24) Installed a ACUFAB fuel regulator
25) Installed Scanmaster
26) Removed the stock D/P & Cat
27) Installed the engine into the car and now doing the hook up's right now.

Things left to do:

1) Install 3' DP
2) Install & hook up 4 gauges
3) Install pillar gauge pod & counsol gauge pod
4) Install ALKY kit & TT alky chip
5) Install intank fuel pump & hot wire kit
6) Install dual air bags

I plan on starting the engine by this weekend before most of the above things left to make sure everything is right and it runs good. Then I plan to do one thing at a time to make sure it keeps running right after each change. Easyier to go back on and figure out that way...


Here are some berfore and after pics & some progress pic's


Scot W.
 
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