1986 T-Type question

[rbarragan]

Hello guys,

I am not new to Turbo Buick’s as I have a couple but I have never purchased one that hasn’t run for a while. I stumbled across a ad for a V6 engine in the process of asking questions to figure out if it was a 109 block, he said “why you have a T-type?” I said I did and we began talking , he mentioned he had a 86 T-Type with “all the performance stuff” I asked if he would be interested in selling he said he was.

Now comes my question:

What checks can I do on the car to ensure the engine isn’t blown or wounded? Obviously a compression test but it’s been sitting for over 4 years. Just wanted to see if the community had any suggestions. I have included a pic of the engine. I see it has Alky, a translator and that’s all I can really notice. What do you guys think?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Did he say why it’s been sitting for 4 years?
Did you come up with a price for the car?
If it’s cheap enough it may be worth the risk as is, if he wants running car value then it changes things. If you get it running before you buy it he may want more for it if it’s something that’s easy to fix. Sometimes it’s better to just buy it as is if the price is right. What is he wanting for it?


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[rbarragan]

The reason it has been sitting that he told me is he bought it this way. Has no idea about turbo Buick’s , but never got around to it because he has a lot of projects. He has decided to sell due to him loosing his shop. The price is great in my opinion. Definitely priced well for it not running. Let me ask you what would you pay? I added a pic of the exterior. These are the only pics I have at the moment. I go and look at it on Monday. It is a low option car, bench seat , column shift no power windows.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

It is hard to put a value on cars that need body work and aren’t running. I have learned to look for low mile garage kept cars that don’t have any rust. You pay much more up front but Things add up quick with these cars and a great deal can end up costing more in the long run because of the money you have to put in paint, body work, interior and building the drive line. From that pic looks like it’s going to need paint and body work. Sadly that car might be worth more parted out than whole and that’s not something I would ever do. Since he’s had it 4 years he probably paid $2500 for it.


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[Chuck Leeper]

Did he say why it’s been sitting for 4 years?
Did you come up with a price for the car?
If it’s cheap enough it may be worth the risk as is, if he wants running car value then it changes things. If you get it running before you buy it he may want more for it if it’s something that’s easy to fix. Sometimes it’s better to just buy it as is if the price is right. What is he wanting for it?


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^^^ What Scott said.
My opinion, just seeing what the exterior looks like: $3000

 

[grass doctor]

so it doesn't run, hopefully it at least turns over ???

 

[rbarragan]

Taking a battery with me to see if it turns over.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Would not do that unless u pull cam sensor and prime oil pump first


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[grass doctor]

how else can you check that , can you turn the crank by hand??

 

[grass doctor]

would pulling the plugs out and changing the oil be a safe thing to do

 

[ScottHeidinger]

With a cordless drill in 15 min I can prime oil pump. Just need some blood in its veins before u turn it over.


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[salvageV6]

Change the oil/filter and crank it.

Pull the plugs and do your comp. test and see what they look like, check for spark etc.

If it's the engine in the first pic. it's a lot cleaner than my running rusty old WE4.

It will probably run with a bit of diagnostic work and draining the tank and checking the fuel system etc. Make sure there's some gas in it if you're gonna be cranking it over or you will definitely be replacing the fuel pump first.

4 years isn't that long sitting and it has some good parts, translator etc.

 

[Anthony P]

like @salvageV6 said, and I'll add to that...some may shake their head at the following, but whatever...

for engines that have sat awhile....

1. drain crankcase oil and replace oil filter.

2. it takes 22 quarts of oil to fill the pan and block to submerge the lifters and cover the cam. off to Wally-mart for some SuperTech 10W-30.

3. while the engine is bathing in new oil, remove spark plugs and deliver few seconds spray (maybe 3-5) of WD-40 to the cylinders via the spark plug hole. Use any tubing available to deliver the WD, even a foot-plus long piece of the outer jacket of Romex wire makes a good tube. it's better than trying to angle the can and red plastic nozzle extender and spraying everything else but getting WD on to the cylinder walls.

4. disconnect the single orange wire behind the battery that provides power to the ECM.

5. disconnect the connector for the fuel pump sender harness just below the rear bumper at the tank.

