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Sorry guys, these are sold.

Pending

Used set of ported irons with T&D rockers for sale. I originally purchased these here: Heads. Per the link they are supposed to be early Champion irons but have no markings that I am familiar with, maybe someone here recognizes the stampings on these. After I bought these they were switched...

Have already read through that info, nothing mentioned about measurements to determine what the limitations are of fitting disc brake hardware inside the rim. It's a simple measurement, and after trying multiple sources for this info I am no further than before.

Would anyone happen to know or be able to check the ID on these wheels, on the back(axle flange) side of the wheel? Wanting to verify these will have the clearance I'm needing before purchasing. Or, if someone happens to know these have more clearance than the stock steel wheels do?

Converted my first car to vacuum when PM was getting weak. Pulled parts from the junkyard for the swap. Used the cheapest rear shoes (non riveted pads) the parts store could get, which they didn't even stock so had to have ordered in. Set up normal, one long one short each side with S10...

Ran against of the Drag Pack Mopars at a Test n Tune about a week ago, it made a 10.25 @ 129 with a 1.38 60 ft.

Blanket here as well, have not noticed any issues from it being on the car.

Made some passes Friday, getting better:

There is a pressure limiting valve in the back part of the proportioning valve that limits the line pressure to the rear brakes to somewhere around 500 psi, give or take. If you can't find a way to get brake fluid flowing through that back fitting you'll probably need a new proportioning valve...

Try this: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/8485_trouble_shooting.htm

Option Word 1, bit 2. The open loop idle lean limit is currently set for 13.5:1, can try lowering that a bit if it gets better but is still somewhat rough.

Next easiest thing to try, assuming it is firing on all cylinders currently, is to set if for open loop idle and see how it runs.

Try setting Option Word 2, bit 1 and see how it runs. Keep in mind you will also need to adjust the radiator fan(s) turn on/off temperatures according to whatever thermostat you are running, your bin looks to be set up for a 195 stat currently.

His MAP and Boost indications appear functional on the WUD screen but nothing on the Trip and Diag screens for MAP reading, dual MAP options not set right/enabled? After looking at the bin I see the second MAP is enabled, is a 1 bar MAP wired up and installed?

PM sent

Is this potential flow obtained with the existing exhaust housing?

Look in the help section of your PL, there is a command to zero the MAP signal with key on engine off. There can be a certain amount of error to the reading depending on barometer on a given day, not a lot but 17 could really be closer to 16 or possibly 18....

Just out of curiosity, have you tried backing off the engine brace to see if the knock problem changes or goes away? I've never used one, so don't know how resilient the bumper is that contacts the frame.

You'll be fine, been running 91 and Methanol for years now. If your TT chip wasn't ordered for 91/alky you *may* need to adjust timing slightly.