Garage Advice new Build

I can't wait to see your garage once its completed, I'm sure it will be nice. Well, as for lifts you should consider looking at an Atlas lift. My buddy bought an Atlas lift in the spring and it's just as good as a Benpak and it will only set you back $1,800
 
Well I spoke to my builder and there are at least a dozen reasons I have 11' ceilings and we cant change it, biggest one is the matching roof line since we are tying into the existing house.

I will look into Atlas thanks
 
As far as lift height goes , you need 12' to clear the top cross bar of the lift . If the roof trusses go parallel to the lift , center the lift between the trusses . If it's perpendicular to the trusses see if they can step up the bottom of the truss to clear the top cross bar just where the lift is . Your car will be over a foot short of hitting the safety stop at full extension anyways .

If the lift is near a garage door , you can have the standard tracks raised to about a foot from the ceiling . That's what I did and you can see the 2 different door track heights in the pic . If you want a electric door opener get a side mount .

As for lighting go with LED . I have 9 48" lights in my 30'x30' garage and is very well lit . If the lift is near a wall , position over head lights so you don't have a dark side when the car is lifted blocking light .

Mount electric outlets on the wall just above 48" so when you stand plywood up or anything else you can still get to them
DSCN0641.JPGDSCN0642.JPGDSCN0643.JPG
 
Use the big ass lights same company that sells the big ass fans I think they have like a 20-year warranty and will light up the countryside
 
kirban 2 cents worth

way back in 1970 when we bought our lst house it had 2 1/2 bays attached before moving in had a contractor build a 5 bay garage back then it was ten grand with concrete floors and I think 7ft wide doors....then about 13 years ago we moved up north alittle new house one floor built and I had a 30 by 50 pole building built.... 2 small garage doors on the 50 ft side and one I think 16 ft window door on the 30 ft side 12 ft ceiling so lift fit perfectly think its a rotary lift works great.

other tricks my kid who is super smart mounted the entire heater assembly in the ceiling so no floor space is waste floors are painted to cut down dirt....I got a panel truck out back and small shed for all useless junk so nothing is in my building cept small work table and tools and my limited skills mostly detailing...

side door has a cat door so my security cats can stay inside at nite (down to 2 cats now)....rodents are no issue as the cats do their job for room and board and of course 2 sq meals a day

driveway circles the pole building so you never have to back up....narrowest point is probably 12/14 feet 30 by 50 works out great with I think I can get 6 cars in there

main thing is buy a junk van so you can put all the other stuff in the van and not take up room in your building....

denniskirban@yahoo.com

oh yes I did have a artist come in and paint almost full size a GNX on the one wall at the time I had 2 GNXs in the building for him to look at cost me several grand...also when the concrete floor was being laid we dropped in a GN emblem in the center....I did the same at the old house only with a GTO emblem in the floor kinda like the egyptains did so generations later will wonder who lived there....gotta think ahead if you plan to do it in the concrete floor. In the 1970s and 1980s I was heavily into the GTO business just as well known in that world as the Turbo Regal world today

Somehow I lucked out and picked two winners in the GM muscle car family....
 
As far as lift height goes , you need 12' to clear the top cross bar of the lift . If the roof trusses go parallel to the lift , center the lift between the trusses . If it's perpendicular to the trusses see if they can step up the bottom of the truss to clear the top cross bar just where the lift is . Your car will be over a foot short of hitting the safety stop at full extension anyways .

If the lift is near a garage door , you can have the standard tracks raised to about a foot from the ceiling . That's what I did and you can see the 2 different door track heights in the pic . If you want a electric door opener get a side mount .

As for lighting go with LED . I have 9 48" lights in my 30'x30' garage and is very well lit . If the lift is near a wall , position over head lights so you don't have a dark side when the car is lifted blocking light .

Mount electric outlets on the wall just above 48" so when you stand plywood up or anything else you can still get to them
View attachment 330941View attachment 330942View attachment 330943
Thanks, good info.

The lift is going to be in the back of the garage and it is 40' deep so I will be plenty far away from the door. I thought about sinking the lift into the ceiling like that but really no need with the low profile lifts I will just have to be careful lifting my truck. Another buddy mentioned Scissor trusses but unfortunately I think the trusses are already ordered and will be here by the end of next week. Plus they are significantly more expensive and I have to watch the costs on this thing, real estate values in Youngstown Oh are not the greatest so this is NOT the best financial decision I've made in my lifetime lol!!

I will plan to mount the outlets at 48".

I have four 8' fluorescent T8 lights in my current garage which light it up pretty well and they have not been converted to LED. I was thinking of going with the same set up but with LED light strips Home Depot has 8' tandem lights for $80 each which come with the LED bulbs.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/EnviroL...-with-T8-LED-5000K-Tubes-ST704T1850/300380331

How many do you think I will need for a 30x40, I was thinking 8 total?

I like those Big Ass lights but they also have a Big Ass price tag at $400 for 4' 13k lumen light. The 8' tandem strip lights at HD are 7200 lumens for $80 so five of them will be 36k lumens for the same money. Unless I am looking at this the wrong way?

