Search results

You don't need to free air calibrate to be accurate the sensors have a trimming resistor that's used for calibration if your controller uses it innovate don't use it so has to be free air calibrated. aem is fine I've swapped them during tuning on the dyno reads just the same no matter the sensor...

Don't use any sealant that smells like salt and vinegar chips only use sensor safe stuff even on the inlet side of the engine it kills them fast.i run the lsu4.2 and lsu4.9 1 foot from turbo in a lot of cars no problems even with leaded Avgas .another thing that kills them is moisture when you...

Some cool in car launch videos 10.3 and 10.4 she's turned down on 18-19 psi so we don't get in trouble lol

Was a good post too.we just fitted a tunable AEM regulator due to upgrading to a bigger pump that the stock reg couldn't support the aem comes with 3 or 4 removable valve seats to tune the regulator to suit pump flow cool unit and very small works like a champ

If they are wire wound you are just measuring the resistance of the thin wire winding around the carbon core the spark ain't going down that thin little wire but it makes for good sales have really low resistance lol

Video of a 10.1 pass mad launch

New personal best for the black car 9.94 @ 132.51 told to slow down or go home so onto the trailer it goes

The worst thing with using an injector for alky injection is what cylinder is gonna grab the hit of meth and which are going to just grab air hence why alky kits are continuous flow so all the air is mixed with meth not rich and lean pockets of mix

All about efficiency a bigger turbo spinning at lower speed running in a more efficient area of the compressor map is already going to make lower backpressure and a cooler intake charge add a bigger rear wheel or housing that lowers backpressure more you end up with a lot more airflow potential...

Thanks mate I searched and found my answer so sad guess he had his reasons the black dog is bad for some

When did charlief1 pass away I wondered why he stopped replying rip big fella

You probably don't even need both on high speed at the same time.could run one of the ecu and the second off a temperature switch for when it gets to far above desired .Or build a time delay circuit so one starts moments after the other to stop the 60+ amp surge of both turning on

Will be the massive load hitting the alternator dragging the engine down .normally the iac will open when the fans are commanded and keep it idling it probably just needs more iac steps added for fan on in the tune

Kp60 Toyota starlet

2870lb on the line ready to launch just currently building my own car I'm sick of watching same combo in a 1700lb car lol

Got it on the dyno a while ago leaned it out up top and added 2 degrees of timing gained 50rwhp went 500rwhp on 20psi added 2 more degrees and pushed out a stock head gasket really need some mls to hold the cylinder pressure still more in it yet

Its mostly naptha (turpentine/mineral spirits) and a little kerosene easy to diy

You tried closing the plug gaps a touch .even a noisy snout on the charger or noisy bearings in the unit can trigger the sensors and exhaust headers too close.they used to sell little beenies to go on the sensors to dull any harmonic vibrations effecting them

Just built a fresh ln3 same exact grind as last time but aftermarket roller lifters and ported heads it's an animal now

We just did ported heads on our 89 ln3 engine were a set of hand ported heads by my guy who knows the tricks and where to work no flow bench used 5 angle seats slightly larger valves and mostly bowl work no real upsizing of the port ..went from 10.50s@127mph on 23psi to 10.30s @130.9 on 18psi...