Recent content by Coelacanth

Thanks for that, VIN7. I might well be going that route, too. I just want to rule out the easy stuff first.

I already mentioned I was having the late shifts problem BEFORE replacing the TV spring, dropping the pan and changing the fluid & filter. I followed the exact same TV cable adjustment procedure before the tranny service and after. The spring is supposed to be 1.90" and the one I put in is...

Thanks, I've read about the importance of testing and having the correct pressures. A pressure gauge will let you test the pressures, but how would you adjust the pressures? I don't see it mentioned anywhere in that topic you linked, but that was a good read, too.

Thanks Pronto. There are also 2 kinds on RockAuto, an ATP and Pioneer one, but both appear to be too short. 43" is the magic number. Strangely, the Pioneer CA1960 cable shows as being a correct fit for my car, but that must be a mistake.

Yes, I read through that site's articles on the 200-4R and TV adjustment many times, and printed out several of those pictures before dropping the pan and replacing the plunger spring, and verifying that WOT completely depressed the plunger flush with the plunger's bushing. It's a very good...

So, some additional observations from my test drive yesterday. With the TV cable at it's "correct" adjusted position, the car shifts very late. The gears aren't slipping, though. It just builds up too much RPM before it shifts. After all my research, "lengthening" the TV cable--by moving it...

TexasT, what I'm describing is the engine revs way too high before shifting...it almost doesn't make that 2 - 3 shift. The tranny isn't slipping at all, it just doesn't want to shift at the correct RPM. Everything I've been reading seems to point to this being a TV cable adjustment problem...

Because it's 33 years old. I was having the shift problem before replacing the spring. (In fact, that problem is what motivated me to do the tranny service.) With millions of compressions over the years, the original spring--which should be 1.90" long--was quite a bit shorter than a new one. I...

For the past few seasons, my '86 GN doesn't seem to want to shift properly. On hard acceleration, it really hangs onto the 2 to 3 shift, and does the same thing under normal acceleration...like it doesn't want to make that usual tire-chirping shift. Although the car doesn't see many miles per...

For some reason, the forum won't let me edit my posts after 10 minutes. Weird. Important EDIT above: I installed my drain plug a bit too close in line with my mounting bolt. I could still get at the tranny mounting bolt by unscrewing the inner drain plug and giving my 13mm socket a bit of an...

This summer was a write-off, weather-wise. It practically rained every day for 2.5 months. When your GN has T-roof weatherstripping that leaks and needs to be replaced, it means your car stays in the garage. I think I've had it out only twice all summer! I didn't have any performance upgrades...

I'll give this a last shot before I bite the bullet and buy a new one. Does anybody have a 3" stainless downpipe in good condition, that replaces the stock turbo elbow and has an internal wastegate? It would be similar to this one from TA Performance, but RJC Racing and other brands offer a...

The thread is quite outdated but figured I'd take a shot at the downpipe. Is it still available but the thread was never updated?

Thanks guys, it doesn't sound like I need to mod anything...all I've done thus far is block off the driver side vacuum port with a rubber cap for now, I'll use that port when I switch over to vacuum brakes. I've seen a lot of guys moving their vacuum lines from the block to the intake...

Hi guys, I bought one of the billet vacuum blocks from Kirban Performance, there are 2 kinds: #6796, and the one I chose, #6797. I polished it up really nice from the original machined aluminum finish. #6796 https://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/128/VACUUM+BLOCK+#6796.html #6797...