Search results

cat and downpipe are identical to GN slip fit with identical clamp as GN flange on cat attaches to flange on Y pipe

motors are identical in c60 and c68 both systems have a single spade terminal for the motor the c68 has additional connections but they are not part of the motor

i have one of those cars with the original ecm and prom if you can't find what you need from someone else i will make a clone of the chip for you rc 336 684 3653

spare tire well and since they are captive inside the frame they are protected and really don't need to be secured where can they go ? they just need to be secured at each end one thing i will declare myself an expert at--audio in a GN

that port is what the computer opens and closes to pass air to control the turbo boost. It is just about the most important "port" underneath your hood. I have had owners come to me with blown head gaskets and guess what ? someone replaced the filter with a rubber block off plug--yikes! I have...

my experience has shown me that if the cam sensor is 180 out the problem you describe will be likely and will go away when the engine warms up. after you try all the above things give this a try. i give it a good chance of fixing the problem.

the trigger signal for the second relay should be sourced from the hob switch you do not want the high current to pass through the hobb switch as it will cause early failure as for the source of power for the second pump you can source it from the alternator or you can use the same power...

if your pump can produce 90 psi with the line pinched forget the electrical issue. Doing that puts more of a current demand on that pump than anything your hot air motor can ever do that alone is proof that your "hot wire" and the ground to the pump is more than adequate when the engine is...

as long as everyone keeps buying them they will keep on selling them several years ago i bought a sample from several of the vendors just to check out what thy were selling since i have a flow bench i can easily quantify how good they work without even putting them on a car NO VENDOR...

i always run the power wires thru the frame rails its full of holes where you can enter and exit what is the reason you want to run the wires inside the car? i can't seem to think of a good one

to those of us that know and understand the workings of the PM and can easily maintain them your comment makes as much sense as putting a carburetor on your car if you have turbo or injector problems..........no offense intended but the PM is not a complicated device but any sufficiently...

there are three fuses that can keep the PM from operating

read the post carefully ron was present for the second run test, engine was run for nearly an hour at various speeds and with double mufflers you could actually hear the injectors clicking and I commented on it to him

note to Ron Mooney your phone text implying that I am hiding something related to your lifters is rather crude. That I am "trying to think up a good lie" to explain why your lifters were not on your bill. Your engine has a flat tappet cam and most know that flat tappet cams don't cost nearly as...

i have never disconnected the battery to change a MAF totally unnecessary step unplug your maf and the engine will probably start and idle fine don't try to fix a idle problem due to the maf by messing with the IAC

I agree that the lightweight starters are really a good idea for our cars and I put a lot of them on customers cars. The light weight is a reason alone but you might be surprised to find that it probably doesn't spin the motor nearly as fast as the original heavy starter did. Several years ago...

no it doesn't matter especially on something made before the 60's

For those of you that are not familiar with bearing fitment here are some explanations: These pictures are the pictures of the upper and lower rod bearings that were removed from rods 1-6 and are numbered such. Each one has the thickness written beside it with the first decimal place omitted ie...

i realize that the method of of testing the coil pack with an ohmeter is mentioned in the GM manual. I can't imagine how that slipped into the book. That method is totally useless and will tell you nothing useful. You might as well get a bathroom scale and test the coils for weight ! The most...

Since Ron and his friend were sure the problem was a "rod knock" I started with a check of the rod bearings. Rods will make a knocking sound when the bearings or big end of the connecting rod become damaged or beat out of shape. This increases the clearance from the rod journal and causes the...