140A Impala Alternator & Volt Booster

Jerryl

Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
I recently switched to a 140A Impala alternator, and voltage output is very good. Logs indicate that the VB is no longer working as before. Only change was the alternator. VB works on the bench.

Anyone seen this before?
 
I removed the alternator and will be rebuilding/replacing with the stock unit.
Thanks to @getdowngranny for the insight at TB Nats.
 
Jerryl can you let us know whats up with the Impala SS Alternator and what was causing the issue?
Also are you doing a stock rebuild on the alternator or are you upgrading parts?

thanks
aaron
 
Jerryl can you let us know whats up with the Impala SS Alternator and what was causing the issue?
Also are you doing a stock rebuild on the alternator or are you upgrading parts?

thanks
aaron
Aaron,
I "think" the alternator may have been set-up for internal sensing, so the VB would not work. Worked fine otherwise and logged about 13V @wot. Not sure if my suspicion on the sensing that is correct, but returned the alternator since I was 1 day away from the 30 day return policy.

I am not upgrading, and simply looking at rebuilding to stock specs, or replacing with stock unit. I have lots of questions on parts for rebuilding, as I remember reading that the stock 86-87 alternator used "special parts" (????)

Interestingly, I started taking the stock unit apart last night to evaluate, and while the rotor spins freely in the case, it won't come out of the back end . . . . It's definitely stuck. (Groove/Brushes?)
 
Try returning it and replacing it with another of the same unit. It may work. I still think that they incorrectly configured your unit for the application. I have used the Impala alternators for years and have never come across this issue.

BTW I had an awesome time hanging out with you and the other Texas guys. You are a great group of guys.
 
Aaron,
I "think" the alternator may have been set-up for internal sensing, so the VB would not work. Worked fine otherwise and logged about 13V @wot. Not sure if my suspicion on the sensing that is correct, but returned the alternator since I was 1 day away from the 30 day return policy.

I am not upgrading, and simply looking at rebuilding to stock specs, or replacing with stock unit. I have lots of questions on parts for rebuilding, as I remember reading that the stock 86-87 alternator used "special parts" (????)

Interestingly, I started taking the stock unit apart last night to evaluate, and while the rotor spins freely in the case, it won't come out of the back end . . . . It's definitely stuck. (Groove/Brushes?)

Thanks for the response Jerryl. I use a Impala SS unit and just wanted to know what was up. I've contemplated using a Volt Booster but not sure it would get along with my Alky.... i'm sure i could probably tune it "out" and remove some fueling when the voltage spikes but also iiRC reading that Julio didn't recommend voltage boosters with his kit.

Are you running Methanol injection?

aaron
 
Thanks for the response Jerryl. I use a Impala SS unit and just wanted to know what was up. I've contemplated using a Volt Booster but not sure it would get along with my Alky....
Are you running Methanol injection?

aaron
Yes. I have been running my own custom build system for 2+ years.
 
I had a stock replacement alt that would not boost last year. It turned out to be the Chinese (sorry Jerryl:)) voltage regulator. I got some part numbers from RC and have been rebuilding my own since. Usually brushes and regulators are all they need, but all the parts are dirt cheap.
 
Chinese parts can definately suck. I have worked in a global sourcing role and understand the challenges.

I am having the stock unit rebuild with heavy duty diodes and rectifier. Should be done tomorrow.
 
Rebuilt locally.
 

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man for some reason I have 2 cs144's acting the same way 1 I rebuild with high output regulator and high output rectifier all the good parts it charges when ever it wants when it is charging it' 14.5-14.7 at the alternator inside on the scanmaster at the same time 12.5-12.7. and when it's not working right I get 12.5-12.7 at the alternator but inside I get 10.5-9.5 volts??????? any ideas ?
 
man for some reason I have 2 cs144's acting the same way 1 I rebuild with high output regulator and high output rectifier all the good parts it charges when ever it wants when it is charging it' 14.5-14.7 at the alternator inside on the scanmaster at the same time 12.5-12.7. and when it's not working right I get 12.5-12.7 at the alternator but inside I get 10.5-9.5 volts??????? any ideas ?

I am seeing somewhat of a similar issue now.
The shop that rebuild the alternator asked me specifically about my year/model to rebuild to factory spec., which gave me confidence. I now noticed that the charging light would flicker while driving about 2% of the time so I went through the wiring.
Everything checked out good. Charging voltage confirmed to match at alternator/battery/XFI 13.8-14.1 while running of course.

Fast forward to this week . . . pulling the alternator out and dropping the junk back off at the shop.
I may just purchase parts from @Steve V , do it myself, and be done. Cheap China crap is causing a lot of unnecessary problems.
 
I am not upgrading, and simply looking at rebuilding to stock specs, or replacing with stock unit. I have lots of questions on parts for rebuilding, as I remember reading that the stock 86-87 alternator used "special parts" (????)

The diode bridge is different:

AlternatorDiode.jpg

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
The diode bridge is different . . .
Thank you very much.
Have stock parts on the way.

The shop installed "heavy duty" parts in the alternator. Going to ass-u-me that it's related to the diode bridge? Any feedback on HD parts, or stick with Delco stock replacement?
 
Thank you very much.
Have stock parts on the way.

The shop installed "heavy duty" parts in the alternator. Going to ass-u-me that it's related to the diode bridge? Any feedback on HD parts, or stick with Delco stock replacement?

I rebuilt my own with a 200 amp stator and rectifier bridge that was rated for the extra amperage along with a new brush box. Don't remember the parts being that expensive. I took it one step further and converted it to 19 volts charging for my 16 volt system. The alternator pulley is sized correctly to keep it at or below critical max RPM at the highest possible engine speed and for a stage 2 engine that can be high.

