Dual Feed Direct Clutch 2-3 shift binding

chevellejoe

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Need some help. I recently performed the dual feed direct clutch modification to my 200-4R and now I have a slight bind between 2-3 shift. I have been increasing the orifice but it doesn't seem to be going away. I'm up to .145 and still have the bind up. Is this too much or should I keep going? Chris at CK is absolutely no help. Called and left messages multiple times. Even stopped at his shop during normal a business day to found out he was closed. Wish I never used his parts.

Quick background;

About 2 years ago I rebuilt the transmission following CK performance tech manual using all the parts below from CK performance. After, I noticed my 2-3 was a bit soft. Chris at CK had me install his billet servo and it helped a little. Later I added some more performance mods to the motor and installed a set of slicks. That's when I noticed I have a flare up issue between 2-3 shift. Took the transmission apart to diagnose and found the orifice on the valve body spacer plate was already drilled to .110. This was new from his recalibration kit. It never said I need to perform the dual feed direct clutch modification in order to use it. So since I had it apart I performed the modification, which bring me to this issue.

Shift recalibration Kit #24RSRK/A
Steel Billet Forward Drum 24RCC/BFD
Pro Street Billet Servo 24RCC/PSBISA
High Output oil pump assembly 24RCC/RHOP-A
Complete clutch and band kit from CK.


Also is it normal for the spacer plate to case gasket bridge two oil passages? #12 Drive 4 and #9 Governor. I attached a picture. The L shape on the gasket allows oil to cross over in that area.
 

Attachments

  • 54320B.jpg
    54320B.jpg
    27.1 KB · Views: 98
  • IMG_0061.jpg
    IMG_0061.jpg
    513.5 KB · Views: 135
The gasket gap is correct. The drive 4 oil becomes governor oil after passing through that controlled passage. There's also a small orifice in the plate that supplements it but CK deletes it on his plate.

If you want a 2-3 shift that works and lasts you should call Dave Husek. Send him the parts he asks for and install it all as delivered back to you.
 
Yep it was part of the recalibration kit. I even went though the entire kit again, step by step to verify everything was installed correctly.


Definitely will give Dave a call. From the post I read about him, he sounds like reliable guy.
 
I have found Chris sets up his billet servos with too much clearance. I tightened mine up and shifts better.
 
I'm dealing with a (dual feed) 2/3 shift that's hard to describe. Couldn't call it a flare because RPM doesn't increase during the shift however anything under 3/8 throttle feels weird 95 percent of the time. There seems to be a momentary bump at band release and 3 engages softly....a millisecond of delay but no RPM increase on logs.

Every once in a while it will shift correctly so that leads me to believe rather than calibration there is a valve hanging a little somewhere.
 
About 2 years ago I rebuilt the transmission following CK performance tech manual using all the parts below from CK performance.
This is the cause of your problem and I'm sure you will never make this mistake again.

I recently performed the dual feed direct clutch modification to my 200-4R and now I have a slight bind between 2-3 shift.
Did you Install stronger direct clutch return springs? Did you install a stronger than stock servo return spring/the small spring. Is the bind more noticeable at wot or minimum throttle?
 
This is the cause of your problem and I'm sure you will never make this mistake again.
Yeah learned my lesson.

Did you Install stronger direct clutch return springs? Did you install a stronger than stock servo return spring/the small spring. Is the bind more noticeable at wot or minimum throttle?
Negative on the return springs. The servo has the stock spring. More bind at minimum throttle.


I called Dave Husek, probably just going to have him go through it.
 
Negative on the return springs. The servo has the stock spring. More bind at minimum throttle. .
First of all,dual feeding isn't necessarily necessary. For instance,I have a 700 hp engine in front of my 2004r and it isn't dual fed,it doesn't have the 3-2 mod,and it has a completely stock/unmodified separator plate.
When dual feeding is implemented,the 3rd gear clutches apply faster which causes it to bind (usually at mild throttle openings).
The 3 options we have,to get rid of the bind,are to slow down the direct/3rd gear clutch apply with stronger direct clutch return springs,speed up the release of the 2nd gear band with the 3-2 mod,or speed up the release of the band with a stronger servo return spring. The first 2 modifications usually get the job done,especially if you use a stock servo which I recommend. The problem with the larger apply area of the aftermarket servo is that it slows down the release of the band. When the third gear oil comes up to the back side of the servo piston,to release the band,it now has equal oil pressure on the apply and release sides of the servo piston. The reason that the piston moves in the direction to release the band,during a 2-3 upshift with equal amounts of pressure on each side of it,is because the servo pistons area is greater on the release side of the piston than it is on the apply side. The greater the area being acted upon,the greater the force. Since we increase the diameter of the apply side of the piston,on an aftermarket servo,and leave the diameter of the release side the same as stock,there isn't as much of a difference in area between the 2 sides. Because of this,the band releases at a slower rate. We can easily speed it up with a stronger servo return spring.
Dave will have everything you need and good tech support and a billet drum that doesn't wobble if necessary.
 
[QUOTE="chevellejoe, post: 3812134, member: 33451"


I called Dave Husek, probably just going to have him go through it.[/QUOTE]

Your best bet, he's local and a good guy/great builder-helped me a ton over the years-
 
Top