Newbie alert. Moonroof question.

Well spoke to my transmission "guru". He advised that our 200 4R's are not the most robust transmissions and require a specialist to replace the most vulnerable parts with better. He agreed that slow shifting is one sign of wear and wear on a 110,000 mile tranny under a worked motor is not a surprise. Will get the ball rolling with Dave in coming weeks. Looks like he is in Long Island? He also said a line lock might help the launch. He thought that trying to hold back the converter with rear brakes could cause them to come unglued. Bigger converter might help that too. He thought also a sloppy shift from 1-2 could be at least part of the terrible 60 ft time problem. I will update this when things happen. Thanks again to all for your help
Call Dave Husek, he built many of my transmissions you wont find a more knowledgeable guy on the 2004r, hes in Freeport Long Island if your from the area.
 
Line lock for burnout and some stick cars use it to keep from rolling through the light. You standing on the brake will hold the backs from turning and your 215 on the front will help fold it in place.
nope,ive been 1.4 on drag radials with a ta49 right off the footbrake.my current car will run 5 sec 1/8s right off the footbrake
I would like to have a number like that
 
Line lock for burnout and some stick cars use it to keep from rolling through the light. You standing on the brake will hold the backs from turning and your 215 on the front will help fold it in place.

I would like to have a number like that
shoot me a pm.see what we can do ;)
 
Yes the 1-2 shift happens after the 60 foot
Do we know why your TPS is not flat? Garbage in garage out.
 
Yes the 1-2 shift happens after the 60 foot
Do we know why your TPS is not flat? Garbage in garage out.
Unsure why the tps is not flat. I am not sure what effect that would have on anything though. Dave Husek will be rebuilding the tranny in the next couple of weeks. Will probably try some 1/4 mile runs later in the summer or early fall.
 
shoot me a pm.see what we can do ;)
So I am going to have the tranny redone in coming weeks. Dave is suggesting a different convertor to deal with the problem noted earlier where I was going through the lights before I could build boost. So today I decided to test if I just wasn't holding the brakes hard enough. I took it to an empty parking lot and "stood on the brakes" Result =
 
So I am going to have the tranny redone in coming weeks. Dave is suggesting a different convertor to deal with the problem noted earlier where I was going through the lights before I could build boost. So today I decided to test if I just wasn't holding the brakes hard enough. I took it to an empty parking lot and "stood on the brakes" Result =
Reply launched prematurely there. As I was saying Result = car reached 2,900 rpm's and 5 psi of boost first time. I let off. Second time I kept going and same result except pushing it just beyond 2,900 the wheels started to spin. Just about right for a 2,900 rated convertor?
 
Reply launched prematurely there. As I was saying Result = car reached 2,900 rpm's and 5 psi of boost first time. I let off. Second time I kept going and same result except pushing it just beyond 2,900 the wheels started to spin. Just about right for a 2,900 rated convertor?
Error - It's a 2,800 rated convertor as indicated in my sig,
 
As an example the AC 16930 I had in my car was rated at 2800 RPM...but I could get it to flash to 3500-3950 depending on how hard I wanted to launch it. On Erics default settings...you could get out and run faster. Dial in low gear fuel and low gear timing...and it was a different convertor altogether. As Grumpy would say...it's all in the tuna. ;)
 
Depends what the convertor 'flashed' too.
Not sure what you mean. I stood on the brakes as hard as I could and slowly added the throttle. At 2900 rpm's boost gauge was showing 5 psi. Adding (slowly) just a tiny bit more and the wheels spun so I let off. I know that convertors don't stall at exactly their stated stall speed. I know it depends on rear gears, vehicle weight, engine poser, etc. etc. But I was wondering if this behavior indicates the need for something different or if that is fairly typical. I thought there was something wrong at the track Saturday when I ran through the light before I cold reach boost but no I think I just wasn't pushing the pedal hard enough.
 
So I am going to have the tranny redone in coming weeks. Dave is suggesting a different convertor to deal with the problem noted earlier where I was going through the lights before I could build boost. So today I decided to test if I just wasn't holding the brakes hard enough. I took it to an empty parking lot and "stood on the brakes" Result =
So a good 60ft is achieved by leaving 9n power and not spinning.some do it on higher rpm low boost,some higher boost lower rpm.your low rpm low boost.so you car has to climb up to power,which equals a soft 60ft.
 
Not sure what you mean. I stood on the brakes as hard as I could and slowly added the throttle. At 2900 rpm's boost gauge was showing 5 psi. Adding (slowly) just a tiny bit more and the wheels spun so I let off. I know that convertors don't stall at exactly their stated stall speed. I know it depends on rear gears, vehicle weight, engine poser, etc. etc. But I was wondering if this behavior indicates the need for something different or if that is fairly typical. I thought there was something wrong at the track Saturday when I ran through the light before I cold reach boost but no I think I just wasn't pushing the pedal hard enough.
Usually after the burnout your brakes will get hot and it's easier to push through.pump then 3 times before you run next time and do a light burnout only on a drag radial.if you do no burnout then its driver error.
 
Usually after the burnout your brakes will get hot and it's easier to push through.pump then 3 times before you run next time and do a light burnout only on a drag radial.if you do no burnout then its driver error.
So if brake revving is the launch of choice and at 2900 the car will move then that’s the best I can do unless there is a better technique with turbo cars. Correct?
 
With line lock, the rear brakes are released so they stay cold during the burn out. If the brakes are cold, they'll have more holding power. I have a vid on line lock...and you don't have to cut the brake lines. I got it from Jack Cotton a long time ago. You can make your own. All you need is a roll control unit, and drop by a car parts place and bend a pre made brake line. I used an ashtray switch to engage/disengage it.
 
With line lock, the rear brakes are released so they stay cold during the burn out. If the brakes are cold, they'll have more holding power. I have a vid on line lock...and you don't have to cut the brake lines. I got it from Jack Cotton a long time ago. You can make your own. All you need is a roll control unit, and drop by a car parts place and bend a pre made brake line. I used an ashtray switch to engage/disengage it.
You beat me to it lol
 
Here's a pic. of how easy it is to install, then bleed. You can do it much neater as well.

DSCN0070 (1).JPG
 
Top