10pt cage and dash removal (or not)


New Member
May 12, 2021
I removed the AC because I'm running stage heads and didn't want to fight to get the valve cover off if it needs to come off.

Front and rear speakers are removed as well. The bars went right through the speaker holes. So all I will have is door speakers.

As soon as the car is wired and I'll be able to take pics of everything completed.
The folks that did my cage were able to save rear speakers.


Well-Known Member
Staff member
Jun 18, 2001
I would like to go behind the dash, but looking at it there is just not enough room in there to get a bar in and clear the windshield without just hacking the end of the dash off. I haven't been able to find pictures of anyone with a behind the dash installation on a gbody. Guess it's just not feasible. My second thought is to split the dash entirely at the steering column so that each half can come out some how so I can still access wiring and HVAC items behind it somehow.
I have done it both ways. First off with an 8.50 cert cage you do not need a dash bar and IMO it will make your life WAY simpler to not have one. I would not add the bar unless you plan to get a chassis cert under 8.50. Here is a pic of the bar I run in my old TSO car. While it takes some finagling the factory dash is removable.

I also included a pic of the removable dash I put in the 25.3 car I was building. It was a factory dash but it was a lot of work and cutting to get it done and the dash was actually moved back from its stock location by the time it was done.

IMO if you are building a car like this HVAC, stereos and all the factory wiring should be removed and something like an AutoArc switch panel and relay board installed. Again cleaner easier and way less headaches. If you stick to a 8.50 cert you can get away with keeping the factory dash and accessories.


  • 20150316_192742.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 15
  • 20140623_205956.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 14
  • IMAG0472.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 13
  • DCP_1979.jpg
    231.1 KB · Views: 14