New guy, Help me spec my resto build!

BagliviNY

New Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2023
New guy to the GN world and had a quick question. Bought an 87 GN with 5051mi, high option slicktop car, GNX rep wheels, car has been sitting for 10 years, climate controlled but hasn’t been started. As such, I’m in for full fuel system, fluids, maybe gaskets/hoses. I want to bump up a few things while I’m in it, but conservatively and had a few questions.

Currently the car has:

-Stock turbo, but previous owner states the “hot side was ported,” otherwise stock motor
-38# Blue Tops
-Unknown cone style intake
-Accufab fuel pressure regulator
-MSD plug wires
-Unknown chip
-Unknown intercooler modification (looks stock but prior owner remembers having done something)

So far I have ordered:
-GN1 3” Dual Exhaust
-GN1 3” Downpipe (internal wastegate)
-GN1 3” Cutout

Here’s where I need some guidance:
-Want to bump to a Turbo Tweak 60lb injector and chip combo. Is 60 overkill and can he tune for my current setup, maybe ~17psi?
-I’ll be replacing the fuel tank, and Holley makes a complete EFI kit with a 350lph pump. Seems like good insurance but will it work with current setup or overkill and should just go with a smaller in tank?
-Should I replace the fuel pressure regulator considering I’m doing the full fuel system, and is there a preferred brand (accufab, racetronix, etc)?
-AC Delco R42 or R43 plugs?
-Gaskets needed if nothing is leaking?
-Going to flush and refill ALL fluids. Planning full synthetic for all, unless you recommend otherwise.
-Toyo R888R 255/50r16s seem to be all that fit
-Do I need a Scanmaster?
-Do I need one of those turbo saver oil feed kits?
-Anything else considered a must do at this point?

I know that’s a lot, I appreciate any and all advice, I’m reading a ton but it’s a little tough to sort it all at once. Just want to get her running smoothly, making a little power, I’d be happy to crack a 12.9 at this point. Down the road, may bump up to a TA49 and more like 20psi but not this year.

Thank you all!

Alessandro
 
I think the issue, regarding slowing down, is I need to do this work to start the car and get it running. It’s currently sitting, I’d like to get it on the road to start driving or I’ve just invested in the world’s largest paperweight.

So this is just to make it functional, but I figure I may as well do some of these supporting mods since I HAVE to replace the parts I listed.
 
First and foremost, YES you defiantly need a ScanMaster! Then you need to know how to use the info it gives you to keep you from blowing your stuff up.

Other than that, all I can say is take it one step at a time.

Untested,wholesale changes usually result in unwanted and nasty results.

Do you know someone close to you that is familiar with these cars?
 
Honestly, I don’t. I’m on my own here, self taught car guy, no very close friends or family to assist. I do have a mechanic and speed shop owner who I’m friends with that will be doing the work, but he’s not a GN specialist per se. In laws are racers, but really a Mopar family.

I’m not trying to do it all at once, but again this car hasn’t turned over in a decade. So I have to replace the full fuel system at least, plus a “spring cleaning.” Is everyone suggesting I just attempt to replace the exact things that are there now? I really thought just nice injectors, AFPR, tank, pump and fluids. Just wasn’t sure how to handle chip and brands etc.
 
Where are you located ?? Someone that can help might be close by .
 
Honestly if the fuel tank and lines aren’t rusted or gummed up, replace the fuel pump with a 255lph pump.. you don’t need a Holley fuel system unless the whole system NEEDS to be replaced anyway. Fuel pump Hotwire kit, AFPR, 60# injectors and a turbo tweak chip would be a solid fuel system for a stock ish car. And of course you NEED a scanmaster.

Read this forum.. lots of info on the car and all the readings the scanmaster has to offer and what the readings mean.

Scanmaster page link> Scantool Readings

Main tech pages link> Technical Pages
 
Your name on here tells me you're from NY...plenty of knowledgeable guys from NY on here...and if they're close to you I'm sure they can drop by and have a look at your car.
There's a moron up in Canada that has vids on these cars. Rumour has it he's an American hiding in Canada as he has family in FL and GA. Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/@turbobuicks1015/videos

Order the 60's with Erics chip. You're in NY and it gets cold up there in spring and fall...and I know damn well you're gonna go WOT so tell him you're max boost is 18...it'll give you a fuel cushion in cold weather.

Drop the tank...clean it out...and throw a 255 pump in it. Racetronix sells a real nice pump and SS hangar assembly thats plug and play.

Car's been sitting. I'd recommend priming the oil pump to avoid a dry start.

