Ok somewhat confused with boost control

Post a picture of your wastegate arm.

What I do is roll until I hit 3rd gear & then go to WOT. With my boost gauge I can see where it’s maxing out at & make adjustments up or down from there.

Again, patience. At a minimum get your Hotwire & fuel pump installed. Then adjust your fuel pressure(vacuum line off). Then you can start seeing where you’re boost is.

You don’t want to blow any head gaskets over an easy job.
If the stock wastegate is not adjustable then that’s what it is. I’m positive it was never changed out. No boost controller either.
 
Thanks. I get it. I’m just planning further and further ahead before I can even get to the car. Without a doubt the fuel pump, fpr, injectors, chip will be the first things I do. Hoping it won’t take more than a nice solid Saturday. But I’m going to take my time and try to not get mad.

Hahaha, not get mad at it, you’re funny!

If the stock wastegate is not adjustable then that’s what it is. I’m positive it was never changed out. No boost controller either.
One of the first things I did to my car in ‘87 was modify the wastegate actuator rod to make it adjustable like the kit available from Kenne-bell.

Someone may have modified it. If it has threads on it, it would be adjustable.
 
Hahaha, not get mad at it, you’re funny!


One of the first things I did to my car in ‘87 was modify the wastegate actuator rod to make it adjustable like the kit available from Kenne-bell.

Someone may have modified it. If it has threads on it, it would be adjustable.
Xanax and cigs should keep me calm but I’ve been known to throw things. My dad has had the car since new. Only things he did were put a new intake, test pipe, and a chip. 13 sec car. Used to feel strong though.
 
That is a good goal that could be very realistic.
You will need the transmission gone through for reliable 11 sec ets.
Hopefully within a few years will get the engine and trans pulled and engine bay detailed. Would like a black and chrome thing going on. At that time prob send it out to Husek.
 
Hopefully within a few years will get the engine and trans pulled and engine bay detailed. Would like a black and chrome thing going on. At that time prob send it out to Husek.
Dave is the best.
Great guy to deal with and has built my billet duel fed 200 in my nt/grudge car.
 
Xanax and cigs should keep me calm but I’ve been known to throw things. My dad has had the car since new. Only things he did were put a new intake, test pipe, and a chip. 13 sec car. Used to feel strong though.

It’s really cool you got it from your dad and know the history. Most don’t. You’re one of the lucky ones.
 
Don’t flame me. I’m going to do what I’m told first. Will get the fuel system ironed out and ordered all new vacuum hoses. Will continue to upgrade from there.

Anyway looking at a full rjc 3” system. What are my options for a cat. Undecided whether the car is going to get switched to antique tags in the future which would eliminate the sniff test. There technically are some cons to doing that but Would like to pick up a cat just in case needed. What are my options?
 
I would get the antique tags. No downside beside mileage(depending on your states rules). Here in CO plates are good for 5 years 5,000 miles a year limit. HOWEVER they have no idea of how many miles you drive. Nor have they checked.

We still need to do emissions every 5 years though. I got the Magnaflow 93439(doubled in price since I bought mine)but that’s a 2-1/2”. Fits perfect. I’ll just need to get a 3” opening welded on to match my 3” DP & I use Eric’s emissions chip.

So if there’s no need to run a cat don’t. Just run the 3” down & test pipes to Jason’s 3” exhaust.
 
Car has Delaware black tag on it now which is desirable here and rarely available anymore. Kinda don’t want to lose the tag. From my understanding no sniff test here if antiqued. But I think the mileage limit is low but really not enforced. It looks like rjc had some flanges for a 3” cat?? Would welding one onto the cat mentioned work?
 
The Magnaflow one is a perfect fit. It goes in place of the test pipe, & matches up to exhaust. A.K.A. Fits just like stock. That’s why I chose that one.

Depending on your circumstances you’d just have to change the opening size where it connects to the DP. Otherwise it should connect to the rest of the exhaust fine. Obviously double check with Jason to be sure.
 
Yeah I’ve been emailing questions to him (and different vendors for things). Prob would just be easier to start calling.

I really appreciate the help fellas.
 
Ok was told to use a 12” universal and I assume would have to weld a 3” cat flange on the cat back end but I’ll be damned if I can find a universal 12” with 3” pipe diameter. Any ideas?
 
Looking into it magnaflow has a few 3” cats that overall length is around 13” with the cat body of 9”. I’m sure a exhaust shop could prob fab up something with that.
 
Turbos don't like back pressure. I had Jasons 3 inch externally gated downpipe on my car with his cat delete pipe on my car with an ATR 3 inch dual exhaust mated to it. Way to much thinking going on around here. It was all plug and play...just like everything else on my car. Buick owners love to struggle.
 
Turbos don't like back pressure. I had Jasons 3 inch externally gated downpipe on my car with his cat delete pipe on my car with an ATR 3 inch dual exhaust mated to it. Way to much thinking going on around here. It was all plug and play...just like everything else on my car. Buick owners love to struggle.
I would love to just run a test pipe. But in the end it’s my dads decision. Don’t know if he plans on antique tagging the car or not. I think he should so I don’t have to worry about this but you know how them elderly are…. ;)
 
I would love to just run a test pipe. But in the end it’s my dads decision. Don’t know if he plans on antique tagging the car or not. I think he should so I don’t have to worry about this but you know how them elderly are…. ;)
If you go with a cat...pound out the honeycomb on the inside of it.
 
2.5" pipes exhaust , test pipe no cat, 3" dp
will take you where ever you need to go 14s down to 9s
 
Just going through my stuff and noticed the boost gauge doesn’t come with a T to join into a line. I think I’m going to tap the line at the map sensor. Is it just a regular old plastic 1/4” T? And what size soft tubing is needed to join them together?
 
Top