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TireFryer

The New Kid
Joined
Dec 21, 2001
Got the car out of storage today, Took a little log. Whats with the BLM's being so high at the end of the run? It's cold out so do i need to add more fuel even tho the chip autocorrects with the wideband? Let me know what you think of all the parameters.
 

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6.1 corrects to 10 percent. 5.7 you can add 20 percent either way...hence why I ran it up here. BLM's are high at WOT but normal at 120 at 820 RPM's. IAT's were 51...prolly underhood air. What was the ambient air temperature/humidity. Let me guess...you don't know. Get your sorry ass out to a hardware store and buy a cheapass digital thermometer/barometer.
 
6.1 corrects to 10 percent. 5.7 you can add 20 percent either way...hence why I ran it up here. BLM's are high at WOT but normal at 120 at 820 RPM's. IAT's were 51...prolly underhood air. What was the ambient air temperature/humidity. Let me guess...you don't know. Get your sorry ass out to a hardware store and buy a cheapass digital thermometer/barometer.
51° ambient air temp. 40% humidity. Intake doghouse was 62° when checked with temp gun when I got home. Air filter is in front of the passenger tire outside the engine compartment so it really qas taking in cold air. I’m not a complete fool with this car…
 
51° ambient air temp. 40% humidity. Intake doghouse was 62° when checked with temp gun when I got home. Air filter is in front of the passenger tire outside the engine compartment so it really qas taking in cold air. I’m not a complete fool with this car…
No you're not...and I'm not gonna pull any punches with anyone. My hunch is Eric sets his fuel at about 70 degrees. 20 years of racing tells me when the temperature gets to about 65 degrees and lower is when I had to start adding fuel. Humidity...cold dry air like yesterday...will suck a chip dry. Humidity trumps temperature and then some. That 6.1 chip only corrects 10 percent. Make a note of temp/humidity for each log. In spring in fall when the temps were cold in morning dial ins I'd add the whole 20 percent high gear fuel so I wouldn't grenade it. For my next two dial in runs I'd dial down the high gear fuel till I got it in the 770-780 for eliminations. For round 1 and beyond I'd note what the temp/humidity was to make a high gear fuel adjustment to keep it on its dial for each round. I'm being tough on you cuz I don't want you to blow it up like I've seen so many in the past have. There's ZERO room for error with these cars.
 
You're adding 5.5% WOT fuel in the chip already. Looks like it's maintaining your target A/F. Is your DC as you'd expect with your combo at that boost? I read a few blurbs about PLX and from what I read it doesn't need calibration? How old is the 02 sensor?
 
You're adding 5.5% WOT fuel in the chip already. Looks like it's maintaining your target A/F. Is your DC as you'd expect with your combo at that boost? I read a few blurbs about PLX and from what I read it doesn't need calibration? How old is the 02 sensor?
What’s “DC”? O2 sensor is a year old
 
Looks like 62% DC. Guessing partly it’s adding fuel as well because I forgot to turn the alky system on. Was watching knock and didn’t see any thing so I didn’t lift. I looked at the controller afterwards and noticed the knob was off.. oops.. it’s on now. I guess you can run a good bit of boost on 93 with low timing lol. Will take another run with the alky spraying and add some more fuel if it’s cold and post it up
 

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The 62-63% duty cycle with 80lb injectors at 21lbs of boost was why I asked. Seemed a bit high even with the 5.5% WOT via the chip. Yes, it was a clean run...no knock. Whew.

I chased high BLMs for a few months to come to find it was because I didn't calibrate the 02 correctly but I'm running LC-1 vs your PLX which is why I asked the question. I'm switching to AEM very soon.
 
I’ll take a look at the wideband calibration. The thing runs mint. Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak, but the FP rises 1:1 and stays rock solid. I have a hood mounted mechanical gauge so I know it’s accurate and the fuel pump (255) is a year old and it’s hotwired
 
I’ll take a look at the wideband calibration. The thing runs mint. Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak, but the FP rises 1:1 and stays rock solid. I have a hood mounted mechanical gauge so I know it’s accurate and the fuel pump (255) is a year old and it’s hotwired
A quote from Eric. 'Junk in equals junk out.'
A quote from Scoob. 'I changed the fuel pump in my car every spring as I figured it was cheap insurance against head gaskets.'
 
Try it again after turning the alky on and calibrating the O2.
 
I had an AFX WB in my car but it was constantly wanting me to recalibrate it. I knew KR would start to show in my engines around 750 so I just the left the 02's at 770-780. I left it in the car cuz it looked cool.
 
I had an AFX WB in my car but it was constantly wanting me to recalibrate it. I knew KR would start to show in my engines around 750 so I just the left the 02's at 770-780. I left it in the car cuz it looked cool.
Wideband Shows right on my scanmaster G. I’ll take the car out today and take another log with the wideband calibrated and alky
 
I didn't have an issue with the AFX wb when I ran that. I think I only recalibrated it once after I replaced the sensor.
 
I’ll take a look at the wideband calibration. The thing runs mint. Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak, but the FP rises 1:1 and stays rock solid. I have a hood mounted mechanical gauge so I know it’s accurate and the fuel pump (255) is a year old and it’s hotwired
Curious what the result is with alky turned back on. Thinking it will bring those BLMs down unless there's a volume issue or something up with the 02. I know you're seeing 1:1 on the gauge. I tried relying on that but around here there's a lot of congestion and trying to pay attention to the gauge at high boost was a challenge so I installed a transducer to log via P.L. I also installed a new FP gauge because it turned out the old one was defective. Point being now I have two sources of monitoring and they jive with each other vs depending on just one. Now that I know that, I keep the gauge back under the hood and use it to adjust FP and rely on PL to monitor via logs.

Did you find out if PLX does in fact require / have a calibration method? With LC-1 you have to go through a couple step process using the switch they provide. I went down a rabbit hole searching for a manual for PLX but the one I did read said no calibration required. I dunno.
 
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