Cummins Turbo Diesel fans?

All the tuners now you can out back to stock but they still leave the print

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Let me try to summarize “some” what I have learned in the last 3 weeks about the CTD.

I am interested in a balance based approach within the constraint for reliability, with increased torque below the weakest link, and better gas mileage. Let’s face it, the truck has plenty of torque to do what I need to do in stock form. If you belief increased power and MPG are in conflict on a factory CTD, read below.

CTD
The 5.9 (Head gaskets) handles cylinder pressures better because of the smaller bore.
The 6.7 requires studs if you are really going to push the envelope. Stock levels, it is fine.
Both of these can make tremendous power with the right parts, tune, and mass flow.

Turbo
The 2012 model (for sure) has a build in exhaust brake (EB) which is accomplished with the variable vane turbo. It uses a sliding ring (venture) to reduce exhaust flow. (ECM controlled)
Many are having issues with this and the best option for this turbo is the exercise the EB regularly to prevent “buildup and sticking”.

Fueling;
Pending the year, most of the fuel is injected ATDC (Think about that for a sec. LOL) I suspect this was primarily done to decrease NOx for emission mandates.
To increase power and reduce EGT, injection event must be BTDC. Inject more fuel (Available energy), more torque. There is little question about “cleaner fuel is better” and a 5 micron rated filter or better is recommended by Cummins. I believe the stock Bosh CP3 injection pump is good to a safe 500 HP / 1000 lbft

Air box;
On stock performance levels, the stock air box and filter are not a restriction. Aftermarket systems obviously flow much more. Not sure if I “need” this.

Intake Horn.
Aftermarket units easily outflow the stock unit. Just like any set-up it’s the combination that matters. Still searching for the order of constraints.
In the TR world, we know >90% of it. IOW: We know you need to do XYZ to make XXX HP. On a CTD, I am not so clear “yet”.

Transmission
At stock levels, transmission works fine and is not really “weak”. The 68RFE was available in the 2500, and the Aisin was only available in the 3500. Manual transmissions were available in both, but automatic transmission was rated for more torque (Torque multiplication?) Depending on the amount of performance, pressures and timing need to be adjusted, or VB replaced for increased pressures, along with a few parts to make the transmission live. From my research, it appears that 100HP appears to be the threshold before breaking stuff. Increasing transmission pressure is ALWAYS an advantage.
Great info on transmission;
https://youtu.be/dLOt5yy0d40

To delete or not to delete;
There are many discussions about “to delete or not to delete”, and “to flash, or not to flash”.
Most of the “not to” are from owners that have warranty and clearly, should not be done under warranty if foot print will be left.
The EGR on the 2012 allowed RAM to meet emission standards, but also created a host of other reliability issues, UNLESS serviced frequently. I have personally never been a fan of sending soot through the intake, although I realize this works. The 2012 is pre-DEF and the regen systems have been put in place to keep it on the road.

To add to my objective;
I am looking at MM# or RaceMe. EFI life has a lot of followers, but an EFI live tune cannot be reversed in the field. Systems such as MM3, RaceMe, Smarty, etc can be reverted back to the stock setting and overwritten in the field.
 
Here is a screenshot of the Raceme desktop interface.
 

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Let me try to summarize “some” what I have learned in the last 3 weeks about the CTD.

I am interested in a balance based approach within the constraint for reliability, with increased torque below the weakest link, and better gas mileage. Let’s face it, the truck has plenty of torque to do what I need to do in stock form. If you belief increased power and MPG are in conflict on a factory CTD, read below.

CTD
The 5.9 (Head gaskets) handles cylinder pressures better because of the smaller bore.
The 6.7 requires studs if you are really going to push the envelope. Stock levels, it is fine.
Both of these can make tremendous power with the right parts, tune, and mass flow.

Turbo
The 2012 model (for sure) has a build in exhaust brake (EB) which is accomplished with the variable vane turbo. It uses a sliding ring (venture) to reduce exhaust flow. (ECM controlled)
Many are having issues with this and the best option for this turbo is the exercise the EB regularly to prevent “buildup and sticking”.

