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The Digital Dash is now sold; all the other stock parts for sale. I also have the stock intercooler if someone wants. Shipped for $125.

I thought all the speakers were 10ohm and bought complete replacement set for this, and the door speakers upon removal are 4 ohm, at least what was in the car. If I can go 4 ohm w/door speakers I have a lot more options and will return the 10ohm version. I have the Bose Concert Sound II. Can...

thx!

REplacing my dash speaker bezel and putting in new speakers and there is this one sensor/wire that I have no idea what it is. Thoughts? TIA.

Sending unit sold; everything else still available.

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More stuff for sale for those that want OEM stuff, all taken off of a 50k mile car. Stock headers (no cracks to my knowledge) ($300 shipped), stock alternator ($60 shipped), stock starter ($60 shipped), stock fan ( $110 shipped), powermaster ($225 shipped), stock turbo (at least I think it is...

I have my stock digital dash that I've swapped out for the Dakota Digital retrotech. I'll never be going back. $275 shipped. I bought the racetronix pump with 0-120 ohm fuel sending unit for digital dash which didn't work with my dakota digital unit (put 0-90 in) so if anybody needs it I'll...

Well, problem sort of solved. Issue is that the spring release doesn't force the pedal back all the way out. If you pull the e-brake pedal w/your toe out after pulling the release, it will cause the mechanism to come into contact with the sensor and bend it under tension. I don't imagine I'll...

They're cheap; I have one today coming in by end of day for ~$6. But I'm still not sure how the device works if the ebrake isn't touching it before you push on it. But I don't have to understand it if replacing makes the light go away!

I'm sorry but I'm not really understanding this. My issue is I don't see how pressing the emergency brake pedal does anything to the current position of the switch. When the brake is off, the copper tab doesn't touch the arm, and depressing the pedal moves it further away. How does pushing...

When I did my frame off on my GN, I replaced all the e-brake cables. Now with everything hooked back up again, I had a steady brake light on the dash. Looking online suggested it might be the ebrake itself and I went down to the ebrake and I see that the copper end sticking down on the lever...

Ok gurus, can you ID both this three wire connector and the vacuum operated something on the passenger side fender?

I now have everything working properly and yes have run the car extensively (with a couple of drives around the neighborhood), and I am trying to work through all the punch list items while waiting to get it into paint. The fuel gauge reads properly and I set it according to the procedure...

I'm going to take the tank back down and pull the pump to change the digital dash sending unit to the regular analog style (which will work with one of the preprogrammed settings on my Retrotech dash (love it!). Do you have any guidance as to how I might be able to troubleshoot the check valve...

Does anybody have a picture of the two brackets that come in the OPGI kit to mount the relays? It's not intuitively obvious where those brackets mount. Thanks!

Could you share some of your pics (that are now disappeared of the Hawks 17 X 9 GTA style wheel). how do/did the fronts fit? I'm not concerned about the wheel spacers in the back, and I hate the look of the 18" ones that are out there--17" would be perfect.

I bought the kit from OPGI as it was the only one I could find, and It didn't have any directions like you find w/templates on Buickturboregal.com that was originally sold by Kirban. I'd like to be able to get those to be able to make my inner fender cuts as I want the vents functional...

I'm still old school Go Fast With Class!

Crutchfield recommended three speakers for the GN, see pic. Any feedback from you all?