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CAR IS NO LONGER FOR SALE

**6/29/18 update** I will freshen up the motor at no cost on my labor if the buyer wants to pay for the parts/machining. The engine as-is has 118-130 psi compression (cold test), and leakdown is between 11-17% (cold test). Rings/bearings only ~$650 total +30 over pistons ~$1650 total

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It's not even noticeable this is a PTC 9.5, the best converter you can buy for Street and strip.

74k only

It's a shame to sell it, but there is no 1/4 mile track around anymore and San Diego is getting too congested. No where to really open her up and enjoy the power.

Only for dollar bills :)

Sorry, missed putting it in the ad, $17500 firm.

74k original miles. Original paint. $20k+ in upgrades. Perfect running condition. Engine Champion iron heads 210/215 roller cam Polished throttle body Billet vacuum block RJC power plate RJC IAC relocation block 6466BB turbo Turbo heat shields HR solid motor mounts Intake 4" RJC CAI Polished...

Works great, $180 shipped

SOLD to dale

Switching to external regulator, selling this one, has worked great for me. I will throw in these braided lines if you want them, they were made to connect to the stock TTA lines. I believe this is made by Kirban. $75 shipped, paypal

PM Sent to Turboelky

You can use this kit on a buick, it's all the same wiring.

Well, I'd be open to trading for a polished up pipe that doesn't have a hole in it for the nozzle. I just have a chromed 2.5" up pipe with hole drilled for the nozzle. Add $20 if you want the tank with low level sensor. (I have to buy a new overflow tank then)

Used complete Razor's progressive alky system $270 shipped. If you don't know what this is, you don't have a fast Buick ;) Pump is NEW rebuilt by Razor, never installed. Includes all wiring, controllers. dual color LED, as pulled from my TTA. Up pipe and tank NOT included in this price...

I'm also looking at upgrading to electronic boost control, but I have a THDP with internal wastegate. What is recommended for this setup?

I battled the brown coolant for a long time, finally swapped out the radiator and cut the old one in half. The bottom 3" of the radiator was clogged with a silt like brown mud.

I've never worked on a fuel tank before so didn't want to install/remove the stock tank 3 times because of mistakes :) I'm just trying to sort out if I'm going to run braided lines the whole way or try to do some hard lines up the frame rail.

I just bought an LS1 tank and going to have Lonnie's Performance put double pumpers in it. Seeing if anyone has already done this tank swap so I know who to ask for advice :)