Recent content by slim86

sent you an e-mail from vwturbo19@yahoo.com let me know.

Rad to cooler to trans is correct. fluid coolers are the most effective way of cooling things especially if you have a 160* t-stat. I have my fan cooler under the pass front valance. I dont stand on the converter too much, but i've only heard it kick on 2-3 times after standing on the converter...

I'm going to piggy back on this, i'm running the GEN II translator, and have the same ATS stuck at 71*. Never had any problems, but it would be nice to have it working again....Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

PM sent for front pass. glass

Joel, just my .02 cents but it depends on how for off it is from side to side. do some "X" measuring and see what you come up with. I have seen plenty of older GM framed cars "G,A" bodies with imperfections. If i remember right GM let 1/8"-1/4" variances go as acceptable. 99% of chevelles lean...

front suspension Might have been the steering arm then, its been awhile...so are you saying that the A body stuff would be ok on the G body?

I will def be calling him monday he was a big help with my set up on the chevelle. I originally was going with the B body spindles for the 12" rotors at first on my chevelle, but mark told me that was even worse than the factory stuff with the adjustable uppers and tall ball joints that i ended...

I've done some searching on here and have only seen a few members mention converting the front spindles and brakes to "A" body stuff. So heres what i'm looking at, i am scrapping my 1970 chevelle project and would like to put what i have onto my buick. What do you guys think about putting SC&C...

supply cost Did one on a friends GN a few months ago...and if the steel wasn't leftover from my chevelle frame, it probably would have been around $100.00 or less if you are doing it yourself. I took a few ideas from some experts on here, made what worked for me. Used 1/8" sheet and basically...

Thank you nick for the advise, got me thinking big time now. I would prefer not to go that high of a stall as i like to drive on the street, and want to be able to keep it that way. So here's what im thinking; please correct me if I'm off track: with the 6765 or 6776 turbo, champion ported iron...

It was with the old converter, but the car couldnt get up out of its own way. I had planned on it with this new converter and was hoping for some much better times. with the D5 i had gotten a best of 13.0 at 103 with a 2.2 60ft. Now with the damage to the exhaust side of the TE-60 i figured it...

My current mods are in my sig, minus the converter; got a billet 9X11 3200 now. well put it in thursday, went for a short test drive and the turbo blew the seals, the wheel hit the housing on the intake side, and the exhaust wheel has a huge chip in one of the fins so i guess its new turbo time...

converter pm'd you

simple welding shop could cleanly put that back on and make it last for much less $$$

mine also had the pegleg, but has the aluminium drums:confused:WTF, I've got the NT555 275/50's, new set is 275/60 sitting in the garage now. fit great! look mean, and aren't too too bad in rain as long as now massive standing water is in the road. picked up the new ones for like 105 a piece...