Regardless of what some may think about 200 amps being overkill, It is never considered that the higher amperage alternators will charge more at idle speeds that the regular duty alternators. When running aftermarket electric water pumps and high speed fans and big fuel pumps then it starts to matter.

Interesting story - Back in my younger days(25+ years ago), I bought a re-man alternator from a known chain store. This was a GM style alternator for another car I had at the time. The alternator never charged good and I remember taking it out and took it apart myself and brought the rectifier, regulator, and brush box components to a local alternator rebuild shop to get new replacements. When I put the parts on the counter the experienced old man quickly identified the parts as being from a re-man alternator. I was a little surprised as to how he knew this but he then explained to me that when they reman alternators they disassembling all the parts from the cores that are returned, test the components, bead blast what is good and to be reused and throw the known working components into kanban bins to be selected for the next rebuild. The bead blasted parts made them identifiable to the old man. So basically a reman alternator has parts from various cars with millage and history unknown, and in my opinion fail at any time. The same old man told me he also could by those same parts and are really cheap but the new parts were not much more and made no sense to mess with the used crap. So what I have learned is never to buy anything reman...........

AG.
 
I rebuilt my own with a 200 amp stator and rectifier bridge that was rated for the extra amperage along with a new brush box. Don't remember the parts being that expensive. I took it one step further and converted it to 19 volts charging for my 16 volt system. The alternator pulley is sized correctly to keep it at or below critical max RPM at the highest possible engine speed and for a stage 2 engine that can be high.

Regardless of what some may think about 200 amps being overkill, It is never considered that the higher amperage alternators will charge more at idle speeds that the regular duty alternators. When running aftermarket electric water pumps and high speed fans and big fuel pumps then it starts to matter.

Interesting story - Back in my younger days(25+ years ago), I bought a re-man alternator from a known chain store. This was a GM style alternator for another car I had at the time. The alternator never charged good and I remember taking it out and took it apart myself and brought the rectifier, regulator, and brush box components to a local alternator rebuild shop to get new replacements. When I put the parts on the counter the experienced old man quickly identified the parts as being from a re-man alternator. I was a little surprised as to how he knew this but he then explained to me that when they reman alternators they disassembling all the parts from the cores that are returned, test the components, bead blast what is good and to be reused and throw the known working components into kanban bins to be selected for the next rebuild. The bead blasted parts made them identifiable to the old man. So basically a reman alternator has parts from various cars with millage and history unknown, and in my opinion fail at any time. The same old man told me he also could by those same parts and are really cheap but the new parts were not much more and made no sense to mess with the used crap. So what I have learned is never to buy anything reman...........

AG.
Well said. I have been running a new GM alternator on my car since I did a frame off in 2006. I noticed at idle now with dual fans, electric water pump, and big weldon fuel pump, voltage at idle is 12.7. Got a stock car in my garage, 13.5 to 13.7 idle. Even with a volt booster and turning the fans off at WOT, I only see 13.7 volts.
 
I rebuilt my own with a 200 amp stator and rectifier bridge that was rated for the extra amperage along with a new brush box. Don't remember the parts being that expensive. I took it one step further and converted it to 19 volts charging for my 16 volt system. The alternator pulley is sized correctly to keep it at or below critical max RPM at the highest possible engine speed and for a stage 2 engine that can be high.

Regardless of what some may think about 200 amps being overkill, It is never considered that the higher amperage alternators will charge more at idle speeds that the regular duty alternators. When running aftermarket electric water pumps and high speed fans and big fuel pumps then it starts to matter.

Interesting story - Back in my younger days(25+ years ago), I bought a re-man alternator from a known chain store. This was a GM style alternator for another car I had at the time. The alternator never charged good and I remember taking it out and took it apart myself and brought the rectifier, regulator, and brush box components to a local alternator rebuild shop to get new replacements. When I put the parts on the counter the experienced old man quickly identified the parts as being from a re-man alternator. I was a little surprised as to how he knew this but he then explained to me that when they reman alternators they disassembling all the parts from the cores that are returned, test the components, bead blast what is good and to be reused and throw the known working components into kanban bins to be selected for the next rebuild. The bead blasted parts made them identifiable to the old man. So basically a reman alternator has parts from various cars with millage and history unknown, and in my opinion fail at any time. The same old man told me he also could by those same parts and are really cheap but the new parts were not much more and made no sense to mess with the used crap. So what I have learned is never to buy anything reman...........

AG.
Well said. I have been running a new GM alternator on my car since I did a frame off in 2006. I noticed at idle now with dual fans, electric water pump, and big weldon fuel pump, voltage at idle is 12.7. Got a stock car in my garage, 13.5 to 13.7 idle. Even with a volt booster and turning the fans off at WOT, I only see 13.7 volts.

Interesting, with mine at idle, fans on, water pump, and Aeromotive pro series at full speed I’m at about 17.5 volts at its lowest on a 19 volt regulator. I will pay more attention to the charging voltage again this time reconfirm the results but it seems to maintain some good voltage output so far.
AG.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Interesting, with mine at idle, fans on, water pump, and Aeromotive pro series at full speed I’m at about 17.5 volts at its lowest on a 19 volt regulator. I will pay more attention to the charging voltage again this time reconfirm the results but it seems to maintain some good voltage output so far.
AG.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I need to verify the volt booster is working. But I was planning on having my alternator upgraded over the winter.
 
Power of data.
VB confirmed to be working fine but the alternator is not reacting to the input.

Everything worked with the stock alternator and nothing was changed in that circuit.

Alternator is being rebuild again under warranty, AND, I have parts on the way to do it myself.
 

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