Procedure is below from the atsg manual... but yes basically as you wrote. 1000rpms on the tach, foot on brake, test in each gear at min tv and then again at max tv.
The pressure port to use is on drivers side of trans above the shift linkage
Without knowing pressures its just guessing like others said above. Could also be a couple clicks too much on the tv cable but u really need to check pressures...
For a gauge I have the gearwrench/kd 3343d. Amazon has it for $39...
That czf is from a Monte Carlo SS. Wrenching with Phil on YouTube is rebuilding a czf too. I've been learning alot following his progress on the rebuild on his channel and from reading this forum.
In the first minute of the first video he shows the czf tag here
Why not try the rebuild...
I built a couple like 10-15 years ago too but got away from them. I guess the same techniques work but I'm doing another in my 'spare time' now and finding it hard to get some of the parts.
I've been re-learning a lot on this forum searching old threads but missing pics and also by watching the...
ok, but the springs seem to be pushing the weights out all the way at rest. I do see there's a gap of maybe 0.25 inch between the weights and the case bore when the gov is installed... and I can squeeze the weights inward... but I can't pull them outward. So is there some HUGE centrifugal force...
Newbie question so please educate me.
I thought when the governor spins centifugal force makes the weights go outward like that roundup amusement park ride that makes u stick to the wall the faster it rotates. But it seems like the weights are already out due to the springs pushing them out...
Wow, finally got the 200-4r in after building it for how many months... Seems to work great, firm shifts but not neck breaking. LOVE it! I would never have even attempted building it if it wasn't for the knowledge I found reading the posts on this forum :biggrin:
Just want to make sure all...
Thanks for the feedback. I wanted to make sure I was in the ballpark on the clearance and that I was checking it semi-correctly.
I had heard that if I could put the non-fluted part of a 1/16" drill bit(but not a 1/8" bit) between the holding ring and the servo cover I was ok on clearance...
Finally finishing this 2004r trans buildup. Using a new Alto red band with a CK Performance servo and trying to adjust clearance.
I have a dial indicator on the servo cover and pressing in on the servo with the J-tool. At the same time I'm checking whether the output shaft still turns with...
I'm cleaning and setting up the valve body on a CZ and dropped the 3-4 shift valve. Which direction does it install... like the top picture or like the bottom picture?
Thanks
using the way you wrote won't do what you want because... if you connect one side of the LED directly to ground you are simply showing whether the brake switch is on or not. The status of the solenoid doesn't matter then.
The green line shows what I mean. There is a path from + to - without...
Almost... but not quite there. What you have now is the brake switch turning on/off the LED regardless of the solenoid.
Do you have D (black wire) going directly to ground? It needs to.
If you want the LED to indicate the TC is locked you need to have it in the circuit. So, +12v to one lead...