Yes you need SM...fuel pump hotwire kit...new fuel filter...and an AFPR. Post some pics of the turbo when you get the DP off of the hotside and cold side. The guys on here will be able to nail down what turbo it is so you can tell Eric when you order the chip/injectors.

The rad is prolly full of shit in the bottom so it'll have to be pulled and cleaned out.

Post pics of the engine bay so we can figure out what you're dealing with.

Cam gear is nylon so the timing chain set is do to be changed.

Get a 2nd job.
 
Last edited:
Guys, this is all a huge help. Scooby Doo thank you for the breakdown. I’m located in White Plains, NY to answer that question. I’ll take better pics of the engine bay, and the turbo hot side when we pull the DP, here’s a couple quick ones from when I first saw the car:
BF016381-8A84-4D73-A658-98B001299D99.jpeg

59872CF0-C192-4C42-B1E7-D57A3C9406A8.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 7B874EEE-240D-4D91-8EF6-7E853203079C.jpeg
    7B874EEE-240D-4D91-8EF6-7E853203079C.jpeg
    299.4 KB · Views: 55
Turbo looks stock. Stock MAF...and they aren't reliable. If funds are available go with a Translator and a 3 inch LT1 MAF. The Powermaster brakes are original. Looks like an extremely clean car :cool: You don't need a turbo saver...just change the oil frequently.
 
The valve springs will need to be changed. Comp Cams 981's. 980's are stock pressure but they'll soften after a few WOT throttle blasts and you're back to square one again. The 981's are a slightly heavier spring and I've never seen any cam issues after swapping them for customers. One of the guys in NY should have a valve spring tool they can lend you. Throw new valve seals on it while you're at it.
 
Yeah condition wise she checks out. Just over 5k miles documented, bone dry, mild steel exhaust had a couple holes hence the GN1 full replacement, but otherwise she’s mint inside and out. Trying to do her justice.

Will add the timing chain/heat set to the list, any recommendations on brand? Seems single roller stock replacement is the way to go on this power level, would love billet.

The LT1 MAF and translator come as a kit or should I Frankenstein the parts together? I want to do this right.
 
The stock DC header will be cracked between the rear two cylinders. Look for a crack or repair. If it's cracked it'll have to be removed and repaired. Relax, it's a 2 beer job. Tell the welder it's mild stainless steel so he knows what he's got. If the two studs on the crossover snap go to your fav muffler shop and have them remove them and then get two studs and nuts from them.
 
Yeah condition wise she checks out. Just over 5k miles documented, bone dry, mild steel exhaust had a couple holes hence the GN1 full replacement, but otherwise she’s mint inside and out. Trying to do her justice.

Will add the timing chain/heat set to the list, any recommendations on brand? Seems single roller stock replacement is the way to go on this power level, would love billet.

The LT1 MAF and translator come as a kit or should I Frankenstein the parts together? I want to do this right.
Eric may sell both on his site...check it out. I ran stock junk for the timing chain/gears. Opions will vary. I THINK TA Performance sells a nice stock set.
 
If the nylon has chunks missing...they'll be in the oil pan and possibly stuck to the oil pickup screen. Oil pan will have to come down. If it hangs up, it's stuck on the crank counterweight. Slowly roll the engine over by hand and it'll fall down.
 
This isn't your daily driver...when it gets done it gets done. Myself and others will tell you not to mod it. Enjoy the car for what it is. If it ever needs transmission work, look no further than Dave Husek.
 
Turbotweak has the maf and the translator. As mentioned take it slow. You have some good basic things to check so far.
I would check the fuel line section back at the tank, it is rubber, may be a good idea to replace just that along with the filter. I have had accufab fuel pressure regulators leak after sitting, make sure it is good. Flush the fluid out of the power master, can't remember where the procedure is for that, but that is a must do.
 
Alright, I’m following along. Adding the MAF, translator, timing chain/gear, header repair, and lines/hoses. I’d be fine leaving the setup as is, but since that’s not an option I figured I’d go “warm” with the build, nothing too extreme. For instance I’m not aiming for a power level that will require a built trans and all.

Looks like my project just grew a couple grand but that’s the way the cookie crumbles. I love this thing, I want to reflect that in the build.
 
Alright, I’m following along. Adding the MAF, translator, timing chain/gear, header repair, and lines/hoses. I’d be fine leaving the setup as is, but since that’s not an option I figured I’d go “warm” with the build, nothing too extreme. For instance I’m not aiming for a power level that will require a built trans and all.

Looks like my project just grew a couple grand but that’s the way the cookie crumbles. I love this thing, I want to reflect that in the build.
From experience, I'd leave it as is other than what the guys have mentioned for the basics.
 
Top