6. Drain the crankcase and refill with 5 quarts.

7. Crank the engine a few times for maybe a five count to get the assembly moving oil and moving oil to the turbo.

8. Re-install spark plugs.

9. If car was stored will a full gas tank, it's a bit much to attempt to purge the tank of the old gas using a drain line to the fuel rail (remove schrader valve) and a bunch of cans operating the fuel pump with the primer connector (black single wire out of the loom at AC lines at rear/side of compressor. Green connector is tach connector for service tool) . if less, maybe drain tank and refill with 5 gallons of fresh gas. Re-install schrader valve and rail cap if removed.

10. Re-connect orange wire and fuel pump harness connector. could verify TPS setting and coilpak since car's been sitting.

11. Turn ignition to "KEY ON" and listen for fuel pump prime. then attempt to start the engine and bring her to life again.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

like @salvageV6 said, and I'll add to that...some may shake their head at the following, but whatever...

for engines that have sat awhile....

1. drain crankcase oil and replace oil filter.

2. it takes 22 quarts of oil to fill the pan and block to submerge the lifters and cover the cam. off to Wally-mart for some SuperTech 10W-30.

3. while the engine is bathing in new oil, remove spark plugs and deliver few seconds spray (maybe 3-5) of WD-40 to the cylinders via the spark plug hole. Use any tubing available to deliver the WD, even a foot-plus long piece of the outer jacket of Romex wire makes a good tube. it's better than trying to angle the can and red plastic nozzle extender and spraying everything else but getting WD on to the cylinder walls.

4. disconnect the single orange wire behind the battery that provides power to the ECM.

5. disconnect the connector for the fuel pump sender harness just below the rear bumper at the tank.

6. Drain the crankcase and refill with 5 quarts.

7. Crank the engine a few times for maybe a five count to get the assembly moving oil and moving oil to the turbo.

8. Re-install spark plugs.

9. If car was stored will a full gas tank, it's a bit much to attempt to purge the tank of the old gas using a drain line to the fuel rail (remove schrader valve) and a bunch of cans operating the fuel pump with the primer connector (black single wire out of the loom at AC lines at rear/side of compressor. Green connector is tach connector for service tool) . if less, maybe drain tank and refill with 5 gallons of fresh gas. Re-install schrader valve and rail cap if removed.

10. Re-connect orange wire and fuel pump harness connector. could verify TPS setting and coilpak since car's been sitting.

11. Turn ignition to "KEY ON" and listen for fuel pump prime. then attempt to start the engine and bring her to life again.

So you think 22 quarts of oil submerging everything in oil makes more sense than priming the oil pump? I’m not opposed to changing the oil and them priming the oil pump but the process you listed here is going to take way longer. Car probably just has a bad fuel pump, relay or ECM fuse so far...


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[grass doctor]

now my question is can you still turn the crank by hand just half or full turn just to see if motor is seized or not , pulling plugs of course and shooting wd or penetrating oil in there, before doing all that just to see if its locked up,

 

[grass doctor]

I've done to an old hemi that sat for 20 years and could also see if rotor was turning to check timing chain,

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Yes you can turn it by hand and you go that route I would pull the plugs and spray the cylinders down first.


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[grass doctor]

10/4 just to check, but I don't know as much as you guys about these very sensitive motors especially because most of them have been run hard without knowing history, great info thx for the lesson , I love learning even if I ask stupid questions

 

[Chuck Leeper]

4 years isn't that long sitting and it has some good parts, translator etc.

4 sec's is a lifetime, if the lower end is toast.

 

[Anthony P]

So you think 22 quarts of oil submerging everything in oil makes more sense than priming the oil pump? I’m not opposed to changing the oil and them priming the oil pump but the process you listed here is going to take way longer. Car probably just has a bad fuel pump, relay or ECM fuse so far...

Hi Scott, for an engine in the car, I find it easier to bathe it in oil. Not everyone has a tool (home-made or purchased) to engage the oil pump gear shaft via the cam sensor hole to prime via cordless drill. And not everyone has a cam sensor tool to set it up again once removed. Even if the sensor position was scribed before removal, it's still a good idea to verify the setting. So instead of messing with the cam sensor, I posted a simpler process of draining and filling and draining and filling the crankcase.

The car may not have any problems. just want to make sure the rotating assembly, valvetrain and turbo have a fresh oil bath before firing the engine.

if the engine was sitting out of the car, do an oil change and rotate the engine on a stand to move the oil around before firing on the stand.