Check out these tool boxes, these guys are a little over an hour away from me so I am planning to take a ride out tand look at them. They would look killer in the new shop just hope they are built decent. I am looking at the red 9.6" work bench with 15 drawers and two end cabinets. Price is right!
https://www.stephensattachments.com/toolboxes
 
kirban 2 cents worth

way back in 1970 when we bought our lst house it had 2 1/2 bays attached before moving in had a contractor build a 5 bay garage back then it was ten grand with concrete floors and I think 7ft wide doors....then about 13 years ago we moved up north alittle new house one floor built and I had a 30 by 50 pole building built.... 2 small garage doors on the 50 ft side and one I think 16 ft window door on the 30 ft side 12 ft ceiling so lift fit perfectly think its a rotary lift works great.

other tricks my kid who is super smart mounted the entire heater assembly in the ceiling so no floor space is waste floors are painted to cut down dirt....I got a panel truck out back and small shed for all useless junk so nothing is in my building cept small work table and tools and my limited skills mostly detailing...

side door has a cat door so my security cats can stay inside at nite (down to 2 cats now)....rodents are no issue as the cats do their job for room and board and of course 2 sq meals a day

driveway circles the pole building so you never have to back up....narrowest point is probably 12/14 feet 30 by 50 works out great with I think I can get 6 cars in there

main thing is buy a junk van so you can put all the other stuff in the van and not take up room in your building....

denniskirban@yahoo.com

oh yes I did have a artist come in and paint almost full size a GNX on the one wall at the time I had 2 GNXs in the building for him to look at cost me several grand...also when the concrete floor was being laid we dropped in a GN emblem in the center....I did the same at the old house only with a GTO emblem in the floor kinda like the egyptains did so generations later will wonder who lived there....gotta think ahead if you plan to do it in the concrete floor. In the 1970s and 1980s I was heavily into the GTO business just as well known in that world as the Turbo Regal world today

Somehow I lucked out and picked two winners in the GM muscle car family....
Pics of the GNX mural and shop please!

I have a 75k BTU Modine heater mounted on the ceiling of my current garage and from what I can tell 75k is going to be plenty to heat both the old and new space which will be about 1800 sqft total? Any HVAC experts?
 
4000psi fiber reinforced concrete, no steel or mesh needed, one saw cut 40' long and one 30' wide with a level subgrade and 20yrs from now you will still be grin'in like a dog with 2 dicks... :D
 
Pics of the GNX mural and shop please!

I have a 75k BTU Modine heater mounted on the ceiling of my current garage and from what I can tell 75k is going to be plenty to heat both the old and new space which will be about 1800 sqft total? Any HVAC experts?

I don't know how to post photos send me personal email denniskirban@yahoo.com would have wife email me photo of the gnx mural and my pole bldg inside denniskirban@yahoo.com
 
4000psi fiber reinforced concrete, no steel or mesh needed, one saw cut 40' long and one 30' wide with a level subgrade and 20yrs from now you will still be grin'in like a dog with 2 dicks... :D
Thanks, Would I still need to be 6" thick under the two post lift?

Also, I am planning to put a trench drain in the floor. I was going to put it closer to the front of the garage maybe 10' in and slope the floor from the back and front toward the drain. This way I can wash cars inside or let snow melt off them etc. With a 40' length do you think 10' is enough or should I move it closer to the center of the garage?

I think I am just going to use a good sealer on the floor and not go with the epoxy. Here is what I am looking at
https://ghostshield.com/product/siloxa-tek-8510/
 
Well just saw this I’m currently having my new garage built. I had a previous garage 24x20 could barely hold both my Buick’s in there. New garage will be 1500 sq ft with an upstairs loft. There is going to be a lift on the right with 13ft ceiling. Then drop down to a 8ft Ceiling on the left. My garage is built into a hill I had to get 36” footers poured hole hell of a lot of dirt moved and barely any room to move around it. 12” block all the way up and (2) 16”psl beams spanning across to hold up the 2nd floor. My plans call for stone bed then vapor barrier and 4” concrete. Most lifts are rated about 9000lbs anything over 12k needs more than 4” of concrete. 3500psi is pretty much the standard everybody uses around here. I have #5 rebar through out the walls and three bars put into the 12” footers. They sit them on chairs and tie them in. With all the building code issues this garage will be build better than my house!! I can’t get pictures up at the moment damn Tapatalk.


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Very nice that thing can double as a bomb shelter! What's the final size going to be and do you think it will be done?

Block guys are supposed to start Monday but unfortunately we have freezing rain and snow for weather right now.

I am going to have a lot of dirt too. I have to cut a small hillside back to make room. Fortunately my neighbor's yard is really low and floods a lot so we are going to bring in a full size bulldozer and regrade both yards so I won't have to remove any dirt and we will fix his flooding issue. Just have to re-seed a lot of grass.
 
Stefan - your Bomb Shelter is looking good :)
FWIW - I put a 9000# 2-post lift in my pole building with 10 ft ceiling. It is not ideal [and was not part of the original plan], but allows for minor project work and - most importantly for me - double storage.
The lift stated that 4" of 3500# concrete was needed, no footers.
So8vhgAl.jpg


Good luck with your garage.
 
Very nice that thing can double as a bomb shelter! What's the final size going to be and do you think it will be done?

The pad size is 36’ x 28’ I’m not sure when it should be done. The block work doesn’t take long but getting the beams in right now is taking a bit. Also there is still a lot of dirt that needs to be moved. So the back walls are getting stuccoed and tar for the block below grade. Then has to be inspected. Then the dirt pile can be back filled against the block. The electric tubing has been installed going underground. No plumbing allowed unless the garage is attached to the house.
I had to get this started quickly due to the zoning regulations were changing on Oct 1st. Would much prefer having this started in March.




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