http://www.hydratechbraking.com/brakeunits.html
Unfortunately finding rebuilt units at parts stores has become problamatic. I have 2 units, one of theirs (expensive) and an old parts store booster.
I'd get the wheels straight (steering wheel at the 2:00 position) disconnect the steering shaft from the box, turn it until the wheel is straight and reconnect the steering shaft.
The only way I could get rid of the whine after I installed my Hydroboost over 20 years ago was to go with a larger resevoir designed for hydroboost. 8.25
My seat was bent and twisted for a long time not to mention the foam being worn out from 210 k of driving. When I reupholstered it last year I found the frame was cracked and I welded it. I got new foam 1614-Foam Seat Bun. Gbody parts lists them as well but they were out of stock when I...
I had this one. Say's 12v. That's what I did and it killed it. Got another one and used a 5v source and now it works fine. I think the instructions are wrong.
With stock wiring the fan comes on high for 3 things. 1- AC pressure above 300 PSI. 2-coolant fan delay relay after the car is turned off. 3-temperature above 226 deg. when the coolant temp switch comes on.
Pretty simple. I'm pretty sure you can do it without removing the case. I had mine out since I was replacing the ring and pinion. If you have to remove it make sure you don't mix up the shims on the sides of the case.
Depending on which hydroboost unit you have the seal around the piston that goes to the pedal push rod may not be replaceable at least that's what all the instructions say. Here's a link that shows the non rebuildable ones can be...