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Thanks for all you did over the years David.

That is good news on SA Raceway possibly re-opening.

You know, Noah only had to deal with 40 days and 40 nights of rain. We're going on like 8 weeks worth here with more forecast for all next week. I'm gonna need a set of gills.

Weather's not looking so good. 80% chance of rain? I always trust the Weatherman.

Your location?

Yes, has C-Com CD and virgin O2 sensor. Have been keeping as a back-up but haven"t needed it.

I have one. 1986-87 Buicks. Box with interface adapter for Turbo cars factory wiring. New O2 sensor matched to box. $800/ shipped.

TX - Pat Hogan I'll be there.

I think you already got it figured out (not counting the booster swap). You could raise the front end and check if one side isn't applying or not retracting when released. If front brake hoses are original or very old, could be time to replace or upgrade to stainless. Also check caliper action...

Phil, I'm coming. Bringing my brother's grey T, the mhogan6 car. I've dialed it back some so I can drive it. See you up there.

May meet you guys at Love's. Depends on how early I can get out of San Antone. Driving a black Avalanche pulling the grey mhogan6 car.

Thanks for the kind words guys. Eticket (John Nguyen) was there for Mike in the end and helped ease the pain with his visits. Can't say enough about John. I will definitely be getting Mike's car out and about. I know I won't be able to drive it like he could but I'll try.

Mike Hogan, mhogan6, from Cedar Park, TX, has passed away. He had a rare neuroendocrin form of cancer that took him on the big end. He was Stage IV cancer for over 5 years and hung on as long as he could. I ain't never met anyone as tough as him. His 1987 Gun Metal Grey Turbo Regal was a fine...

Kitco price: Apr 08, 2011 17:15 New York time $40.93 SILVER ROCKETS!!! To da moon. "By tonight, that'll be cheap."

Just a note on correct terminolgy folks: the primary shoe is actually the shorter one. The longer shoe, goes rearmost on the vehicle, is called the secondary shoe. I guess I'm kinda like the grammar police, huh?

Pickle fork (the small one for tie rods, not the big one for ball joints) and the big hammer should do the trick. Maybe spray some PB Blaster and let it soak for a while, then beat the fork in until it won't go anymore and then tap (beat) on the side of the hole in the center link to help break...

I'd be a bit concerned about false knock showing up.

Maybe clean the ribbon strip of electrical circuits with a pencil eraser after you pull the speedo head out. Also, as TWISTER says, pay close attention to the charge circuit bulb and the connector it fits into, as the alternator will not charge without it completeing the circuit.

Harland Sharp 1.65 ratio in excellent condition. $400/shipped to you.

Pop it into nuetral (carefully) at the speed the vibration occurs and see if it changes. In nuetral you would be eliminating most of the drive train items, like drive shaft/u-joints, engine/trans mounts/vibrations, etc. I'd take a close look at the trans rubber mount and make sure it's not...