Fueling;
Pending the year, most of the fuel is injected ATDC (Think about that for a sec. LOL) I suspect this was primarily done to decrease NOx for emission mandates.
To increase power and reduce EGT, injection event must be BTDC. Inject more fuel (Available energy), more torque. There is little question about “cleaner fuel is better” and a 5 micron rated filter or better is recommended by Cummins. I believe the stock Bosh CP3 injection pump is good to a safe 500 HP / 1000 lbft

Air box;
On stock performance levels, the stock air box and filter are not a restriction. Aftermarket systems obviously flow much more. Not sure if I “need” this.

Intake Horn.
Aftermarket units easily outflow the stock unit. Just like any set-up it’s the combination that matters. Still searching for the order of constraints.
In the TR world, we know >90% of it. IOW: We know you need to do XYZ to make XXX HP. On a CTD, I am not so clear “yet”.

Transmission
At stock levels, transmission works fine and is not really “weak”. The 68RFE was available in the 2500, and the Aisin was only available in the 3500. Manual transmissions were available in both, but automatic transmission was rated for more torque (Torque multiplication?) Depending on the amount of performance, pressures and timing need to be adjusted, or VB replaced for increased pressures, along with a few parts to make the transmission live. From my research, it appears that 100HP appears to be the threshold before breaking stuff. Increasing transmission pressure is ALWAYS an advantage.
Great info on transmission;
https://youtu.be/dLOt5yy0d40

To delete or not to delete;
There are many discussions about “to delete or not to delete”, and “to flash, or not to flash”.
Most of the “not to” are from owners that have warranty and clearly, should not be done under warranty if foot print will be left.
The EGR on the 2012 allowed RAM to meet emission standards, but also created a host of other reliability issues, UNLESS serviced frequently. I have personally never been a fan of sending soot through the intake, although I realize this works. The 2012 is pre-DEF and the regen systems have been put in place to keep it on the road.

To add to my objective;
I am looking at MM# or RaceMe. EFI life has a lot of followers, but an EFI live tune cannot be reversed in the field. Systems such as MM3, RaceMe, Smarty, etc can be reverted back to the stock setting and overwritten in the field.
I'll get back to you but efi live can be put back to stock in the field with the 5 position switch.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
hey boost231 what you think about the 7.3 ford my best friend had one with a stick it was bullet proof went for 300K till needed work a lot of low end torque when were pulling the big boat
 
Let me try to summarize “some” what I have learned in the last 3 weeks about the CTD.

I am interested in a balance based approach within the constraint for reliability, with increased torque below the weakest link, and better gas mileage. Let’s face it, the truck has plenty of torque to do what I need to do in stock form. If you belief increased power and MPG are in conflict on a factory CTD, read below.

CTD
The 5.9 (Head gaskets) handles cylinder pressures better because of the smaller bore.
The 6.7 requires studs if you are really going to push the envelope. Stock levels, it is fine.
Both of these can make tremendous power with the right parts, tune, and mass flow.

Turbo
The 2012 model (for sure) has a build in exhaust brake (EB) which is accomplished with the variable vane turbo. It uses a sliding ring (venture) to reduce exhaust flow. (ECM controlled)
Many are having issues with this and the best option for this turbo is the exercise the EB regularly to prevent “buildup and sticking”.

Fueling;
Pending the year, most of the fuel is injected ATDC (Think about that for a sec. LOL) I suspect this was primarily done to decrease NOx for emission mandates.
To increase power and reduce EGT, injection event must be BTDC. Inject more fuel (Available energy), more torque. There is little question about “cleaner fuel is better” and a 5 micron rated filter or better is recommended by Cummins. I believe the stock Bosh CP3 injection pump is good to a safe 500 HP / 1000 lbft

Air box;
On stock performance levels, the stock air box and filter are not a restriction. Aftermarket systems obviously flow much more. Not sure if I “need” this.

Intake Horn.
Aftermarket units easily outflow the stock unit. Just like any set-up it’s the combination that matters. Still searching for the order of constraints.
In the TR world, we know >90% of it. IOW: We know you need to do XYZ to make XXX HP. On a CTD, I am not so clear “yet”.

Transmission
At stock levels, transmission works fine and is not really “weak”. The 68RFE was available in the 2500, and the Aisin was only available in the 3500. Manual transmissions were available in both, but automatic transmission was rated for more torque (Torque multiplication?) Depending on the amount of performance, pressures and timing need to be adjusted, or VB replaced for increased pressures, along with a few parts to make the transmission live. From my research, it appears that 100HP appears to be the threshold before breaking stuff. Increasing transmission pressure is ALWAYS an advantage.
Great info on transmission;
https://youtu.be/dLOt5yy0d40

To delete or not to delete;
There are many discussions about “to delete or not to delete”, and “to flash, or not to flash”.
Most of the “not to” are from owners that have warranty and clearly, should not be done under warranty if foot print will be left.
The EGR on the 2012 allowed RAM to meet emission standards, but also created a host of other reliability issues, UNLESS serviced frequently. I have personally never been a fan of sending soot through the intake, although I realize this works. The 2012 is pre-DEF and the regen systems have been put in place to keep it on the road.

To add to my objective;
I am looking at MM# or RaceMe. EFI life has a lot of followers, but an EFI live tune cannot be reversed in the field. Systems such as MM3, RaceMe, Smarty, etc can be reverted back to the stock setting and overwritten in the field.
nice post Jerryl goes ill have to catch up on my cummins stuff, but been focused on these TR's LOL was into my truck for a while and then things switched bc of no problems with the ole truck
 
Cummins is certainly the best engine out of the 3. They should of left it a marine engine like it was first used for decades rather than waste it in a Dodge. Although I suppose you could yank it out and use the body and the rest of the drive train for an expensive boat anchor. Why GM and Ford didn't use this engine is beyond me.
 
everything badass comes from marine use first thats the nature of the beast ,
 
hey boost231 what you think about the 7.3 ford my best friend had one with a stick it was bullet proof went for 300K till needed work a lot of low end torque when were pulling the big boat

i would never own a ford truck. had one friends have had them and well lets just say i would sell it before it breaks
 
nice post Jerryl goes ill have to catch up on my cummins stuff, but been focused on these TR's LOL was into my truck for a while and then things switched bc of no problems with the ole truck
Thanks man. Still learning.
Easy to get side tracked in both focus and budget by a TR. LOL
 
i would never own a ford truck. had one friends have had them and well lets just say i would sell it before it breaks
I had a chance to purchase a clean low mile, 1 owner, 2000 dually 7.3 F***
Granted it probably needed to be serviced, but it lacked the pulling power with a 10K lb trailer. It's a great engine, but it wasn't what I really wanted, or looking for.
 
nice read thx jerryl ,
glad my 5.9 doesn't have an actual egr valve, the EGR system on the 5.9 didnt start until 04.5 when they changed the camshaft profile and introduced 3rd injection event....camshaft profile closes exhaust valve easrlier to hold in exhaust gases to produce an "in cylinder egr" basically its built into the camshaft from what ive read.
 
nice read thx jerryl ,
glad my 5.9 doesn't have an actual egr valve, the EGR system on the 5.9 didnt start until 04.5 when they changed the camshaft profile and introduced 3rd injection event....camshaft profile closes exhaust valve easrlier to hold in exhaust gases to produce an "in cylinder egr" basically its built into the camshaft from what ive read.
I would take that 5.9 12v any day over the newer versions, mechanical pump and no electronics other than what, the fuel shutoff. If I strike the mega-billions I'm getting one bullet proof rebuilt with a bit added power and putting it in an early K-5 Blazer. Too bad they didn't raise the cetane rating when they switched to the low sulfur crap.
Friend has a 2014 and the engine compartment is so tight they should of put quick releases on the body to lift it for easy access. Another had one he bought new in 90(?)and could hear him coming 10 miles down the road. After about 10-12 years it was still running like new but he could of doubled for Fred Flintstone with his feet hanging out of the floorboards. Think he got tetanus shots every month with all the rust.
 
The dealer straightened out the tune and truck runs much better. Still waiting for info on the tune. It feels like it pulls endlessly, even at 8K lbs. Lol.

Getting a hand calculated around 17.6 mpg at 68 mph, empty. I think there is a little more in it with some fine tuning.

Need do my own tuning!
 
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